Need schooling on power output after certain upgrades - HELP!

[CJBNomad8654]

Roger,

Ever thought of buying an old one, designing that, have somebody make you a nice version and patenting it? It's not just here, but in forums worldwide that this very same topic is covered with varying degrees of success in adjustment, from math equations to sharpie marks, from raising the unit attached to the firewall to adding an extension pipe to the axle fitting. It sounds like yo have engineered a decent solution. I'd like to see pics of your setup; probably too late for how you made it, but if you did make another one it would be cool to see how you went about it.

 

[CJBNomad8654]

Wouldn't you know if the proportioning valve was not adjusted? The valve, as I have read just has a low and high pressure side, and is used the separate the front and rear brakes. If the pressure is not equalized on both sides then the piston slides to one side and causes the brake warning light to come on. It sounded as if you could just bleed the rear brake lines to equalize the pressure. Lengthening the line at the axle would cause you to need more fluid wouldn't it? Lowering the valve would also equalize the pressure.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Wouldn't you know if the proportioning valve was not adjusted? The valve, as I have read just has a low and high pressure side, and is used the separate the front and rear brakes. If the pressure is not equalized on both sides then the piston slides to one side and causes the brake warning light to come on. It sounded as if you could just bleed the rear brake lines to equalize the pressure. Lengthening the line at the axle would cause you to need more fluid wouldn't it? Lowering the valve would also equalize the pressure.

Not necessarily. Under normal situations, approx 70% of the braking is done by the front brakes alone. The valve is controlled by the lever system that connects the valve to the back axle. The greater the load in the back of the motor, the more deflection there is on the lever and the piston inside the valve moves upward and this increases the available pressure to the back brakes. If you brake hard, the front of the motor moves down and the back moves up. This moves the piston downwards, the allowable pressure is reduced and the back brakes don't lock up. This is the principle and if it is adjusted properly it will be fine for all levels of load that the vehicle carries. Over time though, it may wear to the point that it is no longer adjusted correctly. If you raise the motor by the standard 50mm, this will effectively reduce the pressure to the back brakes so that they are basically useless. In the Toyota workshop manual there is a procedure to adjust the system but the chances of a franchise having it is remote. I would imagine that they would use an MoT brake tester or farm it out to a brake specialist.

Roger

 

[CJBNomad8654]

Must read more! Makes sense what you are saying. How does one find these workshop manuals? Patience and luck?

 

[Paul]

Some good write ups on this on lcool

http://www.lcool.org/technical/80_series/brake.html

 

[Paul]

Not a bad place for info either

http://www.offroad80s.com/index.php

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Must read more! Makes sense what you are saying. How does one find these workshop manuals? Patience and luck?

I acquired a full set of manuals for free when I bought the car (both from a Toyota dealer) but at the time, 16 odd years ago, the set cost close to £250. Some are still available from dealers but the rest is Ebay territory.

Roger

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Some good write ups on this on lcool

http://www.lcool.org/technical/80_series/brake.html

Note that they use a brake pressure gauge.

Roger

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

80 series manuals are available in lots of places online, the majority copied from the links below:

RM172E - 1PZ, 1HZ, 1HD-T ENGINE REPAIR MANUAL is available from www.mudtoys.com/manuals/RM172E.pdf (31MB)
RM184E - REPAIR MANUAL FOR CHASSIS & BODY is available from www.mudtoys.com/manuals/RM184E.pdf (121MB)
RM314E - A442F AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION REPAIR MANUAL (Aug 1992) is available from www.mudtoys.com/manuals/RM314E.pdf (16MB)
RM314E SUPPLEMENT (Jan 1995) is available from www.mudtoys.com/manuals/RM314E-1995-Supplement.pdf (3MB)
RM315E - REPAIR MANUAL SUPPLEMENT FOR CHASSIS & BODY (Aug 1992), minus 70series EWD's, is available from www.mudtoys.com/manuals/RM315E.pdf (70MB)
RM437E - 1HD-FT ENGINE REPAIR MANUAL (Jan 1995), is available from www.mudtoys.com/manuals/RM437E.pdf (120MB)

I have others but have not finished scanning them yet.

 

[CJBNomad8654]

Sorry for the delayed responses. I was in the hospital. Thanks for the resources. I'll catch up on the links. I am impressed with the manual links. I guess my search terminology isn't quite up-to-par.

 

[CJBNomad8654]

OK, wow! I just realized those are links to the actual manuals. You're a good man Jon. Thanks

 

[CJBNomad8654]

Check my webpage for an update and thanks to guys from the forum. I'm positive I will receive more help as the clock continues to tick.

http://safari-expeditions.com/2013/...e-forum-contributors-and-book-recommendation/

 

[CJBNomad8654]

Solved - Breaks needed bedding and power loss due to all of the things mentioned in the threads - higher profile, larger size tires. All is good. Now a winch riddle: I was taught that at a minimum you should have a winch that will pull 1.5 times the vehicle weight when fully loaded.I am outfitting a 1997 LC 80-Series for an overland trip. The factory weight is 2500kg. That alone is already a bit over for an 8000lbs winch. This suggestion is supposed to be a straight line pull, not with the cable doubled back. So, if I outfit the vehicle with the ARB 80 Series front bullbar with Warn winch, ARB rear bumper with wheel carrier and jerry can holder, 166l fuel tank, two Outback drawers, 70L fridge, cargo cage, dual battery system, compressor, roof rack, RTT, and necessary recovery accessories, what size winch do I need? For some reason ARB does not list the weights for its bumpers, bullbars, or accessories so I am asking for peoples experience and whether they have weighed their vehicle when fully loaded. I'm asking because the store I am at is trying to help me save some money on the build and said the 8000lbs would be enough, but according to the recommended size that is barely enough to pull the factory - showroom floor - version on the 80 series.