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LJ70 Build Thread!
- Thread starter Ben
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so the super pro panhard rod bushes arrived today! 
unbolted my panhard rod.
the one side had a 2 piece bush, which simply pushes in and out. with this bush in place it had 5mm of movement in all directions.
the other end has a normal pressed in bearing.
so to remove this bush i tried using the vice with a 13mm socket pushing the bosh one side, and a 32mm socket on the other side.
even with a 3ft piece of scaffold tube slipped over the handle on the vice it still wouldnt go.
next i tried using a drill bit to drill a series of holes through the rubber, managed to drill a few holes but snapped 2 drill bits.
so finally i chose to use fire!
i then used a hacksaw to cut through the metal bearing ring.
before tapping it out with a screw driver and hammer.
i cleaned both ends up with some emery paper, and then began fitting the new bushes!
the wood working vice worked perfectly for pressing the new bushes in.
once the poly bush was in.
i pressed in the metal sleeve.
one side done.
both sides done!
and re-fitted the panhard rod.
before any one says anything yes i know the split pins missing from the castled nut!
i wish id thought to change the panhard rod bushes when i first had the death wobble over a year ago!
not going to fit the new rear panhard rod bushes just yet, as i dont feel theres any need.
the super pro bushes are exactly the same colour as the ironman ones. i wonder if super pro make the ironman ones.
anyway all fixed now and driving beautifully!
unbolted my panhard rod.
the one side had a 2 piece bush, which simply pushes in and out. with this bush in place it had 5mm of movement in all directions.
the other end has a normal pressed in bearing.
so to remove this bush i tried using the vice with a 13mm socket pushing the bosh one side, and a 32mm socket on the other side.
even with a 3ft piece of scaffold tube slipped over the handle on the vice it still wouldnt go.
next i tried using a drill bit to drill a series of holes through the rubber, managed to drill a few holes but snapped 2 drill bits.
so finally i chose to use fire!
i then used a hacksaw to cut through the metal bearing ring.
before tapping it out with a screw driver and hammer.
i cleaned both ends up with some emery paper, and then began fitting the new bushes!
the wood working vice worked perfectly for pressing the new bushes in.
once the poly bush was in.
i pressed in the metal sleeve.
one side done.
both sides done!
and re-fitted the panhard rod.
before any one says anything yes i know the split pins missing from the castled nut!
i wish id thought to change the panhard rod bushes when i first had the death wobble over a year ago!
not going to fit the new rear panhard rod bushes just yet, as i dont feel theres any need.
the super pro bushes are exactly the same colour as the ironman ones. i wonder if super pro make the ironman ones.
anyway all fixed now and driving beautifully!
Red Oktober
Well-Known Member
Nice one Ben ... glad you got it sorted
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ben said:the super pro bushes are exactly the same colour as the ironman ones. i wonder if super pro make the ironman ones.
anyway all fixed now and driving beautifully!
i got some milners panhard rod bushes a while ago and they came with superpro grease, same colour aswell
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Sam said:
thanks Sam.
you can finally stop worrying about me driving my truck.
hairyguy4 said:ben said:the super pro bushes are exactly the same colour as the ironman ones. i wonder if super pro make the ironman ones.
anyway all fixed now and driving beautifully!
i got some milners panhard rod bushes a while ago and they came with superpro grease, same colour aswell
i thought the milners ones were orange?
what do you think of the milners bushes? they are cheap, a complete set is only £100.
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had quite a long drive in the 70 the other night to a 4x4 club meeting, 40miles each way!
at one point on the way there the death wobble came back momentarily and then vanished again and hasnt been felt/seen since!
just had a good look underneath and it appears that the bushes on the rear panhard rod are totally shot, easily as bad as the front ones were!
so going to change them at the weekend and hopefully that will sort it.
also got 2 oil leaks which i blame on the bad vibrations and shakes caused from the death wobble, as last week when i looked there was only one leak which was the front axle oil seal.
now the oil seal for the front prop onto the transfer box is leaking.
so need to order a few oil seals from milners.
at one point on the way there the death wobble came back momentarily and then vanished again and hasnt been felt/seen since!
just had a good look underneath and it appears that the bushes on the rear panhard rod are totally shot, easily as bad as the front ones were!
so going to change them at the weekend and hopefully that will sort it.
also got 2 oil leaks which i blame on the bad vibrations and shakes caused from the death wobble, as last week when i looked there was only one leak which was the front axle oil seal.
now the oil seal for the front prop onto the transfer box is leaking.
so need to order a few oil seals from milners.
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not had any issues with any of the milners seals ive fitted. so far ive used quite a few, and non of the ones ive fitted have failed.
toyota wanted nearly £80 for 2 seals, where as milners were £4 each.
even if the milners ones arnt as good as the toyota ones, im not going to be ripped off to that extent by toyota.
toyota wanted nearly £80 for 2 seals, where as milners were £4 each.
even if the milners ones arnt as good as the toyota ones, im not going to be ripped off to that extent by toyota.
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Trevor said:
i wish my local main dealer would give me prices as good as those.
the old chap in the parts department in my local main stealer is miserable, grumpy, rude very unhelpful, and always quotes me ridiculous prices.
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decided to do some more on my truck yesterday evening.
decided to change the bushes in the rear panhard rod.
managed to remove the one bolt easily.
but couldnt get the other bolt out easily.
decided it would be a lot easier to remove the wheel to gain better access.
panhard rod removed.
i noticed when i removed the bolts for the rear panhard rod that they were both the same thickness, where as on the front panhard rod, the bolts were different thickness's.
i thought this might be a problem because super pro list the same bushes for both front and rear panhard rod's.
the bolts are too big to fit through the smaller metal sleeve and to small to fit snugly in the through the bigger metal sleeve.
i compared my panhard rod to my spare one.
the bushes on the spare didnt look any better than the ones on the panhard id removed.
took some measurements of what size bushes i need, so hopefully super pro will have the correct bushes, and will be able to swap them for me.
decided to have another go at getting the X-ENG handbrake fitted and working.
disc has got a bit rusty, and transfer oil has leaked everywhere.
bolted the calliper on.
not much clearance between the edges of the disc and the pads, this means that the disc is constantly dragging on the pads when the prop turns.
last time it was catching the pads constantly, it got so hot that it melted the plastic piston in the calliper, so i need to get it so that it doesnt catch at all when the prop turns.
going to have another go at adjusting it today.
im going to see if i can book a week off work over the next month, want to get a front ARB locker fitted, as i figured the longer i put off buying one the less use i will get out of it in the long run, so i may aswell just buy one now!
also want to sort out the rust that is coming through the hammerite and underseal on the underside of the vehicle. not very impressed with how these products have performed, so wont be using them again.
going to buy a load of dinitrol seen as people have had such good results with it, and spend the week getting the underside sorted out.
decided to change the bushes in the rear panhard rod.
managed to remove the one bolt easily.
but couldnt get the other bolt out easily.
decided it would be a lot easier to remove the wheel to gain better access.
panhard rod removed.
i noticed when i removed the bolts for the rear panhard rod that they were both the same thickness, where as on the front panhard rod, the bolts were different thickness's.
i thought this might be a problem because super pro list the same bushes for both front and rear panhard rod's.
the bolts are too big to fit through the smaller metal sleeve and to small to fit snugly in the through the bigger metal sleeve.
i compared my panhard rod to my spare one.
the bushes on the spare didnt look any better than the ones on the panhard id removed.
took some measurements of what size bushes i need, so hopefully super pro will have the correct bushes, and will be able to swap them for me.
decided to have another go at getting the X-ENG handbrake fitted and working.
disc has got a bit rusty, and transfer oil has leaked everywhere.
bolted the calliper on.
not much clearance between the edges of the disc and the pads, this means that the disc is constantly dragging on the pads when the prop turns.
last time it was catching the pads constantly, it got so hot that it melted the plastic piston in the calliper, so i need to get it so that it doesnt catch at all when the prop turns.
going to have another go at adjusting it today.
im going to see if i can book a week off work over the next month, want to get a front ARB locker fitted, as i figured the longer i put off buying one the less use i will get out of it in the long run, so i may aswell just buy one now!
also want to sort out the rust that is coming through the hammerite and underseal on the underside of the vehicle. not very impressed with how these products have performed, so wont be using them again.
going to buy a load of dinitrol seen as people have had such good results with it, and spend the week getting the underside sorted out.
AndyCook
Well-Known Member
"also want to sort out the rust that is coming through the hammerite and underseal on the underside of the vehicle. not very impressed with how these products have performed, so wont be using them again.
going to buy a load of dinitrol seen as people have had such good results with it, and spend the week getting the underside sorted out."
I havent been very impressed with hammerite either, its just not good enough for chassis or underbody, chips off.
its not resistant to oil and fuel either.
i placed an order for a load of dinitrol products on friday
going to buy a load of dinitrol seen as people have had such good results with it, and spend the week getting the underside sorted out.
"I havent been very impressed with hammerite either, its just not good enough for chassis or underbody, chips off.
its not resistant to oil and fuel either.
i placed an order for a load of dinitrol products on friday
wobbly
Well-Known Member
Underseal and hammerite wont stop rust. If anything, on an older chassis they make the problem worse as they hide what is happening.
Even galvanizing an old chassis wont cure the problem, for the same reason, although this is generally accepted as a cure of biblical proportions. Much has to do with the quality of the original chassis of course, one of the reasons I believe old landies are so susceptible to rust is the poor quality of the metal used. One would hope toyotas are more resilient, but there is a thread on this very topic at the moment.
You need to clean all the crud out of the chassis and then inject it with a product - a 50% mix of waxoil and sump oil was standard when I was in Norway, although this is now almost certainly illegal
As you use your truck for fairly heavy duty off-roading I would imagine theres mud in all those little crevices. Water is probably the only way to clean it, but then you have damp in there as well, so you need to use a damp-displacing product after (I dont know the properties of dinitrol).
I would be interested to hear how others get on with dinitrol on the chassis, I guess its a stabilizer which prevents rust continuing, but the chassis needs prepping first? I have seen gel like products which can be painted on to an afflicted area which make the rust go black, and claim to prevent further rust by cutting off the oxygen, but I used these on an old citroen which rusted for pleasure, so not a good test.
My chassis is very clean, but as its a jap imort its untreated, so I am also considering having a waxoil type treatment and the chassis treated externally.
I guess the only way to really guard against rust is to remove the chassis, get it thoroughly cleaned, and then galvanised, but even then, in a heavy duty off-road situation, scratches and damage will occur, which will breach the galvanise.
Pete
Even galvanizing an old chassis wont cure the problem, for the same reason, although this is generally accepted as a cure of biblical proportions. Much has to do with the quality of the original chassis of course, one of the reasons I believe old landies are so susceptible to rust is the poor quality of the metal used. One would hope toyotas are more resilient, but there is a thread on this very topic at the moment.
You need to clean all the crud out of the chassis and then inject it with a product - a 50% mix of waxoil and sump oil was standard when I was in Norway, although this is now almost certainly illegal
As you use your truck for fairly heavy duty off-roading I would imagine theres mud in all those little crevices. Water is probably the only way to clean it, but then you have damp in there as well, so you need to use a damp-displacing product after (I dont know the properties of dinitrol).
I would be interested to hear how others get on with dinitrol on the chassis, I guess its a stabilizer which prevents rust continuing, but the chassis needs prepping first? I have seen gel like products which can be painted on to an afflicted area which make the rust go black, and claim to prevent further rust by cutting off the oxygen, but I used these on an old citroen which rusted for pleasure, so not a good test.
My chassis is very clean, but as its a jap imort its untreated, so I am also considering having a waxoil type treatment and the chassis treated externally.
I guess the only way to really guard against rust is to remove the chassis, get it thoroughly cleaned, and then galvanised, but even then, in a heavy duty off-road situation, scratches and damage will occur, which will breach the galvanise.
Pete
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hammerite is rubbish Andy.
its not that long since i did all the body work. the new metal was all coated in red oxide primer, and a few coats of hammerite followed by underseal, and already rust is coming through everywhere, and i havnt done that many miles in it really.
just been looking at the dintrol website and even with the club 10% discount, it works out cheaper to buy it from dintrol via ebay!
Pete, the metal that now has surface rust was all new metal that i welded on to the body. as ive said above it was red oxide primed followed by a few coats of hammerite and underseal. i agree that the sort of off roading i do doesnt help, but surely it must be possible to prevent future rust and hopefully preserve my truck for many years to come.
hopefully dintrol will be the answer.
ive got 10 litres of used engine oil in my garage that will be getting poured into both chassis rails and sills. i will then drive forward and and backwards erraticly a few times and hopefully the oil will slosh backwards and forwards and coat all the internal areas of sill and chassis rail.
its not that long since i did all the body work. the new metal was all coated in red oxide primer, and a few coats of hammerite followed by underseal, and already rust is coming through everywhere, and i havnt done that many miles in it really.
just been looking at the dintrol website and even with the club 10% discount, it works out cheaper to buy it from dintrol via ebay!
Pete, the metal that now has surface rust was all new metal that i welded on to the body. as ive said above it was red oxide primed followed by a few coats of hammerite and underseal. i agree that the sort of off roading i do doesnt help, but surely it must be possible to prevent future rust and hopefully preserve my truck for many years to come.
hopefully dintrol will be the answer.
ive got 10 litres of used engine oil in my garage that will be getting poured into both chassis rails and sills. i will then drive forward and and backwards erraticly a few times and hopefully the oil will slosh backwards and forwards and coat all the internal areas of sill and chassis rail.
