Rear Caliper Recon

[IRLGW]

I was changing the rear pads on My 93 Truck and noticed that when I pushed the nearside caliper back that brake fluid was leaking out from around the piston. One the other side the piston was pretty stiff (although appears to be working) and took a lot of force to send it back. Me thinks its time to do a service on the calipers and was looking at this kit on ebay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-La...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f3f245570

I thought I would put it out there to see if anyone had used these or had priced a genuine kit recently? Also without having looked at the FSM I presume this is a 'pop out-pop in' job..

Any advice appreciated

 

[Chris]

Odd that you should ask but I rebuilt a whole front calliper this afternoon using their part. Used quite a few in the past never had a problem at all. My back ones seemed ok but the LSV has packed up I think and now the brake pipes are twisting as I try to undo them, so I am well and truly stuffed. One of the front piston was utterly stuck. I mean like no chance. So I welded a bar across it and used to 16mm bolts to jack it out. Had new pistons in stock.

Not hard on the rears. What you don't get in the kit though is the copper washers that go on the connection. You don't always need new ones but it's not until you get it apart that you know. Compressed air and brake cleaner plus some red rubber grease and you'll be good to go.

 

[Towpack]

The killer to any calliper refurb will be the condition of the calliper bodies. If they're badly corroded with scored or pitted bores and/or the dust seal groove has crumbled away then don't waste money on a refurb kit. If the bodies are OK then you're good to go. I'm lining up a fluid change shortly so I intend to fit some new SS nipples in the process as the existing ones don't look too good. Just hope they come out easily.

 

[Chris]

TP, you got a link to those? Mine are all sizes from 9 to 11 mm and all pretty shocking. I did buy some once but they weren't even close to fitting.

The Sealey vacuum bleeder seemed to work. Bit of a trick to it, but it certainly pulls fluid through.

 

[Towpack]

A quick look and I'm thinking they're M10 so I had these in mind.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-Stainl...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c40efb6a9
Other sizes are available but 9 and 11mm seem odd sizes? Milners list just one size (short) but they don't say what thread. I now have an adaptor for the Gunson Eezibleed which works well and holds pressure on the reservoir so I'll go with that.

 

[IRLGW]

Thanks lads,

Im fairly optimistic that the caliper bodies are ok but now know to check the walls before putting the seals in. I didnt notice any oil drips so the seal may just have failed as the piston wash pushed back. What is it about the recent weather and brakes- In a six week period I have had to free a siezed rear caliper on my mums megane and then a few weeks later replace a rear caliper on my accord and now the LC!

In terms of bleeding, when I replaced the caliper on my accord I just duct taped a handwash bottle to the window and then forced a clear 3mm tube on to the bleed nipple. I then just pumped through the fluid (with the brake pedal) until it ran clean and without bubbles worked a treat. Having seen the colour of what came out I will now be flushing brake fluid anytime I change the pads!

 

[Dave]

Don't forget that you shouldn't mix different materials. ie. regular steel and stainless steel. It depends on the ratio of each, but you'll probably get no benefit from stainless nipples.

 

[Chris]

Sorry I meant 9, 10 and 11mm spanners not threads
I bought the Milner ones as I said and they were just plain wrong but can't recall why
I'm in Toyota tomorrow so will order some new ones

 

[IRLGW]

Just to update these refurb kits are a piece of cake to fit. Did mine in the dark with a headtorch so I could get out in the snow! Everything inside looked good as well. old pots were in good condition except for the exposed sections. Have a sticky pot on the front so will get ordered for those as well. I think once the brake jams or catches and heats up, the inner seal is toast and thus it will definitely need replacing (on any type of car) so worth having some in the toolkit...

 

[Chris]

Result. Yes, the fluid that came out of mine at the weekend was horrendous. And from the clutch too.

 

[AndyCook]

I have a vacuum bleeder for doing the brakes too, but find often it sucks air in via the bleed nipple threads, I put grease on them which can help. Any other tips?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Chris]

Mine is the Sealey one and it fits pretty tight, but it does pull in air too whoch makes it hard to read. But it's pulling fluid out of the system as well and that seems to count. I do push the cap on with my finger. I might try greasing the new nipples on the thread too when I put those in just in case it's pulling in air around the threads too.

 

[IRLGW]

Force a clear rubber tube over the bleed nipple and secure with a small tie clip if required. Open it only enough to let fluid out under pressure. Lead the tube up high and into a clear container ( I taped an empty handwash bottle to the window). Loop the tube just slightly higher than the brake fluid reservoir. Pump the pedal until the fluid reaches the container. Pump plenty through to make sure all air is expelled ( remember to keep the res topped up but it would take a lot to empty it). When you lift off the pedal any recoil will only draw back fluid from the tube and then just nip up the nipple.

Chris did you notice any improvement in braking performance having flushed the system?

 

[Chris]

I'm not there yet mate. Still waiting for new nipples and a couple of other pipes. So I am not fully bled yet. Drivable but not up to spec just yet.