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Pump timing.......

I think frank is your man on this tp.
 
No idea but unless I'm mistaken, that ad is saying Bosch when the 80s have Denso pumps.
 
:text-imsorry:

Oops! Didn't read it fully!

Useful vid BTW. I bet it takes a lot longer than that with a 80 wrapped around the engine!
 
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The tool in the ad is the right approach. You'll need a dial gauge to fit to it. Also the pipes coming off the pump may get in the way so you may have to remove them. The Toyota tool has a see saw arrangement to get the dial gauge away from the pipes so you don't have to take them off.
 
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I expect you know there are loads of different dial gauges and you won't know which one until you get the tool.
 
…or order it from the same people if they do one perhaps?
 
The tool in the ad is the right approach. You'll need a dial gauge to fit to it. Also the pipes coming off the pump may get in the way so you may have to remove them. The Toyota tool has a see saw arrangement to get the dial gauge away from the pipes so you don't have to take them off.


Thanks Frank.
I already have a couple of dial gauges so hopefully one will be suitable. The OEM Toyota SST isn't cheap so, even if I have to buy another gauge,it'll still work out much cheaper.
The FSM does show the removal of a couple of the injector pipe unions to facilitate access.
I'm having another go at locating the sound of the intermittent engine tick/tap. I don't really think it's a timing issue but I've ruled out the most obvious possibilities so I'll try anything. I also have a new OP relief valve and spring as they have been mentioned. Again an unlikely culprit but the parts were cheap (under £10) so I'll fit them.
 
You have to defeat the ACSD by inserting a bar as shown in the WSM. What they don't say is that it does not matter if you use a thicker bar than the one they use. Once you've moved the lever with their bar it's defeated. Once it's defeated it's defeated so if you use a thicker bar and have to turn the spindle more it does not matter.

Re the ticking you could run the engine cold and turn the ACSD spindle as far as it will go anticlockwise mimicking the thermo wax coming out plus a lot more. If the ticking goes this means the thermo wax is not coming out far enough and not turning the spindle enough to bring it off the advance/retard pin inside the pump.
 
Thanks Frank.
I already have a couple of dial gauges so hopefully one will be suitable. The OEM Toyota SST isn't cheap so, even if I have to buy another gauge,it'll still work out much cheaper.
The FSM does show the removal of a couple of the injector pipe unions to facilitate access.
I'm having another go at locating the sound of the intermittent engine tick/tap. I don't really think it's a timing issue but I've ruled out the most obvious possibilities so I'll try anything. I also have a new OP relief valve and spring as they have been mentioned. Again an unlikely culprit but the parts were cheap (under £10) so I'll fit them.
How much is the toyota sst tp?
 
The service tool is 09275-54011. The fulcrum is in the middle so the dial gauge readings are the same as if the spindle of the dial gauge is in the same axis as the plunger in the pump as in the other type of tool.

I made a tool to fit my pump and dial gauge but had to take the oil filter off. I did not have to loosen any pipes though for the fitting of the tool or turning the pump round as rotation of the pump was very slight indeed.

Assuming the pump was set correctly and has not been messed with it will probably be slightly retarded as the gears wear that way.
 
How much is the toyota sst tp?


Best price from Amayama is £68 + delivery + VAT + ID so getting on for £100 I would imagine although I haven't priced one up from a dealer over here.

Frank.
I removed the ACSD a while back due to it leaking fuel. I repaired it with new seals but decided to leave it off pending any cold start issues of which there appears to be non so I'm leaving if off. The actuating pin on the rear of the unit showed no signs of wear. I believe from various posts on here and info from other inet sources that the timing remains correct (for a hot engine) with the ACSD removed?
 
Yes if you take it off you can just do the timing as the timing pin you refer to is free and you don't have to put the plate in. In other words your pump is in the hot attitude even though it's cold when you do the timing. You could do the timing when the engine is hot but that won't make any difference.

With the factory setup you have to put the plate in to replicate a hot engine. Or you could get the engine up to temperature and then do the timing.........but QUICKLY as the engine temperature drops quickly activating the ACSD which starts to give you false readings. Also unpleasantly hot for the operator. lol.
 
I've never used one of those but have heard of them. I'don't know the relationship between the pulse on that timing device and the dial gauge reading on the other.
 
Any thoughts on the link?

If that works on the 80 pump it looks easier than fitting the dial gauge type tools. What you would need though is the timing (firing point) for No.1 injector. The only timing setting given in the FSM is the plunger stroke measured using the dial gauge tools, so, as Frank has pointed out, how would you translate that into a firing point for No.1 injector?.
 
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