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LJ70 Build Thread!

thanks for the heads up on the skateboard bearings Sam. :clap:

just bought these:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250974883474? ... _732wt_698

50 for £15.25! :dance:

a lot better than the £70+ my local bearing place wanted for 28. :roll:

i noticed on the ironman video that there system also has bearings on the very bottom that run against the edges of the drawers.

i might look into adding some like that on my system. :think:
 
Lorin said:
ben said:
thanks, i have been meaning to fit a temp gauge for a while, but couldnt decide on which one to get. i would like a madman one but there not cheap. :think:


I've been wanting a madman guage or similar for a while but just can't justify the price. Jon's Arduino device would also be spot on but is beyond me to build etc. Although only a temp guage and alarm, these are the best I've seen for the money and I am going to order one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0815948233

searching ebay.co.uk reveals quite a few TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER GAUGE'S that look the same to the one you linked to.

found one for £10.99 delivered, and loads for £15 delivered. :think:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Digital-L ... 5984wt_876

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCD-Digital-T ... 5763wt_972

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-thermo ... 7032wt_966

very tempted to order one, but need to see if i can find some where suitable to mount it first. :)
 
huge thanks to Roger for spending his Saturday in the freezing cold changing the bearings in my transfer box with me, and to Viv for keeping us well fed and watered! :clap:

so we got the box into the workshop and stood it on its end.

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as we stripped it down every thing was meticulously cleaned including all the bolts.

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the old oil didnt look very healthy.

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it looked like some one has stripped the box down before.

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we used a tap to make sure all the threaded holes in the casing were clean.

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new gaskets.

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re-fitted the X-ENG calliper mounting bracket.

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re-built the calliper with the new parts id got, because the old piston had got so hot it had melted (plastic) and the pads were badly worn.

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removed the standard breather valves.

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new valve that Roger made.

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hole where old breather valve was, ready to have a thread tapped in it.

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using lots of grease on the end of the tap, to pick up the swarf we tapped the holes.

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2 tapped holes.

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new ones fitted.

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im a bit worried i didnt take enough photos. :oops: :lol:

thanks again Roger, much appreciated. :thumbup:

really regretting going out last night and having 10 pints. :sick:

the prospect of getting underneath the truck on the oil soaked gravel drive, and wrestling the heavy box back in, really doesnt seem very appealing. :thumbdown:

oh well............................best get on with it!
 
Nice work there boys :mrgreen: Looks like you had some fun :D

Was the shaft damage nothing to worry about then :?:
 
Both the idler gear and rear output shafts were damaged.

The idler gear---the one pictured---has suffered serious damage to one area. It will have reduced the life expectancy to a degree, but the box will probably be able to soldier on for many more miles. Eventually it will get a lot noisier and the needle roller bearing that runs on the damaged surface will break up, but Ben could easily see 50,000 more miles before that happens.

The output shaft is showing a degree of imminent break up on one surface but, in this case the bearing surface is phosphor bronze, so the localised pressure is much smaller and the life expectancy is probably greater.

The reasons for the damage are probably poor oil quality and foreign material in the oil. Certainly the oil was emulsified.

The box is now back together and the new bearings on the output have been set to give a degree of pre-load. This should enable Ben to give his X-Brake another go. Will it work? Hmm, the juries still out on that one.

Roger
 
thanks guys. :thumbup:

i started off by filling the gearbox and transfer box's up with oil.

borrowed a measuring jug out of the kitchen so i could measure the exact amount of oil.

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gearbox was easiest as i could use a funnel and simply pour it in the top through the gearstick hole.

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transfercase was a little trickier. so filled up a 1 litre bottle.

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and managed to squeeze the oil into the box.

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managed to drag the box to the truck.

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sealed the new breather valves and gearstick hole, to prevent crap falling in.

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and wrestled it under the truck.

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then my mate turned up to lend a much needed hand.

our first idea for getting the box up in place, was to use the winch on the front of his hilux, through the sunroof of my 70, through the hole in the transmission tunnel, to a strop around the gearbox. but even with 3 snatch blocks, we could see it wouldnt work due to the fact the hole in the transmission tunnel was in the wrong place. the only way i could see it would work would have been if the windscreen hadnt been in place, and i could have brought the winch rope through where the screen would normally be. :think:

idea 2 was to use an engine crane through one of the doors, again with a strop around the gearbox and lifting through the hole in the transmission tunnel. this idea im confident would have worked well, but it would have meant going and getting the crane, and we were both eager to crack on.

so option 3 was to use ratchet straps.

so we rigged up a few bits of wood and 2 ratchet straps.

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once it was high enough to get the trolley jack in, we slid it under and jacked it up.

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that didnt take very long, maybe 20mins. we then spent about 10mins trying to line the gearbox up with the engine correctly.

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once it was in position against the engine we put all the bolts in and then moved the jack and got the cross member bolted back in place. followed by the props, starter motor, and clutch slave cylinder.

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that took a few hours in total. so quite pleased really, as i was worried it might be a difficult long process. :dance:

then nipped back to my mates house to collect some bits id claimed on a 4x4 hes recently bought to break for parts.

got a sireo aerial, burner, and cb radio. and a pair of big 6 x 9 speakers.

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puts some RTV sealant around the flange on the exhaust front pipe.

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and bolted it in place.

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needed to re-fit the gear stick next.

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and took it for a test drive. drives perfectly, and 4 high and low work in every gear as they should.

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very noisy and windy with the transmission tunnel all uncovered, but it will have to stay like this for a few days until the 8mm breather hose im going to order arrives.

going to be a busy week by the looks of things. i want the drawer system finished, cb radio and burner fitted, and sireo aerial mounted on the front bumper, and gearbox and transfer box breathers all done before next weekends laning and camping trip! :thumbup:
 
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i took the X-ENG handbrake calliper off before i fitted the gearbox to make it a little lighter, and because i didnt think id get time today to try and adjust it and set it up properly.

hopefully get time to have a crack at that next week.

im hopeful that now the transferbox has the new bearings fitted, the disc will spin true and wont catch on the pads in the calliper. :pray:

if the disc catches on the pads when the prop turns, the disc and calliper will get very hot again and the calliper piston will melt, and the pads will get very worn. :thumbdown:

once the X-ENG handbrake is working properly, i can start to look at converting the rear brakes to discs! :dance:
 
Not a bad weekends work ben... impressed! :clap:

Not a patch on mine though... I managed to drill 8 holes and cut a bit of box section in half! :lol:

Now that's progress.
 
thanks Sam. :thumbup:

going to do some more on my truck tonight, and im hoping that the bearings will be here tomorrow. :pray:

i ordered 3 of these latches this morning.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI. ... 1446wt_932

going to have one in the centre of the small drawer and 2 on the big drawer. :thumbup:

ive used them before, and because there adjustable i will be able to adjust the latches to pull the drawers in nice and tight so they shouldn't rattle. :thumbup:

you going to update your thread with some pics? :)
 
Yeah will do ben soon as I can - just getting no time at the moment :thumbdown:

Got a load of metal, wood and a 2.5 meter cardboard tube rattling around in the back at the moment.... hopefully it will be quieter when I've bolted it together :lol:

Not gonna be as tight as yours but I'll get there eventually :thumbup:
 
the rubber gaiter on top of the gear box, where the gear stick goes in, was badly split, and i suspect this is where a lot of the water got into the box. :thumbdown:

so i bought a rubber CV boot today.

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found some jubilee clips for it.

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old boot.

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fitted perfectly.

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got the breather tubes fitted for the gearbox and transfer box.

used a hose T to connect the 2 hoses together. then cable tied the hose to the speedo cable and routed it up into the engine bay, ready to bring up the snorkel.

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refitted the gaiters and centre console.

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got a little bit more done on the drawers. wanted to replace the bolts bolting the 2 sections of cable tray together because there too long.

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the shorter bolts id found compared to the ones id previously fitted.

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changed them all for the shorter ones and thread locked them all.

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couldnt do anymore as it was 9pm by this time and too late to angle grind. :thumbdown:
 
It's never to late to grind Ben!

Your emergrating soon arnt you :lol:

I love my dewalt battery grinder for little cuts and trims and it's much less loud than a proper grinder.
 
thanks Carl. :thumbup:

you bought an 80 yet? :)

jeepmadmike said:
It's never to late to grind Ben!

Your emergrating soon arnt you :lol:

I love my dewalt battery grinder for little cuts and trims and it's much less loud than a proper grinder.

well was still grinding at 9.45pm today! :dance:

i use a 18v makita one at work. great bit of Kit, especially with the thin 1mm discs! perfect for cutting plastics like UPVC. :)
 
knocked up a simple bracket yesterday to enable me to fit the sirio aerial onto the bull bar.

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after giving it a few coats of black spray paint, and drilling 2 holes in the bull bar, i bolted it on.

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did a bit more on the drawer system.

cut and marked the pieces that the drawer fronts will bolt to.

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and bolted them in place.

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today the bearings and latches arrived! :dance:

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started bolting the bearings in place using M8 bolts with nylock nuts.

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used an 0ff cut of the 75mm tray to reinforce the side.

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marked, drilled and bolted the top bearings in place.

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cut all the alloy runners to length.

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marked where they needed drilling.

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drilled one side with a 6mm bit and the opposite side with a 16mm hole saw. just enough room to get a socket in.

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marked, drilled and bolted the runners on.

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tried it in place and it works beautifully!

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got the bearings on the other side.

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i had to call it a day by 9.45pm as had been working on it since getting home from work at 5.45pm. :thumbdown:

hoping to get it installed tomorrow night. 8-)
 
Ben, thanks for trying out my idea. I am delighted that it's looking so good and working so well. I shall have to print out these pages and retire to the workshop! I know it's a lot of effort and hours, but in terms of materials cost? Not quite going to hit the £1200 mark, I am guessing.

I don't think I shall go quite so robust on the drawers myself, but the rest is exactly as I had it in my head.

Great job.

Chris
 
thanks Chris. :thumbup:

i was never intending on making a drawer system, but then reading your ideas in Sam's thread, i thought bloody hell that looks simple, i shall have to give it a go! :clap:

pleased with how its gone/going. the cable tray has worked perfectly, and so have the cheap skateboard bearings.

if i hadnt of already had the sheet of alloy and all the angle and roofing bolts, id probably have made the drawer boxes out of ply. but this has worked out cheaper for me. :)

lockable latches £25.35
bearings £15.24
alloy box for runners £30.84
cable tray £40
bolts for bearings £4.20

so just over £100. :dance:
 
Back of the net! That's pretty amazing. I just have to get this bumper finished and then I can get started in your footsteps. I really need a workbench first though. Everything I make has to be balanced on something like the top of the freezer.

It's a proper job mate, no mistaking.



Chris
 
thanks guys! :thumbup:

i really dont know where the time goes. did another 4 hours on it tonight and still not finished! :roll:

i found the bigger drawer wasnt sliding very smoothly, and on closer inspection realised that id made it a few mm too narrow. :oops:

so i used some 4mm thick washers to space the runners away from the drawer boxes.

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this helped a lot!

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put the frame in the truck and then slid the drawers in place.

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checked the small drawer will open ok with the big door closed.

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perfect!

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removed the drawers and bolted the frame in place.
used the rear seat mounting holes at the back.

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used 2" wood screws at the front into plastic inserts already in the floor pan. i think they originally held a piece of trim in place, back in the days when the truck had luxury's like carpet! :lol:

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i was pleased the drawer frame was bolted in and felt nice and solid!

so started measuring and cutting the 3/4" ply wood sheet that will form the top.

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i then realised i couldnt get the damm thing in! :angry-banghead:

so i decided i had 3 options.

remove both back doors, and the sheet should hopefully fit.

cut the top in half and have it in 2 pieces which i wasnt very keen on,

i had a measure and realised that it would just fit, if it went in on the angle, but only without the drawer frame bolted in place! :thumbdown:

so drawer frame back out, then ply in on an angle. then i had to put a load of blocks of wood on top of the inner arches, to space the ply up in the air so i could get the drawer frame back in place, and bolted back down.

it was a bit awkward, but i got there in the end!

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made sure everything was parallel and square, and then screwed the ply down to the frame using 40mm countersunk headed self tappers.

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drawers back in.

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they were working ok but needed some adjustment.

it would appear that the amount of clearance that the runners have to the sides is quite critical. too much and the drawers dont run smoothly and they rattle. too tight and the drawer runners catch on the sides and are difficult to open and close.

i had to remove some of the bigger washers from the big drawer and replace them with slightly smaller ones. by doing this and loosing 2mm off the overall width the runners are apart made a huge difference.

on the small drawer i added some 2mm thick washers to the sides between the drawer box and runners and this made a huge difference.

i decided it was too late to start cutting the alloy for the drawer fronts using the circ saw. so decided to remove the spare from the front, as id had the punctured tyre repaired.

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that done i started looking at the CB radio. got the cable from the aerial through the bulkhead into the passenger foot well ready to wire the burner up.

couldnt resist putting some stuff in the new drawer.

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need to get the drawers and CB finished tomorrow night ready for a weekend of camping and laning! 8-)
 
YYY
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