Pre load and locking nut size with manual hub.

[Edpickett]

Hi,
Does anyone know the size of the Pre-load and locking nuts allowing removal /fitting the front hubs.

Has anyone used a fisherman's spring scale as a tension gauge to load the wheel bearing preload?

Ed

 

[Roger Fairclough]

52mm A/F and yes, you should set the preload in accordance with Toyota specs using a spring scale.

Roger

 

[Edpickett]

Hi thanks,

I ended up using water pump pliers and a chisel... I plan to check them again next week. I measured the locker and hub nut at 54mm?

 

[Ben]

It is a 54mm nut.

Dont buy one like this one though:-

http://shop.difflock.com/toyota-54mm-spanner-p-99.html

Its better to get one like this:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LASER-483...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item416aced6d5

Because that one has a 1/2" drive cut out on the end so you can use it with a torque wrench.

 

[Edpickett]

Few yeah... just ordered one of those for 1/2" drive 54mm sockets an hour ago! Do you think the fishing scales will be accurate enough for the Pre-load? I checked them before I dismantled against the FSM (thanks again) And they were at around 3kg before the hub moved (without break calliper)

It was a pleasure to do as everything came undone. The wheel studs were pretty dam tight though!

I think I should replace the callipers starting with the offside as it was well rusted but I got the pots moving and power file sanded the seats. it looked more like the pad seats had rusted up locking the pads... The Milner callipers look reasonable albeit non-genuine, anyone fitted these?

Did you fit your winch, does it involve new fixings etc. I would really like one.

 

[Ben]

I always use fishing spring scales and it seems accurate enough.

Have a look at my build thread, first few pages in. I had a piece of 6 or 8mm steel cut and folded at my local metal fabricators.
I then drilled a few holes in it and bolted it between the chassis rails to form my winch tray.

 

[Edpickett]

Wow Ben that's some serious thread... I will have a good look through. Loads of help and info , well done! Do you think is possible to keep the original bumper look and mount the winch behind?

 

[Ben]

Thanks.

Yes very easy to keep the original bumper and mount the winch behind.

You will just need to cut a slot in the bumper for the winch fairlead. What you could also do is mount the number plate some how so it covers the winch fairlead when not in use, then unclips/pivots out of the way when you want to use the winch.

 

[Edpickett]

54mm socket arrived so I've stripped the hubs again to set the preload on the bearings. Is the Pre
Load taken from the first test after torque setting the preload nut? The second test seems to pull easier? +my torque wrench does't go down to 5.4Nm?? So I've had to guess a little.

Well I decided to pop to Milner and pick up a pair of new brake callipers and went to fit them and woe and behold the union thread on the original ridged pipe is too short in the calliper connection by 4-5mm. So looks like I need to make up 2 new brake pipes, what a ball ache!!! Has anyone come across this before. Can you get longer union threads, does anyone know the union type and thread?
Thanks,

Ed.

 

[Ben]

Hi Ed,

Apologies for not getting back to you sooner, been mega busy today.

So setting the bearing preload on front wheel bearings.....................................

As per the FSM:-

Once youve pushed the hub back on and with both bearing races in place, you put the washer on and then the first 54mm nut.

Torque the nut to 59NM

Turn the hub left and right a few times.

Then loosen the nut until the nut can be turned by hand.

Then tighten the nut again to 59NM.

Then again loosen it until the nut can be turned by hand.

Now your ready to torque the nut to 5.4NM, which is quite low and a lot of gauges dont go that low.

This is the gauge I use.

Now as youve noticed the gauge doesnt go low enough.

So what I do is I wind the torque wrench until its sitting at the lowest mark. In my case 30NM.

I then wind it back from 30NM, 10NM which would obviously be 20NM, then another 10NM till I get to 10NM.

I then wind back until I get to what is effectively 5.4NM. (pic shows 4.5NM. but you get the idea.)

That method always works well for me, and when I then add the lock washer and torque the other nut up, im normally some where near right with the fish scale.

Sometimes I do have to take the second nut and lock washer back off and slacken the first nut off slightly to get it right on the fish scale, but not always.

Personally I find front hubs/axles such a messy job, I'd rather do it exactly to the FSM and then hopefully I wont have to do it again for a while.

Sorry cant help with your brake pipe issue.

 

[Edpickett]

Hi Ben,

Thanks for your advise. All back together now I kinda did similar regarding the torque wrench. That's a handy trick!!
Your right it's a messy job for sure. I borrowed a friends flaring kit and made up some new brake pipes. Milner also gave me £20.00 back as of a good will gesture when I told them about the brake pipe issue. Well it paid for the copper tubing anyways. The flaring kit I borrowed was a nightmare it or (I) kept making f-ups.4hrs worth. I've made pipes before with no problem... Pain. Still its all back together so fingers crossed.
Changed the silencer box at the same time. All the bolts came undone whit a little heat, amazing! Those vibration support nuts were hard to reach.

Timing belt next. I think I'm better buying a genuine Toyota timing belt kit. The Milner one is generic apart from the tensioner.

Brake pedal still seems a little soft I think I need to try the servo service and wash next

Ed

 

[Ben]

Glad your all sorted and truck's back together Ed.

Cant believe it took you 4 hours to make the brake lines up.

I keep meaning to buy a brake flaring kit, really useful thing to have just encase you damage a line while working on the truck.

I've fitted a few non genuine timing belts now and not had any issues, I'm running one at present.

Quite an important thing though, so totally understand you wanting to go genuine.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Sorry for the delay, Viv and I have only just returned from a week in Yorkshire.

Relying on a torque wrench to give accurate readings outside of the scale shown on the wrench is not a good idea. The manufacturer will mark the wrench so that, within the limits shown, the readings will be accurate enough for general engineering work. If a situation arises where an end user needs a degree of higher accuracy, then other methods such as degrees turned can be used.

The initial tightening and loosening of the locating nuts is designed to settle the bearings into place. The 5.4 N.m torque setting is to put you into the right ball park for the pre-load. The pre-load figure is with the lock nut tightened to this figure. Once you have tightened the lock nut, turn the hub by hand left and right about 90 deg. each way. Do this 2-3 times. This will overcome initial stickiness created by the grease. Then take the reading on the spring (fish) scale. This figure should be 6.2-12.6 lbs but err towards the higher figure as the bearings will settle further and this figure will lower.

I note that your brake pedal is still soft. Have you isolated the master cylinder by clamping off the hoses front and back?

Roger

 

[Edpickett]

Hi Rodger,
I haven't done yet. I'm having the underside wax oiled this week/next week

Before I did the brake work it felt more like solid or that's what I seem to recall. I will try isolating method prescribed by yourself and let you know.

One another subject, I was planning to replace the cam belt, and tensioner arrangement. The FSM refers to the removal of the rocker box cover and the removal of the upper and lower pulleys? Must I remove the pulleys or can I line up,pulleys attached as the engine sounds great and then replace the belt and tensioner?

Ed

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Please note that timing belts are not made by Toyota. As long as you buy from a reputable motor factor, you should be OK. I have just bought two fan/generator belts from Sureparts in Redditch. They are made by Goodyear.

You do not need to remove the cam cover or any of the pulley's. Remove the belt cover, turn the engine over so that the c/shaft is at TDC and the cam and fuel pump marks are aligned. Then you can remove the idler and tensioner. My engine has covered 155,000 miles and the tensioner and idler are still OK. Also, I have never used a Toyota belt.

Roger

 

[Edpickett]

I changed the timing belt and idler pulley. What a pleasant straight forward job. I found it helpful to drain 1/2 litre of coolant, remove the top hose, viscous fan, pulley, shroud and belts. (10 min job) It just gives a little more room for examination. The last timing belt did was on a Mitsubishi sigma 3L(don't ask) and the tensioner was a pain in the a** . My idler pulley had a little sideways movement which I didn't like, so i changed it Along with rubber cover gasket and rubber backed fixing washers. Then finished with a sticker on the cover, date and miles.

Have a great Christmas and new year to all!

Proper job!

Satisfaction: 10/10

Next projects:

BF Mud terrain tyres and spare wheels. Or I was thinking of getting some beefy snow chains for periodic wet field/bog work? Any thoughts on the cooper STT tyres etc??? A lot cheaper! Although I had BF All terrains on my 100 and they were pretty good apart from snatching badly in deep puddles! Couldn't wear them down if I tried!

Winch plate and Winch (hidden as possible) to keep original look.

Big Roof rack

Nudge bars.

Etc..

 

[Roger Fairclough]

The use of snow chains is illegal for use in anything but snow. Apart from that it is frowned upon if used on a muddy lane as the damage they cause is horrendous.

Glad it all went OK with the cam belt.

Roger

 

[Edpickett]

Thanks for the tips.
Sorry I was referring to work use on private land, I don't have a 4wd tractor any more and my old power major is a serious mess maker in the boggy peat soil. All i want to do ferry logs from a few fallen trees for fire wood reasons. Do the chains give good grip if used gingerly?

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Thanks for the tips.
Sorry I was referring to work use on private land, I don't have a 4wd tractor any more and my old power major is a serious mess maker in the boggy peat soil. All i want to do ferry logs from a few fallen trees for fire wood reasons. Do the chains give good grip if used gingerly?

Chains will give extra grip depending on application. As it is on private land it's OK but ground damage can be severe.

Merry Christmas and a happy New Year to all our readers.

Roger