Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

Inverter fitted

PS- the mastervolt manual also states:

"The earth wire offers protection only if the inverter cabinet is connected to the earth. Connect the inverters earth terminal (at the right hand side of the AC terminal block) to the hull or chassis."
 
AndyCook said:
"The earth wire offers protection only if the inverter cabinet is connected to the earth. Connect the inverters earth terminal (at the right hand side of the AC terminal block) to the hull or chassis."
Does that mean you can just connect a wire from the case to the negative from the battery? (see blue below) Surely that would be better than the chassis and easier.
mastervolt%20mass%20sine%2012-500%202.jpg
 
Andy, this is called 'neutralising'. Most electrical companies connect the nueutral to earth at the consumer's meter somewhere and also at the transformer in all electrical distribution systems. Then the earth points are all connected to a system of buried earth mats or tapes to literally 'earth' the potential and provide a good quality low resistance earth connection. So in reality in an installation, neutral and earth are at 0V and thus the same potential. They are kept separate for safety reasons and occassionally neutrals can 'have' or 'acquire' a small voltage, particularly in 3 phase installations.

In your case the N and E should be connected together at the inverter, in theory, and then this connection point should be run to ground. If you want to be safe, get an earth rod in a wholesaler and a piece of earth wire, say 6mm2, and each time you park up to use the inverter, hammer your spike into the ground with the earth wire clamped to it. (this might be appropriate if you are parked up for a day or two but would be a bit unrealistic if you are only stopping for lunch). There's no real way of doing any better than this and the better the earth connection the more reliable the tripping will be on the RCD. You could connect to a wire fence or something if that was convenient using a clamp of sorts. Either way, it is a method of getting an earth connection of some description. I'd like to know how the original users do it in the vans they use. If you are using a small portable TV or similar, that in all liklihood is double insulated (no earth in the plug and you will see the 2 small squares symbol on the appliance name tag somewhere), then the earth bit is a bit superfluous in reality. A bit of common sense has to prevail but you cannot be too careful.

Didn't realise they recommended connecting the chassis to earth. Yes, you are right, just use the battery neg and it will connect all at equal potential.
 
Cheers NC

I also couldn't see the point of connecting the inverter cabinets Earth point to the chassis as there are four great lumps of rubber insulating it from the "planet EARTH" - so as you say, an earth spike would be needed (like my generator setup will have) to be absolutely sure

I will check that i wired the AC outlet N and E together

NB I am talking about a separate inverter cabinet earth connection point on the inverter (it also has an AC outlet earth connection point on the inverter PE on the diagram Rob posted) - BUT i suspect they are connected and not insulated from one another)
 
Fitting this to my inverter

GetAttachment99.jpg
 

Attachments

  • GetAttachment99.jpg
    GetAttachment99.jpg
    26.7 KB · Views: 71
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
Silly question time:

I am about to wire up my inverter but have a quick question about connecting the AC wiring

I understand I'll connect Live to L, and Earth to PE. However on the install diagram it only shows two wires going to the socket - Earth and Live. What about Neutral?

Do I connect Neutral to N then connect N to PE? :confusion-scratchheadyellow:

( I will also connect PE and NEG from battery as suggested by Rob ).
What am I missing :think:
 
Right - apologies for the old thread revival...

Seeing as a few of us have just got an inverter via Crispin - can I presume that wiring as per Rob's diagram is correct?
Rob said:

And that fitting of an RCD socket as per Paul (below) where Rob quotes a 30mA earth leakage switch would be adequate...
Paul said:

Thanks.....
 
That should be fine. Not sure about connecting the neutral to the chassis though, if you have a short that could raise the PD quite a lot and pop some electrical bits in the car(?)

As an aside, I have the (read: there is a sample in the post) remote connection layout. it's a simple RJ45 plug with 3 wires for the status LED and a couple of wires for the remote switch. This would allow you to leave it permanently connected and remote switch it on and off.
Not measured the 2KW but my 500 pulls 250mA when doing nothing which would kill your batteries overnight. The remote switch turns it all off.

Not sure if anyone has actually used that?


CP
 
Crispin said:
That should be fine. Not sure about connecting the neutral to the chassis though, if you have a short that could raise the PD quite a lot and pop some electrical bits in the car(?)

I would tend to agree with that. The last thing you want it the cars electrics popping off because of excessive voltage - especiually if you are far from home. Also since the car is insulated from Planet Earth and any leakage cannot dissipate in a traditional earth, presumably any electrical leakage could 'electrify' the chassis - could this be a potential hazzard?
 
That's what I was thinking.
Traditionally N and earth are the same thing but in this case don't see it as a wise thing. There has to be some weird loop with that.
Rather keep earth on inverter connected to earth in the plug.

From curiosity I want to test this :cool:

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
 
I checked this with our electrical safety guy at work and he agrees that with you. Connecting the neutral to the chassis is not recommended. However it would be interesting to check continuity between those 2 terminal anyway :think:
 
Checked for continuity between -ve, case and neutral....

Nope, nothing - its all isolated...
 
I think the reason why we came to the conclusion to connect neutral, negative and case is because the manual says to ground the case, and the negative terminal on the battery is ground on the car :think:
 
Based upon the above, I'd feel happier grounding the case to the car and not to the neutral. Then if the 240v powered item develops a fault it wouldn't fry everything else... :think:

Obviously all will be fine with any of these approaches, until something develops a fault.
 
Forgot to ask - has anyone changed the power mode for their inverter?

According to the manual, the mode can be selected by changing the jumper settings (on PCB behind top cover).

Modes available:
Standard - 230V output voltage
Low Power - 208V <30W
Economic - 208V < 250W
Standby - 0V until load connected...

:think:
 
Possibly, but isn't the negative on the battery connected to the chassis?

I'm not concerned about vehicle electronics as they are very limited on the 80, however I am concerned about safety. Negative connected to the case on a mains powered consumer product would not get IEC/UL certification AFAIK, well at least that the case with vacuum cleaners... This must be the case for a reason. One of you lot must know a bit more about this electrical wizardry stuff :?

No I have not adjusted the power modes, just kept mine standard.
 
Back
Top