Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

New Tires Needed Advice Appreciated

I have a UK 24V manual and would say that 285/75/16 is the max diameter you can go before the increase in gearing begins to have an impact when towing at approaching 3500 kg on a manual , even without a trailer on steep single track lanes it's noticeable , obviously an auto can cope better due to the TC .
Another thing to note is with 285/75/16's my speedo is spot on at 60mph according to a gps generated speed......beware you have no leeway with speed cameras

Interesting, according to GPS which is 'quite' accurate, my speedo over reads, it shows 126 kph as opposed to a GPS indicated 120 kph.

Speed cameras although rare in Southern Spain, have recently been altered down from allowing a 15kph over the limit and is now down to 8 kph.

Police now have the number plate recognition system as well, so cars with no insurance/ITV (MOT) are being stopped.

regards

Dave
 
Fresh rubber on unfortunately suffered a broken stud on off side this time..Arrr

Can't afterstand why this happens so often...... anyone have any experience on this?

Having new tyres thinking to rotate the tyres on every service but it worries me in getting more studs snapping!!

Thankfully the ride sits better now & doesn't pull to the left anymore. Blissfully quite too in the short time driving so I'm pleased with the change over.

IMG_4249.JPG IMG_4250.JPG IMG_4251.JPG
 
I have come across the stud issue a number of times. I think there are a number of causes.

It could all start with one gorilla with a rattle gun pulling the hell out of the studs. A stud breaks and the owner replaces 'IT'. The remaining over stressed studs now slow but sure snap and each time only one gets replaced. I have had a couple break, coincidently on the rear? I replaced the set and no problems since.

There is also some confusion as to the correct stud lengths available, I have come across three different sizes on my LC, I did mention it awhile back, the front IIRC are longer than the rear but, also found an even shorter version on one of the rear hubs as well.

Rear easy to change, fronts a PITA as the hub/disc assembly has to come off.

regards

Dave
 
I have come across the stud issue a number of times. I think there are a number of causes.

It could all start with one gorilla with a rattle gun pulling the hell out of the studs. A stud breaks and the owner replaces 'IT'. The remaining over stressed studs now slow but sure snap and each time only one gets replaced. I have had a couple break, coincidently on the rear? I replaced the set and no problems since.

There is also some confusion as to the correct stud lengths available, I have come across three different sizes on my LC, I did mention it awhile back, the front IIRC are longer than the rear but, also found an even shorter version on one of the rear hubs as well.

Rear easy to change, fronts a PITA as the hub/disc assembly has to come off.

regards

Dave

Dave the tyre guy took the wheel nuts off by hand this time & but used the gun carefully to put them back without over stressing but another one snapped.

Luckily I have some not new but bought from the breakers some years back as spare. Was told their all the same size front & rear back then.

Using the original Toyota bolt head too from the chrome ones I had on before.
Your right on the rears being easier having change them too & fronts being a hassle for sure.

At this point it could be the studs getting weaker over time mostly aged like the car?
Avoid the pressure gun totally?
Or buy Brand new studs?

Thanks for your advice Dave.
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
There seems to be a lot of interest getting Toyota OEM parts from Amamaya? I think that's spelt right?

Other than that Toyota dealer.

regards

Dave
 
There seems to be a lot of interest getting Toyota OEM parts from Amamaya? I think that's spelt right?

Other than that Toyota dealer.

regards

Dave

Thanks Dave was looking at Rough Trax having search on here.

Quote 'The new studs are 40mm long including the spline, 45mm overall and made of High-Grade 30MnB3 high tensile steel, 10.9 in tensile strength, thread size 12mm x 1.5mm as per standard'.

Will look up the exact front & rear studs via the chassis vin number soon just to understand if there is a difference in length first.

Looks like I need 4 batches (24) in hand another project added to the list. :weary:

IMG_0269.PNG
 
Looks like for just the front wheels only, have a look to see if they have for the rear as well?

regards

Dave
 
Looks like for just the front wheels only, have a look to see if they have for the rear as well?

regards

Dave

Rears they have Dave different size.

Quote 'The new studs are 44mm long including the spline, 49mm overall and made of High-Grade 30MnB3 high tensile steel, 10.9 in tensile strength, thread size 12mm x 1.5mm as per standard'.

Fronts

Quote 'The new studs are 40mm long including the spline, 45mm overall and made of High-Grade 30MnB3 high tensile steel, 10.9 in tensile strength, thread size 12mm x 1.5mm as per standard'.

Here Dave Looks like the Rears are longer!!

IMG_0270.PNG
 
The rears may be longer? I did post up my findings last year when fitting all new discs/pads/callipers etc. So it is a little misty in the grey matter?

regards

Dave
 
There may be those that disagree, but IMO 305 is too wide for an 8" rim. I had 295 on 8" and could feel a sideways deflection (there's probably a term for this that I don't know).

I like 305 on the truck even though there are compromises on power and fuel economy, so I went to 10" rims when I bought a full set of 5.

They grip nicely, sit square on the asphalt, flex well on rocks and do ok in the mud.

The debate of fat vs skinny will rage on forever, I just have an overwhelming preference for fat :lol:

Anyway, the simple point I'm trying to make is the ride is much improved when wider tyres (probably 195 and over) are used on a wider rim, IMO.

Remember i fitted a wheel and tyre from your shed on my truck Clive , was that a 16x10 with 305 / 70 or 75 or something else altogether ?

I'm kicking myself for not taking a photo at the time .
 
Last edited:
The doing up with the rattle gun is the major problem.

The wheel fitter should only use the gun to get the nuts into contact with the wheel. Manual tools should be used from then on. With finishing torque using a torque wrench.

These people have a duty of care and I don't care if it takes them a bit more time to fit the wheels. I do really care if they come loose and fall off with all the consequences to me and other innocent people.
 
It is funny here in Spain watching the tyre fitters using the gun until it stalled and the studs are crying out for relief, and then he will pick up a torque wrench that was lying already 'set' and go around and check the nuts/bolts! :angry-nono:

Unsure where they get their training?


regards

Dave
 
Remember i fitted a wheel and tyre from your shed on my truck Clive , was that a 16x10 with 305 / 70 or 75 or something else altogether ?

I'm kicking myself for not taking a photo at the time .

I seem to remember locking the gate Shayne, so you wouldn't be able to drive off with them fitted :lol:

Yep, They were BFG muds 305/70/16 on 10" wide 16s -20mm offset
 
It is funny here in Spain watching the tyre fitters using the gun until it stalled and the studs are crying out for relief, and then he will pick up a torque wrench that was lying already 'set' and go around and check the nuts/bolts! :angry-nono:
Unsure where they get their training?
regards Dave

I've been lucky, the previous owners don't seem to have abused the studs on mine by over-tightening.

I'm convinced that once they have been abused, there's no going back, they will fail sooner or later, one by one when they feel like.

If I had one or more break on me, I'd be inclined to bite the bullet and replace them all.

The fronts must be a PITA so while doing one, it's the same job to do them all, just a few quid more. But the safety factor is well worth it IMO, losing a wheel is a potential life threatening disaster, not to mention the potential collateral damage.
 
I think the best tyre supplier is a company called Oponeo
Biggest tyre supplier in Europe.
 
Back
Top