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Land Cruiser KZJ95.............

Rims have been found but not bought, yet.....
I will most likely buy Australian "Dynamic" rims, "Soft 8"... Need to determine on the ET as there is a choice of 3 different ones..
A lift kit will subsequently be called for. As I need it approved, there is a choice of 2. OME or Trailmaster

With the great help from KJM, I attacked the "stuck" backrest. So now I can sit way more comfortable :-)
THANKS YOU KJM!!

Threw on a new timing belt and some oils&filters. It remains to reset the timing belt light.
If I understand this right, I need to pull the instrument cluster to sort this.

I am now fighting a failing "glow" issue
The way I read the electric diagram, the glow relay is controlled by the engine ECU. The ECU picks up 4 different signals that in turn tells the ECU to activate the glow relay...
When I flick the key, the light only comes on for 2-3 seconds before it goes dark & I hear the click once the glow plug relay goes dark.
Any pointers as to what sensor is the most likely culprit here?

Another matter I need to adress is corrosion on the rear axle.
I seriously hope I don`t have to cut the axle housing apart to get to the "problem area".... :-0
 
Timing belt light - remove cluster and theirs a screw you move from one point to another, will make more sense when you remove it.

That click you here is most likely the ABS cycling, not the glow plug relay. First get a volt meter, stick it on the glow plug bar (on top of the engine) and see if it's receiving power. Normally spikes and voltage will drop quickly depending on temperature.
 
Reg Timing Light; Got it Beau -> Sometime in the comming week :-)

Reg the click-> Is corresponds 100% with the glowlight going dark.... It may be coincidental
The start is abit sluggish.... (yes I know there could be several culprits) but it should still glow.
I will look deeper into this. Tested the relay on the bench the other day & it seems to work fine.


I am trying to work my head around the roof rack.
For practical reasons it is likely that I will end up with a FrontRunner rack. And in that process loose the rails!!
Unfortunately the FR rack it is abit short for my Maggi RTT... Had the same problem on the LC100
Worst Case is I will mount the RTT onto the original load bars that came with the truck untill I get this sorted...
Which leaves me without (a place to fit) an Awning & an a ticked off wifey...

I`d also like to have a ladder. FrontRunner do a descent enough one.
In the past I have said I`d prefer to bin the spare wheel ans replace it with a ladder fitted to the original bolt holes. Would also be benefitial & save the hinges...
How smart it is of me to drop the spare wheel & subsequently have no good place to leave my clamp on BBQ or SpareWheel cover trash bag is an entirely different story.
The 90 is tight enough as it is in the back, so relocating the spare wheel into the car aint happening....

Had out the measiring tape yesterday. Need to shop for material as I want to have a fold down table on the tail gate door. It will replace the lower half of the door card.
 
I'm sure i read somewhere that the dash light is not directly connected to the glow plugs and is just a sort of reminder that you should heat plugs before starting .

I really don't see the sense of removing the spare wheel from the door because it's the best place for it , unless you plan to fit a swingaway rear bumper ?
 
I would have to look at my El. diagram to give You a definate answer on how the glowplug light works on this spesific engine.
On MOST others I know of, the light goes dark once the glow periode is complete...
I may be jumping to conclusions....

The added weight to the rear doos in less mercyfull on the hinges.... We are not all blessed with "great" roads... so I was attempting to releave abith of the stress on the door.
A swing away has been on my mind. IIRC the 4-Runner came with such a device as an option.
I`d have to look at what I can make taken the bumper into consideration. A single pivot carrier would by far be the neatest soltion. Not sure when I will find time to mock that up TBH :-(
 
You could extend the chassis rail to come through the bumper giving you something solid to start a mock up swingaway without having to build a whole bumper .

I don't think the hinges suffer a great deal from the added weight , i need new ones myself but i'd say its the 19 years of use that done the damage and obviously because the pins are now a loose fit the door can move when its closed accelerating the wear .
 
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Something down that line Shayne!

I have an A-Bar "Swing-Away" kicking about from a LR Defender that I might remodel to suit.
A complete bumper would be neat, so would having time on my hands be....

The J9`s I have seen around all suffer from worn hinges. Many have found that reducing stress to the door by reducing weight helps quite a bit..... Regardsless of it being a J7,J9,J12 or a Defender for that matter...

A plan is on the rising :-)
 
Pretty sure I noted on pretty cold days the glow plug light will remain on a few seconds longer than when the engine is hot. But it is known for the glow plugs to be on still and when the engine has started even though the light it off. Once these engines are hot, the glow plugs really don't do anything. I had one busted glow plug for couple years and she still started on the dot. Would just throw some black smoke out the back for a second or two. You might want to consider looking elsewhere for that sluggish start.
 
Thanks BEAU!

to share on my investigation; There is sufficient juice going to the glowplug busbar. The relay is active LONG after the light has gone dark. On "cold" the engines starts OK after having had the glow circute complete (relay closes, BB not juiced). BUT upon startup the glowrelay does come to life again for some time... possibly as much as 20 seconds when the car is ideling from cold.
We have not double-checked this with a siilar vehicle -> Same there
So unless my glowplugs are toast, this system is intakt.
If the glowplugs have now sat there for 500K & 21 years, I will accept if they are now dead :-)
There are more reasons for the sluggish start than the glow system only, so that will be attended to.

Visisted a good buddy of mine who has a very late J9 Narrow body. He has fitted 6x16 ETO rims to his truck along with 255/85R16 BFG MT`s. This setup is JUST sticking outside the fenders....and it is also fairly inline with what I have measured on my own J9...
So I need to hunt for rims with those specs...
 
Keeping the Inhouse-Bosslady happy I shopped for side steps.....

Have 99% decided I will go with original Toyo rims... Not cheap but....

Will also build a drop down table on the rear door. The original door card will go byebye.

Will soon also order wooden material to build abit if camper interior into the back.... By far nothing here is decided on... A few confirmed items will be taken in for sure. The rest is very much up in the air.

Will ask TrailMaster/Germany for a suspention parts quote. I must have TüV papers to comply & meet local MOT equivalent standards.
 
Right!

So I have sourced a rear axle with a factory locker.
The donor vehicel also has the switchgear available.
The overall price is fairly reasonable....
The way I recon it, is if I want a locker, I can either go with the mentioned setup, ARB (alot of £££) or anther brand name Aftermarked locker (also ££££)
Lets set spares for rebuilding the diff and potentially a compressor aside...

OK -> I know the genuine Toyo Lockers aint "gold" & the actuator can be abit "hmmm".

So Guys- What do You recon??? Get the mentioned axle or stuff the plan entirly??
 
Factory is good , corrosion is what makes them a topic of convo usually that or people who just bought a truck only to find it's seized from lack of use .
 
I have seen some dramatic corrosion between the alloy housing of the aquator & the axle casing.
I know parts for this come at a premium..... or is there any replacement vailable that I aint aware of??
Still in 2 minds on what to do...

Ordered the genuine switch gear today...
The Toyo Axle w factory locker is currently reserved for me. It is sold with a warranty... I will inspect prior to forking out good Viking$$...

I should be able to recoup some of the money spent once I drop my current axle... It is in fair shape..
 
There's not really anything anyone can tell you i don't think , if it looks serviceable it probably is .

The only broken one i can actually remember was a guy a long time ago who broke 4 . When he showed a pic of his playground i asked "don't tell me you engage all lockers on arrival and disengage them when you leave ?"

It was fast track mixed surface hard and soft , he never replied i don't think so that about says it all .

I use the rear locker only when i'm stuck or convinced i will be very soon .

Being cautious a long way from home i didn't engage the rear difflock while trying to extract a fully loaded bin wagon from a hole , but in truth i think my wheels would have spun before the diff itself give up .
 
Every now & then we`d like to get off the track without "followers"... & all open diffs aint cutting the cheese..hence the desire to be able to at least lock 1 axle...

I have ARB on my other 4x4`s.
As this 90 is a budget build I need to consider options.
The donor axle will be very throroughly inspected. The salt they lay down on the black top over here is deadly to the undercarridge. I am more conserned abt that then the locker actually being mollested. Donor vehicle seems well serviced, but...... You never can tell upfront
 
I would like a front locker but ultimately decided the front diff isn't strong enough and with so little articulation a front wheel that can't be pushed over is unlikely to drag itself over anyway . Personal opinion of course others may disagree .

If its coming from a clean car its probably never been used , some wd-40 inside the inspection plate got mine working when i first bought the truck .
 
If I had to choose, I`d prefer a rear locker over a front....

That is indeed my conserne. I aint paying unless it is sound & in working condition!
Hence I am picking it up in person :-)
 
Not much happening

Put in fuel & driven it..... Parts for TLC & upgrades are comming in & going onto the (seriously growing) pile....
Decided that the spare wheel stays on the door for now....
Trying to get a confirmation on my ordered bumper :confused:
I MAY very well be that I fit a TRAILMASTER suspention, in current negotiations with the MAAS company in Germany;)

More to come :)
 
So in the path of my paralel "non runner thread" I was looking for parts...
The 90 is not that often found with breakrs this side of the fishlake.... So when a vehicle described as a "drivable wreck" was offered, I jumped on it.... Little did I know that the body was close to immaculate for its age.....
Now that the "non-runner" of my buddy has turned sweet again, I am stuck with 2 Land Cruiser 90`s...
The "new" to me one being also a green narrow body LC95 built in 1998.
Had a brilliant trip Saturday night across the Norwegian Montainrange of Hardangervidda. Being the azy guy I am, the camera was left at home......... ;-(
Missed some seriously magic shots there...........

I will make a mence..... :-)
 
Although I reckon you probably know the 80 diff lock ( front axle that is) fits the 90 rear axle. The wiring plug is slightly different so needs to be swapped. This is what I did with mine. The 80 front diff lock mechanism is always in a lot better condition than the rear one as it's sheltered at the back of the axle and are more common S/H.
 
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