Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

New to forum. I have posted a fairly detailed description in the introduction section about my situation.

1bert1

New Member
Joined
May 15, 2021
Messages
4
First I need to confirm the model I am working on. I know it is a 1970 Land Cruiser. I think it is a FJ45 series with a 8R-F engine. It is a 4x4 hardtop, column shift manual, with 11,500 original miles on it. I am fixing this for my cousin. Her late father bought this new in 1970. From what she told me, it sounded like it had been run in the last 6 months so I assumed I could get it running in a day. She lives 90 miles away so I am trying to get it going as quickly and reliably as possible. So on my first trip I pumped out 10 gallons of lacquered gas. The carb was so clogged with bad gas that there is no way it ran 6 months ago. I cleaned the jets and freed the float etc.
I had to stop there because I am getting no ignition. I replaced the points, condenser and I stopped at the points because when I replaced them with a new set they do not line up correctly. I don't want to start bending anything so has anyone else run into that problem? It seems that a spacer is missing from under the base where the screw to set the point gap goes. If so, it is gone and does anyone know the thickness and size of the spacer? Thanks
The Chilton manual shows 2 screws that hold the point assembly down on the distributor but it only shows the 4 cylinder distributor not the 6 cylinder. What is happening is the point on the spring side is about 1/4 of the diameter of the points higher than the other point. Here is a picture of the point assembly I bought. Is there supposed to be 2 screws or only the gap adjustment screw?

 
Last edited:
I guess it is a FJ40. This is the model and condition it is in except the paint is a little faded and it is light blue. I am thinking when I go back down there next week I will pull the points back out and make sure the spring side is completely seated. I had gapped the points to .46mm and was getting spark but it was weak. I had to order a new rotor and cap that will be in next Thursday. I have a new coil, plugs, and wires. I already installed new condenser with the points. I am hoping if I pull the points back out I can get them to seat further down on the "post" lining them up so I can feel better about gapping them properly.

 
Hi Bert, I posted on your other thread before seeing this one, you’ve beaten me to it with the lacquer problem, the ethanol in US pump gas is a pain.
If you’ve solved the fuel system problems, then it should run when you’ve sorted the ignition.

Are you sure the points are the correct set for the distributor? If they don’t seat properly, then they sound like the wrong ones to me.

Best of luck... the truck sounds like a beauty... :icon-biggrin:
 
Hi Bert, The first thing that strikes me is that the parts supplied maybe for a 2F engine whereas the 1970 model FJ had an F engine. For an F the plugs should be Denso W17ES or NGK B5ES with a gap of .031in. Points gap should be .018in. Later models had a semi-transistorized system. There is a fusible link in the ignition system so if no spark at all it's worth checking.
I have a Haynes manual '68-'82 and will scan relevant pages if that helps you.
That is a great truck.

Regards,

Rodger
 
Back
Top