That looks a bit crusty to me. I get between 11mpg in heavy city traffic and 15mpg on a run most of the time. Very occasionally I've seen better, as high as 19mpg, when forced to drive slowly but 14/15 is more realistic if you enjoy driving 
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Real world V8 running costs?
- Thread starter Imotepify
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So rusty in places it's more like a crust than steel. Especially the last picture. Looks like it's seen a lot of salt. Just my thoughts on seeing those pictures. I could be completely wrong.
Road salt, or if it's from anywhere near the coast then from the air all year round.
Imotepify
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Was on the IOW but not sure how long for, would you say it's still worth a look (3 hour drive each way) I know it's hard to say lol
Was hoping I could spend a few weeks underneath cleaning it up and treating so no further rust would occur.
The points that are normally bad or so I'm told on the body work look in good condition but I'm no expert.
That's why I value your opinions.
Thanks again for the advice, Karl.
Was hoping I could spend a few weeks underneath cleaning it up and treating so no further rust would occur.
The points that are normally bad or so I'm told on the body work look in good condition but I'm no expert.
That's why I value your opinions.
Thanks again for the advice, Karl.
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My interpretation of those pictures is that it was undersealed or similar and the rust we see in the pictures is just what's broken through. I suspect there will be a lot more rust visible to the naked eye albeit some is under paint. That's just a best guess though, based on pictures and experience, of one person, which could be completely wrong! Most rust can be treated / cut out and replaced. They're all old and most are a bit rusty by now so realistically you'll have to deal with some level of rust. You might still find it useful to view this one even if there's a good chance you'll walk away and maybe it's better than I think 
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As Jon says, you never know till you look at it yourself. I bought the first Colorado I viewed but had an accurate description from the seller, likewise the first 100 I viewed. In 97 when I bought my first Cruiser it was a six month exercise and 2000 miles of travels and bought the 30th I viewed ( and they were a current model then).Likewise the 120 was the 10th I viewed.
I've never bought one that needed welding at the time though, thats something to avoid if you can.
Just saying, patience is the key but like Jon said, they are all old.
I've never bought one that needed welding at the time though, thats something to avoid if you can.
Just saying, patience is the key but like Jon said, they are all old.
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seen a lot worse mine was crusty but when i felt iside chassis it was smooth ,but they are old i re waxoyl mine every year just for peace of mind
Those photos show some rust. Not TOO bad.
Does anyone else here think that looks like it’s been undersealed at some point?
The positive thing here is that the owner is happily sending you photos from underneath. Without trying to do him wrong, he could be missing something. It’s not rust free but it doesn’t look beyond Fettling. If the rust is on the surface it can be stopped with Krown but if it’s gone through the only option is to cut it out and either weld in new metal or fill with a grommet if it’s a tiny hole in a sill for example.
Your first pic shows a tiny hole near the sunroof drain pipe (angled), Pic 2 looks most awkward with some flaking which is what makes me think underseal but I’m by no means sure of this. If it has been then it could be hiding all sorts of rust issues. If not then what’s shown in those pics doesn’t look ‘walk away’ terrible.
Does anyone else here think that looks like it’s been undersealed at some point?
The positive thing here is that the owner is happily sending you photos from underneath. Without trying to do him wrong, he could be missing something. It’s not rust free but it doesn’t look beyond Fettling. If the rust is on the surface it can be stopped with Krown but if it’s gone through the only option is to cut it out and either weld in new metal or fill with a grommet if it’s a tiny hole in a sill for example.
Your first pic shows a tiny hole near the sunroof drain pipe (angled), Pic 2 looks most awkward with some flaking which is what makes me think underseal but I’m by no means sure of this. If it has been then it could be hiding all sorts of rust issues. If not then what’s shown in those pics doesn’t look ‘walk away’ terrible.
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TOTALLY AGREE
Higgy
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Best thing to do Karl is bite the bullet and go and have a look (sorry i keep forgetting about the lock down) But you know what i mean, Its a 1998 truck..There will be rust and probably Lots of it... Weather that be surface rust, Which is normal, Or rotten as a pear, No one will know till 'ya' get underneath.. Depending on how much you have to spend you could wait until a better one or nearer one comes up...I found a rust hole in my sill the other day the size of my little finger, By the time id done i had cut out and welded in a plate about 8" in length.... Its what your up against with the rust worm......
J
jibberjabber
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I have a 100 2004 with only 89,000 miles, I agree 92,000 is hardly 'Run in' for the mechanical side of things just as long as the mech items have had the oils, greases and fluids changed as per spec, The rust side is a different matter, all the visible parts of the car, outside, inside and underside, usually speak for them selves, with regard to rust, most of the usual 'rust traps' on the 100 can be accessed fairly easily, I.E inner rear wings/wheel arches, you can see a good amount by just removing the rear lights then a look see with a good torch, if there is just a build up of mud for instance, it can be washed out with a hose pipe,
As can most of the other mud/rust traps, like inside the lower rear front wings, you can shine a torch in the lower gap between the 'A' pillar and the wing, other more obvious plases for mud traps are the wing arch edges, especally the front as they have plastic wheel arch liners that trap mud, another favorite place is the back end, upper and lower tailgate edges, although the bumpers are plastic (inside the front is not usually a problem) the rear bumper has a few metal reinforcing parts for the part you use as a step to reach into the rear cargo area, and said metal parts do suffer from rust, all this can easily be seen from undernrath the rear looking backwards, again with a torch, also while under the back end, ask the owner to remove the spare wheel, as most UK spec 100's had the spare under the rear, this will serve three purposes, 1) it will prove the all the parts for removing the wheel are there, inc the 'security key', 2) you will see that the lower and raise mech works, 3) you can have a very good gander with the torch at all of the under rear end area, most surface rust underneath is not a problem, also if you see the shrouds on what you think are the rear shocks (presuming it is a AHC LC) have quite a bit of rust or even rot on them don't worry, it is very common in our sort of climate, and does not affect anything.
The above sounds like a bit of a horror story when I read it back, but as with all the Land Cruisers, Toyota have not built a reputation on using shoddy parts and workmanship, so it all boils down to the previous owners and uses, Land Cruisers are a victim of their own ruggedness, even the luxury series 80, 100 and 200's, are very much more than 'capable' so, they have all, well mostly all, been abused in one way or another, remember the 'heavy weights' can tow 3.5 tonnes all day and every day without as much as a groan, but even this will eventually take it toll.
Good Luck
P.S, There is a thread on here someware, I think it's entitled "all the usual rust traps on a 100' but don't quote me.
Edit. P.S.S, mine had mud (no rust) in all the places aforementiond, but the one and only previous owner had the forsight to treat my 100 from new back in 2004, so the mud and grime had not affected the metal, apart from the metal parts I mentioned inside the rear bumper.
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J
jibberjabber
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You aint gona get any 80 or 100 for much less than £5000, even that 1999 at £7,500 is a good price presuming everything checks out.
J
jibberjabber
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Also, I forgot to say, as with any car, with regard to mud/rust traps, it's a case of 'out of sight out of mind' and lack of general maintenance or intrest.
Good Luck with your hunt.
Good Luck with your hunt.
J
jibberjabber
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Most of that is scaremongering just to drum up business for the garage, I take mine to the local council MOT testing station, they don't do repairs for the public so are not intrested in silly advisories, just honest advice. FYI, you can find you local council MOT testing station on Google.
The front and rear 'anti-roll bar' drop links are a common wear item and very, very easy to fix, I had that 'coil springs corroded' on and mot advisori a few MOT's back when I used to take it to a Toyota Dealer' some of the crap they used to come out with was so unbelievabe, they shut up when they relise you know what your talking about.
Anything under the car is going to have some rust on it, the spring are a common scare tactic, they will ware out before they break.
So I think most of that if not all of it is just Bull Shit.
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