LJ70 Build Thread!

[Jon Wildsmith]

The fan rarely comes on as it is, if I put the thermal switch on the bottom hose it would never come on as the bottom of the rad never gets warm!

That's why it would be better in the bottom which better reflects how well the radiator is doing its job. If the bottom of the radiator isn't even warm then you don't need the fan on do you I'm not saying the top is a bad place, just that the bottom works better

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Water pump to block bolts are 9 ft.lbf.

Alternator mounting bracket bolts are 15 ft.lbf.

Camshaft timing pulley bolt is 72 ft.lbf.

Idler pulley bolt is 25 ft.lbf.

Timing belt tensioner is 9 ft,lbf.

Remember to remove every trace of the old gasket and any sealant. If you don't, it will leak.

As Dave found out, the electric fan rarely comes on. The rad is large and the system is efficient. The cast in boss on the elbow is there to accept a thermo switch.

Roger

 

[Ben]

thanks guys.

picked up an electric fan this morning, off a diesel vectra.

its a bosch one.

my new kill switch arrived today aswell. bargain at £2.58 delivered!

decided to strip the track rod ends off the new bars today ready for sleeving.
turned out to be a bitch of a job.

they were completely seized solid, but i guess thats what 20 years of british salted roads does.

go them off in the end using a combination of heating with the blow torch, and then quenching them under the tap, loads of WD40, and a 2ft pipe wrench and the vice.

one bar done.

both done.

on closer inspection there both just 3mm thick tubing, so its no wonder they keep bending with the force of turning the 35" tyres.

so the bar in front of the axle, that connects the axle to the steering box, needs to be 730mm long with an inside diameter of 25mm.

the bar behind the axle, that connects the 2 hubs together needs to be 800mm long with an inside diameter of 29mm.

i only realised tonight that the bar behind my axle which i got off an LJ78 is thicker and 40mm longer than the one i got off Karl, which he thought was off a 70.

so decided to use the LJ78 bar thats on now as its thicker, and i know its the right length.

just need some tube now to sleeve them with, and i might fit all new track rod ends .

 

[Gav Peter]

Dude, it'll be the New Year before I can see what we've got in work...

I can't work to your time scales!!!!

 

[wobbly]

With the turbo pipes, can you use sweeping bends instead of 90deg ? Unlike water, gas loses pressure on corners, so a swept bend is a slightly better option.

Was there no difference on the 2.4 with the intercooler fitted?

Pete

 

[Ben]

Dude, it'll be the New Year before I can see what we've got in work...

I can't work to your time scales!!!!

it can wait till new year mate, not in any mad rush.

With the turbo pipes, can you use sweeping bends instead of 90deg ? Unlike water, gas loses pressure on corners, so a swept bend is a slightly better option.

Was there no difference on the 2.4 with the intercooler fitted?

Pete

could possibly use a swept bend.

i was thinking of buying a corner/elbow and then just welding that onto a flange. will have to see what i can find.

it didnt seem to make a huge improvement on the 2.4, if any.

but im hoping for better results this time as there will be a lot less bends and joins.

 

[Ben]

this is what i was thinking of buying, for welding onto a flange for my intercooler.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-50-8-Mild-S ... _777wt_698

 

[wobbly]

Yep, thats a swept bend, will be fine.

I dont know that over such a short run it would actually make much, if any, difference, but if you cover the issue at the planning stage then you can discount it as a possible problem if you dont get the desired improvement.

Pete

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Adding an inter-cooler to an engine will not, on its own, produce any significant increase in power or torque. To take any advantage of the possible increase in air delivered to the engine, you need to increase the fuel flow.

Toyota did one version of the 3 litre engine with a OE inter-cooler fitted. It would be interesting to check the Toyota figures for power and torque.

Maybe Rosco has the details?

Roger

 

[Ben]

i havnt been able to do much on my truck this week, due to the fact it has rained every single day! the joys of winter in the UK.

today started off dry and bright, so i decided i could get some done on my truck.

back bumper was in serious need of a paint, and was looking a little battered and rusty in places.

got it off and into the garage. then used a flap wheel disc in the grinder to clean off any rust.
then it was ready for a coat of red oxide paint on any bare metal.

next job was the rock sliders. id noticed that the rear supports on both sliders was catching on the sills slightly when the truck articulates off road, and the body flexes on its rubber mounts.

this had resulted in a small bit of rust, and an annoying creaking when off road.

so slider off.

and notched the sill using a grinder.

it then started raining AGAIN!

so i gave the rear bumper a coat of black paint.

onto the next sill/slider.

i then used a wire brush on the sill both sides around where id cut, and anywhere i could see rust. it then had a good coat of rust killer, and when that was dry i gave it a good coat of underseal and made sure i got loads on the sill where the front and rear skin join.

im going to pour a couple of litres of used engine oil in each sill, and in each chassis leg after i next do an oil change, because theres bits that i know i will have missed with the waxoil sprayer.

gave both sliders a good coat of black paint.

went to the scrap yard the other day, and while i was there i found and bought some intercooler pipes off a shogun that looked useful.

so i should have enough intercooler pipe, for when i connect mine up shortly.

if im not working next weekend i want to fit all my new engine bits, and new rad and then pipe up the intercooler.

once the intercooler's connected id like to up the boost and fuel pressure a bit.

 

[jeepmadmike]

Is that battery switch going to used for the winch?

If it is I wouldn't bother fitting it they tend to melt when you least want them to....

 

[Ben]

the last one melted because it touched the intercooler and earthed out.

the new one will be mounted well away from anything that could short it out.

 

[Gav Peter]

Hey Ben, got some 27mm bore tube for you if you still need some for sleeving the steering arms - its ~3mm wall thickness, galvanised finish...

Not so much on the 25mm bore though Will ask around...

 

[Ben]

thanks for the kind offer Gav.

but................i found a piece of the exact same stuff today at work. i think its an off cut from some hand rails we fitted last year. but im not sure if its thick enough wall.

im thinking that if im going to the trouble of sleeving them, i dont want them bending again EVER!

the steering bars are currently made of 3mm wall tube, so really i want to be adding +5mm.

 

[Gav Peter]

I'll check some of the pipe books in the morning to see what sizes & wall thicknesses are available - you can get some fairly heavy wall steam pipes but its matching the bore to your OD that may be the problem

 

[Ben]

thanks mate.

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Are you just going to slip the bigger pipe over and leave it 'loose' or are you going to weld them? You could use a thinner walled tube that is slightly over sized, drilled along it's length for rosette welds which when you weld should make a very strong structure but is more work than a thick wall tube slipped over it

 

[Ben]

was going to slip a bigger tube over the existing bars, and then weld around the ends.

 

[Chris]

You can get Red Band with 25mm ID and 4.05 wall. Standard hollow round comes in 26.9 with wall at 3.2mm

Could you shove a piece of round bar down the middle as well so that the centre section wasn't actually hollow?

Chris

 

[jeepmadmike]

But red band will have a a weld along it's length? It's going to be an interference fit

Have you looked what CDS tube is available?