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Jobs to do while the head is off.

Oh no :shock: :pray: ing for you :|

@least your head may be OK :thumbup:

Are the bores not sleeved :?:
 
The motor on eBay is the later engine and is for the bare engine only... there will be the cost of all the ancillaries on top of that.

Acording to the manual, the bores are directly in the block.... so I guess there are no liners.

All isn't lost... I have just spoke to Stef (the guy I got the seconhand head off). He has agreed to take back the head that had the bent valves etc... he also has a few 4.2 motors down there with various problems.... I'm sure I could salvage a decent block from one of them if nothing else
 
Bat21 said:
The motor on eBay is the later engine and is for the bare engine only... there will be the cost of all the ancillaries on top of that.

I know it's the later engine, hence my comment about the modified wiring loom.

There are quite a few people who have fitted these engines to the earlier trucks in Australia now & apparently the difference is like night & day :think:
 
Brett said:
There are quite a few people who have fitted these engines to the earlier trucks in Australia now & apparently the difference is like night & day :think:
I noticed this post about one guy that is doing just that... see his comment below.
Im in the process of putting a 1hdfte into my 80 now. when its finished im calling it my HEFTY F-TE. cause its been hefty on my wallet. hope it will be worth it in the end.
 
Unfortunately cheap & Toyota parts are not words used in the same sentence very often :shock:

What about trying some K-seal, it seems to work on all the Land Rover 4.6 V8 blocks that crack or go porous?

That may be a cheap solution that works.
 
Brett said:
What about trying some K-seal, it seems to work on all the Land Rover 4.6 V8 blocks that crack or go porous?

That may be a cheap solution that works.
That was one of my thoughts before I stripped her down.

Now she's stripped I might as well do the job right.... what ever 'right' turns out to be.
 
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Jeez, bad luck Paul at your will know its right when you have finished it.
 
Paul, Karl Wester has a good stock of parts too if Stef draws a blank... :thumbup:

I've been following your trail of woes but I have no experiences to help with so apologies for that. :oops:

Bonne chance gringo... Hopefully you'll get the auld gal back on her rubber soon...
 
I am locking my truck up out of the way. I only live down the road and don't want to come out to a missing engine. :thumbup:
 
Bat21 said:
So these Land Cruisers aren't as bomb proof as we think :(


They are you drove 5,000 mile to the Sahara and back and there was a problem before you left !!!

Now try doing that in a land rover and you would not get as far as the ferry

I would try honing out the bore before you go much further see how bad it is.


Buy a very cheap 80 strip out the bits you want and sell the rest to pay for it. So who wants what off a 80 then

Form a que behind me please. May be we could have a bring a spanner party


Mal
 
Gav Peter said:
Thanks Gav, I did see it but..... I'm not totaly sure the bore is cracked now :doh:

I have spent the day prodding the motor and, having now had time to spin the crank and lower the other pistons, all look the same apart from No1.

So, I have ordered some of THIS which will hopefully provide a definitive answer.
 
Bat21 said:
So, I have ordered some of THIS which will hopefully provide a definitive answer.
The dye doesn't lie, not very clear images but I'm sure you see the results :(
1033666093_rHYb3-O.jpg


1033674666_gf22M-O.jpg


Some of the bell housing bolts look right b'stards to get to... any hints on getting the motor out greatly appreciated.
 
That is bad news Paul :( The top bell housing bolts are a bit of a pita, I got to them with the shifter removed and then putting a long extension up the transmission tunnel, with the gearbox cross member unbolted so the back of the engine was lowered. I don't think the engine hoist I use will be any use to you as it doesn't travel very well :)
 
Thanks John, with the head off those top bolts are quite accessible but don't want to move with just a 17mm spanner :doh:

Am I right in thinking that the torque converter needs to be unbolted from the drive plate and left in the auto box when the motor is removed?
 
Bat21 said:
Am I right in thinking that the torque converter needs to be unbolted from the drive plate and left in the auto box when the motor is removed?
Yes, quite an easy job with the bolts accessed through the oval ish hole in the bottom of the bell housing. Just give it a tap when the bolts are undone to make sure it's not stuck to the flywheel but it sits on the gearbox input shaft so stays put, less chance of damaging it like that than pulling it out with the engine.
 
im sure you could get an engineering firm to bore out and fit a linner with the engine sat
in the lc at not alot of moneys
 
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