KZJ 73 - Priming fuel / bleeding not working...

[loco_ola]

The light seems to go on randomly, not related to cornering or hills, or time.

Once on it stays on until the ignition is turned off. If I immediately turn off the ignition and on again after the light goes on, it stays off until the next random event.

Not sure about the dipstick, it looks right, I filled with 8L of Toyota 10W40 oil (sent by roughtrax with their service kit) and it reads full on the dipstick. Is that going to be too viscous when cold?

Temperature wise here it's not uncommon to be -30C at winter, so far it's been -15C most nights, days it gets over freezing sometimes.

The car was overheating under heavy load, tried changing thermostat and tracing any leaks, eventually took the head off, got it pressure tested and resurfaced as it was not perfectly flat. It never massively overheated as we kept an eye on the temp, the oil had a bit of sludge, but not really much. It had been changed last year just before I got it.

As for the clip I found in the sump here's a shot.

Yeah that's a good question. I know the head's been off before so hopefully it was something that was dropped in, as opposed to something that should be inside the engine.

When I got the sump out properly I found another large bit of the same plastic, I suspect there were some bits too to complete the piece but I didn't strain the oil.

Anyone recognise it?

The half moon cap thing fills in the space at the back of the head behind the camshaft.

View attachment 137703

just went & had a look at your other post - nice looking car dude!

Cheers, she's a, friendly looking machine, in pretty good nick overall. But here in France car's are not cheap, and it's not easy to find good ones unless you want to travel a long way. Eventually found this one, so impressed with it off-roading and in the snow!

 

[GC_Aus]

The light seems to go on randomly, not related to cornering or hills, or time.


Once on it stays on until the ignition is turned off. If I immediately turn off the ignition and on again after the light goes on, it stays off until the next random event.

Not sure about the dipstick, it looks right, I filled with 8L of Toyota 10W40 oil (sent by roughtrax with their service kit) and it reads full on the dipstick. Is that going to be too viscous when cold?

Temperature wise here it's not uncommon to be -30C at winter, so far it's been -15C most nights, days it gets over freezing sometimes.

The car was overheating under heavy load, tried changing thermostat and tracing any leaks, eventually took the head off, got it pressure tested and resurfaced as it was not perfectly flat. It never massively overheated as we kept an eye on the temp, the oil had a bit of sludge, but not really much. It had been changed last year just before I got it.

As for the clip I found in the sump here's a shot.





Cheers, she's a, friendly looking machine, in pretty good nick overall. But here in France car's are not cheap, and it's not easy to find good ones unless you want to travel a long way. Eventually found this one, so impressed with it off-roading and in the snow!

ok - pressure will go up & down with load & engine revs




"Once on it stays on until the ignition is turned off."
makes me think possibly a faulty or failing pressure sender. This would be a good thing to cross off your list anyway so if its a relatively cheap & easy thing to renew then i would do it so you know its been covered. Also something you could do (maybe have already) - clean the terminals & connections on the current sender just in case theres any corrosion on those or they are loose. Actually take them off & replace them - sometimes the corrosion is not visible but is dislodged when you remove the connectors.


dipstick - ok good sounds right.


oil - have a look at the image below which is from the 1KZTE manual out of my Hilux. You need to draw your own conclusion as oil is a sticky.... subject & there will be never ending input from everywhere you look. We hope Toyota has it right - personally i find the 5W-40 works well in my Lux,- gives easy starting in winter, good fuel economy over the 15W-40, quieter running & no sludge. lots will tell you to use a heavier oil but given your cold starting i would probably try to be gentle while the engine is warming up.

If you put a thread up asking about oil - just watch out for the polarized responses - its like tyres... much witchcraft involved


ok - under load...

might be worth your time to run an oil system flush through like this = https://www.wynns.eu/product/engine-flush/ & also consider doing the same for the radiator cooling system. I say this again mainly because maybe you dont know the full history of the vehicle - type of oil / coolant used. Was it ever flushed..?

Short runs can result in oil sludge being retained in corners within the engine & the same happens with corrosion or rust in the cooling system. removing the crud means better flow in both cases.

basically try to cover all the simple things first before you commit to pulling down the engine is what I'm saying really.

now having just said that.....

that metal part is a woodruff key which normally would be used on a shaft such as a pump.... to keep it aligned to the adjacent component. Crankshaft, oil pump....! or maybe something else.

the plastic part looks a bit like a cam chain or timing chain guide.

Someone else will know exactly but i'm sorry i haven't rebuilt this engine so cant ID with perfect accuracy. i'll go have a little look in a moment to see if i can find it.

maybe start another 'what is this thread?'


"Cheers, she's a, friendly looking machine,"
yeah cool - should be ideal in the snow with the right tires etc. I've traveled around France a few times & certainly cant say i saw many on the road so definitely not your average commuter removable roof so good for summer too - all good!
funny - Tyres change to Tires here - in "Frenglish" do you use US or UK spelling for those black things on the bottom of your car?

 

[Chris Boorer]

Im wondwering if you might have the fuel lines on pump around wrong way double check flow direction

 

[GC_Aus]

ok - I'm going to suggest that the woodruff key is from the camshaft - dislodged upon reassembly after the head job. Somehow the key ends up in the head & then simply drops down into the sump through one of the oil journals.

the oil pump could also have the same key but you probably didn't dismantle that just to do the head??

i am surprised that the key could get through that backing plate but stranger things have happened.

i once dropped an M10 nut down the air intake on a Peugeot 504 engine & it made it all the way through & shot out the exhaust....

have a look at the image attached - N0:1 camshaft pulley > set key.

If this is the case then your camshaft is only being held in place with the locking bolt. Some / any slippage with that pulley & your timing is out & then ergo you will have oil feed & overheating issues.

Don't fix it & you will have a total rebuild on the bench so be careful & if this is the case then i certainly wouldn't drive the car until you have it fixed.

will be keen to hear what you find?

 

[loco_ola]

Sorry for not being clear, the woodruff key was for the head and is just a filler.

The plastic clip is the unknown item i found.

 

[loco_ola]

Cheers for the comprehensive answers GC_Aus, sorry I missed the first one as I hadn't had caffeine yet.

I recon the sender for the oil level is probably damaged, most likely when cleaning the horrible silicone off the sump, There was loads of snow around and I wonder if even theres some residual moisture inside the connecting clip. I'll try to get under today and have a look.

Sounds like the 10W40 should be ok oil wise as long as we take it easy when cold, next change I'd put in the 5W40 instead.

I haven't flushed the oil system, but I did the coolant. Oil was never on top of my problems list as it seemed well enough.

In France they call tyres - pneus, I'm from the UK really, but left for some sun, snow and mountains.

Im wondwering if you might have the fuel lines on pump around wrong way double check flow direction

Nice thinking, but it pumps through now it's primed itself. I think with very low fuel there was too much of an air lock for the pump to be effective.

 

[Mike001]

It did cross my mind to take the fuel pump out the saab 900 I have here and do that, but I couldn't be bothered to clear the snow off it, the bike pump option seemed easier. Im thinking about just putting a marine bulb before the filter incase I ever need to do it again (or run out of fuel).

That is exactly what I have installed. Works just fine.