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New Member - Mitch

Here is a photo of my hilux, I have taken off the roof basket and HID lights, ill be looking at building my own steel tray with lift off canvas canopy in the next few months if I don't get too into the FJ40 first.

20151223_175657_zpsmu2xpbjo.jpg
 
Mitch- looks like a keeper!,
Hope you have a Mig and can weld! ( It may sound like $$ to get set up welding yourself but it will save heaps on paying someone to do it for you).
After blasting get her primed even though you will be cutting out out sections you don't want the rust to start in again over the time it takes to repair the nasty spots.
I'd go for a 1HDFT and box out of the last Turbo'd Utes!! that will get her up and boogying!
Have fun mate she will be a little ripper when your done!
 
Nekros said:
Mitch- looks like a keeper!,
Hope you have a Mig and can weld! ( It may sound like $$ to get set up welding yourself but it will save heaps on paying someone to do it for you).
After blasting get her primed even though you will be cutting out out sections you don't want the rust to start in again over the time it takes to repair the nasty spots.
I'd go for a 1HDFT and box out of the last Turbo'd Utes!! that will get her up and boogying!
Have fun mate she will be a little ripper when your done!
Click to expand...

cheers mate,
yeah that is my intention, I have built a 1 and a half car shed just for the project so once I get her she will probably sit idle for a few months while I get a nice big tool box on wheels and all the welding and cutting equipment I need, being a builder I have a lot of tools but when it comes to the tools ill need for this I wont have it, my intention was to yeah get it blasted and primed up which im assuming the sand blasting places could do? and then go from there, one of my best mates is a spray painter by trade too but ill be looking into the rhino liner products for the underneath of the car and aswell as in side footwells, as for the motor I am leaning towards doing an 100% original restoration so ill be probably stripping the motor I have and re building it as well as every nut and bolt on it, will be a slow process but I think it will be one where ill learn a fuck load and can take that to the next build that I decide to do.
 
Looking good although not so good that someone's been bodging in places. There looks like parts there you might want to remove and have copied before they get blasted to bits if those roof rails are as bad as they look.
 
StarCruiser said:
Looking good although not so good that someone's been bodging in places. There looks like parts there you might want to remove and have copied before they get blasted to bits if those roof rails are as bad as they look.
Click to expand...

cheers mate, she is in to be honest not the best shape, but she is a 68 and bloody old lol, yeah i will be doing a steady tear down and seeing what it is happening, yeah i know the dude seems to be abit clueless with what he has done thus far, but whatever gremlins re there ill just have to deal with it and go from there. I'm up for the challenge, I'm in it for the long haul :)
 
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Ahem…there's nothing 'Old' about being made in '68 I'll have you know…[emoji35][emoji6]

You can go off some people…[emoji4]
 
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StarCruiser said:
Looking good although not so good that someone's been bodging in places. There looks like parts there you might want to remove and have copied before they get blasted to bits if those roof rails are as bad as they look.
Click to expand...

Star, any tips to look for? what parts stand out that you think i should remove and blast? cheers mate
 
What do we think? I think the 40's are the best looking vehicle Mr T ever produced. When I see them, I want to hug them as much as drive them. Sadly, never had the pleasure :lol:

IMO It looked much better rusty and green than it does shiny and blue over rust.

You have a lot of work ahead of you, but you'll end up with a beauty, and all your own work.

Great project, looking at this with interest, when you get it...
 
clivehorridge said:
What do we think? I think the 40's are the best looking vehicle Mr T ever produced. When I see them, I want to hug them as much as drive them. Sadly, never had the pleasure :lol:

IMO It looked much better rusty and green than it does shiny and blue over rust.

You have a lot of work ahead of you, but you'll end up with a beauty, and all your own work.

Great project, looking at this with interest, when you get it...
Click to expand...

I agree mate, i can't wait to get it! yeah so did i! i really do prefer he just left it as it was and not start painting but thats what you get for $1000 :)
I certainly do have a lot of work ahead of me but it will be something that i will have forever and will remember the hard work and fun i had building her!
25th of feb is departure date and pick up on 27th feb!
 
MitchScheele said:
Star, any tips to look for? what parts stand out that you think i should remove and blast? cheers mate
Click to expand...

I'm not the best to ask, and TBH its not right for me to assess something from a photo. You really need to inspect the parts clinically and methodically. I would blast all that will not be damaged on the bodywork and chassis and take the advice of your blaster and spray buddy.

You want to keep it original, which is the way to go, so repair what you can and replace what is beyond repair. Obviously anything that has rusted to the point it is losing its strength has to be removed and replaced with new metal made to fit exactly the space it needs to go not planted over the top like the previous guy has.

If you want to weld it, pop yourself on a course, get a recommended welder and practice, practice, practice (on spare metal the same thickness as the vehicle) until you get good and can work on the vehicle.

It was the roof surrounds that looked fragile but it might just be that they've got a good even coating of surface rust.

I would replace everything the previous owner has done as a matter of course looking at the state of some of the repairs.

As a builder the tolerances are half a brick, as a metal fabricator the tolerances are probably 1-2mm. [emoji4]

There's various thoughts in the programme matter but search 'Wheeler Dealers' on YouTube. The mechanic (Ed) sometimes does some bodywork and the way he welds and fabricated metal will offer some insight into what is required. There various programmes to choose from if you can view down under (you might need to turn the screen up the other way [emoji6]).
 
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Hi Mitch,

I had a good look at the photos and, even though the previous guy has been something of an animal, you do not appear to have any unusual places for the rot which I would take as a very good sign.

Judging by the rear shots you will probably find that the rear body cross member is shot but it's repairable/replaceable.
Mud gets in between the front wings and the wing support and rots them from the inside out. We split the spot welds between the inner and outer wing and re-secured them with plates and stainless bolts so that they are easy to remove and clean. But if you are not going to use it in adverse conditions then regular cleaning will do. Also worth checking in behind the front valance as dirt accumulates there and they rot from the inside out.

If the climate is humid where you are, take the advice of the painter mate because primer is porous and standing around for a long period, even indoors, will mean stripping it off again. Maybe worth considering coating it blasted panels with Metal Ready or something similar. Several companies make floor pan repair panels.

It is a good basis by the looks of it and I shall follow your progress with interest and if I can be of help, shout up.

Regards,
 
StarCruiser said:
I'm not the best to ask, and TBH its not right for me to assess something from a photo. You really need to inspect the parts clinically and methodically. I would blast all that will not be damaged on the bodywork and chassis and take the advice of your blaster and spray buddy.

You want to keep it original, which is the way to go, so repair what you can and replace what is beyond repair. Obviously anything that has rusted to the point it is losing its strength has to be removed and replaced with new metal made to fit exactly the space it needs to go not planted over the top like the previous guy has.

If you want to weld it, pop yourself on a course, get a recommended welder and practice, practice, practice (on spare metal the same thickness as the vehicle) until you get good and can work on the vehicle.

It was the roof surrounds that looked fragile but it might just be that they've got a good even coating of surface rust.

I would replace everything the previous owner has done as a matter of course looking at the state of some of the repairs.

As a builder the tolerances are half a brick, as a metal fabricator the tolerances are probably 1-2mm. [emoji4]

There's various thoughts in the programme matter but search 'Wheeler Dealers' on YouTube. The mechanic (Ed) sometimes does some bodywork and the way he welds and fabricated metal will offer some insight into what is required. There various programmes to choose from if you can view down under (you might need to turn the screen up the other way [emoji6]).
Click to expand...

Thanks Star,
I think that because of my lack of experience with cars I honestly don't have a choice but to break it down clinically and methodically taking photos and sorting it all correctly other wise I think I will spiral and fall way behind to which I will have to get help which I don't want, once this is done I will have to analyse each individual piece for what it is. I'm fortunate to have a close mate who is an exceptional welder, however I don't want him to do it for me but he is more than happy to show and teach me as I help him out finding him work when he is quiet so I am somewhat in luck in that regard. I think the roof in my major worry at this point as I have a 18hour trailer ride home with it I think im going to have to place so well thought out straps everywhere to avoid loosing the roof in transit which is the last thing that I want to happen!

Hahaha half a brick never hurt no one! haha nah as I want this perfect and It will be my own project ill be extremely harsh on myself with tolerances so I will be starting to shop for a mig and do a few practice projects building before I even contemplate the car :)

yeah im going to do a lot of youtube research and im going to have to build an upside down chair for me and the mrs to watch them ;)

haha thanks Star!
 
Rodger said:
Hi Mitch,

I had a good look at the photos and, even though the previous guy has been something of an animal, you do not appear to have any unusual places for the rot which I would take as a very good sign.

Judging by the rear shots you will probably find that the rear body cross member is shot but it's repairable/replaceable.
Mud gets in between the front wings and the wing support and rots them from the inside out. We split the spot welds between the inner and outer wing and re-secured them with plates and stainless bolts so that they are easy to remove and clean. But if you are not going to use it in adverse conditions then regular cleaning will do. Also worth checking in behind the front valance as dirt accumulates there and they rot from the inside out.

If the climate is humid where you are, take the advice of the painter mate because primer is porous and standing around for a long period, even indoors, will mean stripping it off again. Maybe worth considering coating it blasted panels with Metal Ready or something similar. Several companies make floor pan repair panels.

It is a good basis by the looks of it and I shall follow your progress with interest and if I can be of help, shout up.

Regards,
Click to expand...

Thanks Rodger,

I am still yet to understand the logic in the current owners way in building, I would have though at least grind the surface rust off but apparently not lol. pretty much everything that he is done will addressed with a sand blaster and restarted. I will be sure to have a look at the rear member and wings as you have said to see what the damage is, like I said I have paid $1000 for this and I know there are going to be gremlins everywhere but ill take it as a challenge and character building for me and the car to get to know each other ;)
you make a very good point with the primer which I will address when I get to the stage to see what is recommended, I will be working on the body before I go near the chassis and running gear however this will still be most likely a year long process as I have a new born child which I will be spending as much time as I can with along the way.

Thanks for your help mate, ill be sure to hit you up for any help where needed, cause im gunna need my fair share of it :)

Cheers
 
Hi Mitch,

Just one point from your response...

Sand blasting is very harsh and will leave 'salt' deposit on the metal, however well it is cleaned after and it can distort unsupported panels like the rear side panels. May I suggest either bead or soda blasting. Soda blasting is the kindest to the metal but takes longer but in the long term creates less cleaning work as the remnants will just wash out.

Well two...

The hardtop - using old blankets and wood supports the h/top will strap underneath the chassis between the wheels and there is space between the frame and body to get straps. Much less wind force down there - just a thought...

Cheers
 
Rodger said:
Hi Mitch,

Just one point from your response...

Sand blasting is very harsh and will leave 'salt' deposit on the metal, however well it is cleaned after and it can distort unsupported panels like the rear side panels. May I suggest either bead or soda blasting. Soda blasting is the kindest to the metal but takes longer but in the long term creates less cleaning work as the remnants will just wash out.

Well two...

The hardtop - using old blankets and wood supports the h/top will strap underneath the chassis between the wheels and there is space between the frame and body to get straps. Much less wind force down there - just a thought...

Cheers
Click to expand...

Thanks Rodger,
TBH never heard of soda blasting, what is it? I'm keen to have a look at it!

thanks for the ideas on how to strap it but I'm not quiet sure what you mean like i understand blankets for the outer side of the hard top but how do i support the underside of the hard top? if there a mock up you can sort of draw up and show me or something?

cheers mate
 
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