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LJ70 Build Thread!
- Thread starter Ben
- Start date
Roger Fairclough
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2010
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- 1,106
Hi Ben.
Frost already! Just how cold did it get?
Firstly your vacuum hose. On the KZJ 70, the system is, hose from vacuum pump to pipe that runs across car below the rad. Then hose to pipe that runs adjacent to steering column and then hose to brake booster. As you found on the 4 Runner, this last pipe has a small off-shoot goes to the 4 wheel drive actuator switch unit. To put a plastic hose, even a reinforced one, across the engine is asking for trouble, as engine heat will soften it and cause the hose to collapse when subjected to a vacuum. Your new system replicates the original Toyota system.
The problem with the X-brake is disc run-out or the caliper is misaligned. If you have a dial gauge and a mounting kit, set it up and spin the rotor. You need to check the run-out approx. 10 mm from the outer edge. The run-out should not exceed 0.15mm ( 0.006" ). In reality you should see a figure closer to half this. If the disc is running OK, then the problem is the caliper. You need to look at the brake from underneath whilst someone operates the brake. If you can see the caliper twist as the brake is applied, then the caliper pads are not running parallel to the disc. It's unlikely to be the caliper, so you then need to check the mounting plate. The plate mounts to the t/box with 6 bolts and 6 distance pieces, each approx. 20 mm long. This plate needs to be parallel to the disc and 90 deg. to the axis of the g/box shaft.
I suggest you remove the whole unit and check the following:-
1) make certain that the inner side of the output flange from the box is perfectly flat and clean. The disc will only run true if this side of the flange is free from dirt and any blemishes in the metal i.e. where the original studs fitted.
2) Check the surfaces of the aluminium where the 20 mm distance pieces mount. There is the possibility that the original bolts may have caused the aluminium to spall and change the depth of the flange at these points. This could cause the mounting plate to be mounted at the wrong angle.
3) Is the mounting plate touching the chassis or the bodywork to such a degree that torque reaction from the engine may have bent it?
4) Are the caliper pads correctly mounted?
5) Is the position of the cable causing the caliper to twist on its mounting?
Have fun.
Roger
Frost already! Just how cold did it get?
Firstly your vacuum hose. On the KZJ 70, the system is, hose from vacuum pump to pipe that runs across car below the rad. Then hose to pipe that runs adjacent to steering column and then hose to brake booster. As you found on the 4 Runner, this last pipe has a small off-shoot goes to the 4 wheel drive actuator switch unit. To put a plastic hose, even a reinforced one, across the engine is asking for trouble, as engine heat will soften it and cause the hose to collapse when subjected to a vacuum. Your new system replicates the original Toyota system.
The problem with the X-brake is disc run-out or the caliper is misaligned. If you have a dial gauge and a mounting kit, set it up and spin the rotor. You need to check the run-out approx. 10 mm from the outer edge. The run-out should not exceed 0.15mm ( 0.006" ). In reality you should see a figure closer to half this. If the disc is running OK, then the problem is the caliper. You need to look at the brake from underneath whilst someone operates the brake. If you can see the caliper twist as the brake is applied, then the caliper pads are not running parallel to the disc. It's unlikely to be the caliper, so you then need to check the mounting plate. The plate mounts to the t/box with 6 bolts and 6 distance pieces, each approx. 20 mm long. This plate needs to be parallel to the disc and 90 deg. to the axis of the g/box shaft.
I suggest you remove the whole unit and check the following:-
1) make certain that the inner side of the output flange from the box is perfectly flat and clean. The disc will only run true if this side of the flange is free from dirt and any blemishes in the metal i.e. where the original studs fitted.
2) Check the surfaces of the aluminium where the 20 mm distance pieces mount. There is the possibility that the original bolts may have caused the aluminium to spall and change the depth of the flange at these points. This could cause the mounting plate to be mounted at the wrong angle.
3) Is the mounting plate touching the chassis or the bodywork to such a degree that torque reaction from the engine may have bent it?
4) Are the caliper pads correctly mounted?
5) Is the position of the cable causing the caliper to twist on its mounting?
Have fun.
Roger
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thanks Adrian. 
Roger it was -2 at 7.30am here on monday morning, but im sure it felt a lot colder due to the amount of wind that comes across the open fields where the 4-runner is parked up.
the cold caused me huge problems on monday morning driving to work.
i put 20litres of veg in the tank on sunday morning and she ran perfectly all day, i did quite a few miles, and thought id used most of the veg up, but i hadnt. what i should have done, and had every intention of doing was to stick 20litres of derv in the tank sunday evening after laning, but i thought it would be ok.
driving to work monday morning the truck got slower and slower and slower, to the point where it was only doing 20mph and had no power at all. all due to the veg oil going very thick in the cold weather. had to fill a drum up with 20litres of diesel, then when i got back to my truck in the evening chuck it all in the tank and leave it running for 10minutes so it pumped the diesel through the engine. that fixed it and it drove home perfectly again.
i must be more careful now the cold weather is coming and not run on 100%veg oil again.
that reminds me, the heated fuel filter housing ive fitted.
ive noticed on my fuse box ive got a fuse marked fuel heater, and there are wires going to it. do you know where the fuel heater relay is located on your kzj70?
ive removed the one from the 4-runner and want to get it fitted and wired up on mine.
regarding the X-brake, i did notice when i had the rear axle jacked up off the ground and was checking to see if the front prop was turning, that the disc didnt look like it was turning perfectly, and did look ever so slightly buckled, but i havnt got anything for measuring this.
thanks for all your suggestions, i will work my way through the list, and report back with what i find.
Roger it was -2 at 7.30am here on monday morning, but im sure it felt a lot colder due to the amount of wind that comes across the open fields where the 4-runner is parked up.
the cold caused me huge problems on monday morning driving to work.
i put 20litres of veg in the tank on sunday morning and she ran perfectly all day, i did quite a few miles, and thought id used most of the veg up, but i hadnt. what i should have done, and had every intention of doing was to stick 20litres of derv in the tank sunday evening after laning, but i thought it would be ok.
driving to work monday morning the truck got slower and slower and slower, to the point where it was only doing 20mph and had no power at all. all due to the veg oil going very thick in the cold weather. had to fill a drum up with 20litres of diesel, then when i got back to my truck in the evening chuck it all in the tank and leave it running for 10minutes so it pumped the diesel through the engine. that fixed it and it drove home perfectly again.
i must be more careful now the cold weather is coming and not run on 100%veg oil again.
that reminds me, the heated fuel filter housing ive fitted.
ive noticed on my fuse box ive got a fuse marked fuel heater, and there are wires going to it. do you know where the fuel heater relay is located on your kzj70?
ive removed the one from the 4-runner and want to get it fitted and wired up on mine.
regarding the X-brake, i did notice when i had the rear axle jacked up off the ground and was checking to see if the front prop was turning, that the disc didnt look like it was turning perfectly, and did look ever so slightly buckled, but i havnt got anything for measuring this.
thanks for all your suggestions, i will work my way through the list, and report back with what i find.
Roger Fairclough
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2010
- Messages
- 1,106
You can make a basic dial gauge with a piece of stiffish wire and a set of feeler gauges. Fix the wire to a suitable bolt (create a loop in the wire and bolt it down onto the t/box). Bend the wire so that it is nearly touching the disc 20mm from the edge. Measure this distance. Now turn the disc 180 deg. Measure again. Turn 90 deg. and measure again. Ditto another 180 deg. It's a bit crude but if done carefully is accurate enough. Max. run out 0.006".
Let me know what you find.
Roger.
Let me know what you find.
Roger.
Roger Fairclough
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2010
- Messages
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Fuel heater (2L-T Europe).
Black wire from F42 fuse block No.1, via 15 amp fuse to fuel heater and then white/black wire to earth. No mention of a relay, so it's a low amperage draw.
Roger
Black wire from F42 fuse block No.1, via 15 amp fuse to fuel heater and then white/black wire to earth. No mention of a relay, so it's a low amperage draw.
Roger
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thanks Roger, probably going to be Saturday now, until i can investigate the X-ENG problem. 
had a bit of an accident the other night, which resulted in one of my rear lights getting broken.
my girlfriend in OZ brought me them over last time she was over, as theres no where over here selling them.
so needing to replace them i contacted the ebay seller to see how much they wanted to post them. the lights are only £31.25, which is very good value, especially considering how bad the exchange rate now is. but they want £60 postage!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230392721445? ... 1864wt_932
i knew people have brought them from europe, so this was my next area to search. so i typed ebay germany, ebay france, ebay spain, ebay poland etc. into google and i was then on the ebay site for the different countries.
next id enter toytoa 70 into the search box, and then enter "rear lights" into google translate.
http://translate.google.com/
with the txt now in the correct language i was able to copy and paste it next to the toyota 70 bit, and search each ebay looking for the lights.
france seems to be the cheapest so far.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160517140982? ... 1006wt_698
theyve messaged me back, and with postage the lights will cost £74.
before i fit the new lights, really need to get the rear bumper designed and built, because i really dont want to be replacing them again.
had a bit of an accident the other night, which resulted in one of my rear lights getting broken.
my girlfriend in OZ brought me them over last time she was over, as theres no where over here selling them.
so needing to replace them i contacted the ebay seller to see how much they wanted to post them. the lights are only £31.25, which is very good value, especially considering how bad the exchange rate now is. but they want £60 postage!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230392721445? ... 1864wt_932
i knew people have brought them from europe, so this was my next area to search. so i typed ebay germany, ebay france, ebay spain, ebay poland etc. into google and i was then on the ebay site for the different countries.
next id enter toytoa 70 into the search box, and then enter "rear lights" into google translate.
http://translate.google.com/
with the txt now in the correct language i was able to copy and paste it next to the toyota 70 bit, and search each ebay looking for the lights.
france seems to be the cheapest so far.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160517140982? ... 1006wt_698
theyve messaged me back, and with postage the lights will cost £74.
before i fit the new lights, really need to get the rear bumper designed and built, because i really dont want to be replacing them again.
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Hello sorry to interrupt but i brought mine from here http://wyprawa4x4.pl/go/_category/?p&id ... y_22_6_p=7
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Rob said:
Rob that would be a huge help and greatly appreciated if you could please mate. its the drivers side i desperately need, but the passenger side is also cracked, so ideally i want a pair.
if you find out how much it will cost, i will get some money sent over to you.
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fitting the 4-runner 1-KZT engine into my LJ70 was fairly straight forward, but there are a few connectors both on my loom and on the new engine that arnt connected to anything as i cant work out where they go. ive also got a few electrical problems.
today a manual arrived that im very confident will be the solution to my problems.
its a proper toyota manual, and covers both the LJ70 (2.4) and the KZJ70 (3litre engine, that ive fitted.) the amount of detail and information is really good.
its got exploded diagrams of both my old engine, and the new one, and it labels each electrical item.
it also has pics of every electrical connector on the vehicle.
then at the back is a load of wiring diagrams that fold out.
im hoping with this new manual i can sort out all the electrical issues, and avoid the £40+ per hour expense of an auto electrician.
today a manual arrived that im very confident will be the solution to my problems.
its a proper toyota manual, and covers both the LJ70 (2.4) and the KZJ70 (3litre engine, that ive fitted.) the amount of detail and information is really good.
its got exploded diagrams of both my old engine, and the new one, and it labels each electrical item.
it also has pics of every electrical connector on the vehicle.
then at the back is a load of wiring diagrams that fold out.
im hoping with this new manual i can sort out all the electrical issues, and avoid the £40+ per hour expense of an auto electrician.
