Propshaft bolt torque?

[DaveVoorhis]

I'm going to change a few dodgy u-joints. Anybody have the torque settings for the propshaft fasteners, for both ends of both propshafts?

Searching popped up torque settings for 80-series Landcruisers, but I didn't find anything for the 90 series.

 

[Chris]

Not sure I could get a torque wrench in there Dave. Propshafts seem to be a pretty daft - unnecessarily daft - design in relation to getting spanners and sockets on there. I have to admit that I wear welding gauntlets and give them a good tighten with ring spanners to the point where I go 'Nrrgggghhhh!"

Would have thought settings would be roughly the same as an 80 in any case.

Where abouts in the Shire are you?

 

[Rob Cowell]

74Nm (which apparently is too short a message to post)

 

[DaveVoorhis]

Not sure I could get a torque wrench in there Dave.

A hasty eyeball of the situation suggests I might be able to concoct a suitable chain of extensions, but I'll know for sure when I tackle the job after the new u-joints arrive in a day or two.

Where abouts in the Shire are you?

About ten miles north of Derby.

 

[cavanmick]

No point using a torque wrench with extensions as if they are of any length they will absorb some of the torque, as chriss says just tighten till they make you go grrrrrr.

Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk

 

[Towpack]

I can just get a thin walled 3/8 drive socket on the flange bolts (80 series). You can use an extn OK with the torque wrench but, as said, 'a chain' of extns, especially using a UJ for an offset attack will give false torque settings.

 

[SteveS]

No point using a torque wrench with extensions as if they are of any length they will absorb some of the torque, as chriss says just tighten till they make you go grrrrrr.

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So long as the as the extensions etc are 90 degrees to the shaft and the wrench 'clicks' then it doesn't matter - make sure the pressure is smooth - the wrench settings work no matter how you apply the pressure

 

[Chris]

That's the issue though, Getting 90 deg to it and not having the socket rubbing on the yoke. Two spanners and Nuurrggghhnnn really is good enough. I wouldn't do a cylinder head like that, honestly. But prop bolts? Life's complicated enough already.

 

[Trevor]

Did mine this morning, 2 14mm spanners and some copper grease on the threads. Tight, tighten again with some grrr and another final nip up with a louder grrr to finish.

 

[Chris]

Tat second Grrrr is really important Trev.

 

[Trevor]

I have to do one for luck as I'm not as strong as some folk

 

[silvercruiser]

Another for the Grrrr technique and if i remember rightly they have spring washers on them too.

 

[Beau]

Probably worth re-tightening after a thousand miles or so?

 

[Bat21]

Dave, don't listen to all these folks telling you to just tighten it up with a grrrr, it is very hit and miss.

My truck gets used in some of the harshest condition and I always use the arrrrgh method, this is much more accurate an has worked for me every time.

 

[Cptsideways]

M8 metric fine I think, the handbook/service info states what that should be dependent on nut type.

Whatever it is I use long length spanners to do them up FT

 

[DaveVoorhis]

How many grrrr's are in an arrrrgh?

I was thinking of extensions like that at [imagine an URL here that I can't post because I haven't posted 15 posts yet] and using the formulas to calculate the proper torque, but I'm probably being over-cautious. It's not like I'm tightening bolts on a cheese-soft aluminium motorcycle engine, which is my usual DIY target of choice. The chances of warping a heavy-duty steel propshaft flange from overtightening are probably nil even if I use two arrrrghs.

 

[clivehorridge]

I think an arrrrgh is about 2 ft/lbs more than a grrrr, but less than FT.

FT is by definition FT