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Pneumatic difflock actuator

Why would one convert?

Miles cheaper than an original replacement unit and probably more durable. If your truck is prepped up with air its a no brainer, if its not and you need diff locks then you probably need air as well.
Can't see a downside??
 
The only downside I see is those cylinders are aluminium construction and take tiny tubes and fittings (5mm threads or thereabouts) to connect to them so would need to be protected well from salt and mechanical damage. Having said that, they would be readily available and easy to change
 
Personally I would also fit some switches to show when it has engaged properly.
 
You can get the individual parts on Ebay a lot cheaper if you dont mind a fiddle with using the existing connecting rod from your old actuator. I dont know what the waterproofing spec is of the unit but I would imagine that the air pressure would exceed the water pressure. some of these pneumatic units can work on either pressurised air or vacuum so you could potentially run them off your air intake like the shogun and use a set of vacuum solenoids also off a shogun (which you can get at the scrappy for about £10). You dont need an extra switch as when it engages as the exisiting switch will still work. Its a good price for the package I think and if it only lasts a few years then what to heck. you only need to change the cyclinder not everything else...
 
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Miles cheaper than an original replacement unit and probably more durable. If your truck is prepped up with air its a no brainer, if its not and you need diff locks then you probably need air as well.
Can't see a downside??

I see. Given a stock truck with working difflocks, it's a case of waiting for the OEM to break and then consider air plumbing? Presumably then replacing the rest of the diffs to match.
 
Nice spot Gav. Amazing that things like this are out THERE but not on HERE

Someone who's not a member but sufficiently interested in Cruisers to make something like that.
 
I think he is a green oval man who fits 80 series axles to them. Hence the need for a different actuation method.

Ian
 
Those actuators are made by smc are well made and you can't get rebuild kits easily. The price is very good for what you are getting and the cost of the plate to be made.

Don't forget you will need actuators solenoids on top of this.
 

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I see. Given a stock truck with working difflocks, it's a case of waiting for the OEM to break and then consider air plumbing? Presumably then replacing the rest of the diffs to match.
Maybe I should clarify my post, they would be a good idea if a replacement is needed, however I, like yourself can't see any point in converting if the OEM diff actuators are in perfect working order, along with the rest of the diffs too.
 
Ian, yes that would make sense. I'm with you. Why put Cruiser axles on a Landy when you can have a Cruiser with them on? OK let's not go there.
 
Those actuators are made by smc are well made and you can't get rebuild kits easily. The price is very good for what you are getting and the cost of the plate to be made.

Don't forget you will need actuators solenoids on top of this.


Mitsibushi shogun has twin air solendoid valves (negative switched) mounted on the drivers wheel arch. Easy to get from any breakers
 
Just started fitting a set of the ones Gav posted today. They aren't bad, rear one is very easy to fit, to fit the front one it's diff out witch is no big deal
 
I fitted ARB's to my LR Disco and they were very good but, given the cost they were not as reliable as my stock LC units, silly leaks, diff oil coming out of the solenoids etc. I like a mod but also love the tried and trusted reliability of the OE units, 21 + years old on mine and still work OK, they simply need some 'exercise' once in awhile.

regards

Dave
 
I need to decide what way to go with my 80, fit a set factory lockers, some sort of E locker or go with the ARB locker. I have the ARB lockers in my 70 series and they have been problem free to be fair
 
In terms of strength I never broke an ARB and I used the car very successfully in competition but, it was the niggly things that got on my nerves, something the 80 has never given me. Having said that the LR in itself seemed to need constant fettling, the 80 simply built better with stronger components.

regards

Dave
 
What's wrong with using a sheathed cable and a simple lever on the tranny tunnel?
 
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