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Rear diff actuator

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I knew it was a mistake to do this!
The topmost of the three bolts that hold the cover with the indicator switch
to the diff housing has sheared. I can't get the remaining stud to shift and
there's not enough room to get by drill square onto it to drill it out.
I can't get the top two bolts that hold the actuator to undo.
I took the round front cover of the actuator itself to have a look and of
course all the bits fell apart before I could see how they actually went
together so now I have a random pile of springs and gear wheels!
OK, maybe I can do without actually getting the actuator properly back
together but I *do* need to get the sheared bolt out otherwise I won't have
an oiltight seal.
I'm off back out to have another go with the mole grips.
Pete
 
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Peter.
Have you tried drilling out the bolt using a 90 deg. drill attachment?
If part of the broken bolt sticks out of the hole, perhaps it can be
arc welded to a piece of metal, then undone using mole grips?
IMHO, the worst thing that may happen is a broken tap in a blind hole,
so be careful if you need to rethread the diff after the extraction.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80 (auto)
On Fri, Apr 18, 2008 at 10:16 AM, Peter Browning
<[Email address removed]> wrote:
 
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Thanks Roman, there is a bit of bolt sticking out but I have no welder,
can't weld anyway.
Drilling is a no-no I think exactly because of the risk of thread damage.
Pete
 
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Pete,
Don't worry about damaging the thread. If that happens you can always
use a helicoil. It's useful in more than one way. Check this:
http://www.tool-up.co.uk/exec/toolup/RCL35060.html
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80 (auto)
On Fri, Apr 18, 2008 at 10:41 AM, Peter Browning
<[Email address removed]> wrote:
 
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Have you seen me with tools?! :)
How do these work then? Is it a bit like a rawlplug? so you tap the hole
oversize and screw in the insert which has a smaller thread internally?
Doesn't help me at the moment though, I need to get the truck operational by
7 a.m. tomorrow to join up with the ELCO weekenders! I have no suitable
drill, no helicoil kit and no welder. :-(
Pete
 
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Pete,
Exactly.
Ehm... next question, please :)
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80 (auto)
 
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1/4 inch
Maybe
No - exposed oil, electrical stuff in close vicinity, etc
I'm spraying WD40 every few minutes
These have always simply broken when I've used them
 
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Pete,
Your first friend is heat, if you heat the stud and let it cool
it may well come out. This happens as the expansion crushes any rust
or gunk causing the stud to stick, then contraction leaves a gap.
Regards,
Clive Marks
Home: +44 1293 514600
Mobile: +44 7821 491897
Crawley, West Sussex, UK.
 
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Thanks Clive
Trouble is there's exposed diff oil and various electrical connectors and
cable in the near vicinity so my blowtorch is no use.
Maybe a mini-blowtorch will do the trick.
Pete
 
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Pete,
I use a mini blow torch. I have a Proxxon one from Austria and
another small one of forgotten make, they are really useful for a
small amount of local heat.
Regards,
Clive Marks
Home: +44 1293 514600
Mobile: +44 7821 491897
Crawley, West Sussex, UK.
 
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Pete,
Patience is your friend if you want to use a pencil blow torch, but at
least there will be no more damage from the heat. Perhaps using a
shield with a hole for the heated area would work faster.
There's also a stud extractor that works well if you can get purchase
on the round bit of the broken bolt:
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_detail.asp?productID=9285
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80 (auto)
On Fri, Apr 18, 2008 at 12:07 PM, Clive Marks <[Email address removed]> wrote:
 
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Well, I give up!
I got a small power drill and managed to drill straight and true right down
the middle of the snapped bolt with a bit that's only slightly smaller than
the bolt diameter. The remains of the bolt are a paper thin shell,
effectively just the threads, but the bugger still will not shift. It's as
though it's physically bonded to the housing.
There's too much metal left though to get a tap in.
So I'm out of ideas now. It looks like I'll not be at the meet after all.
Why did I attempt this today? That's what I get for being cocky I suppose.
Pete
 
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Pete,
Can you (carefully) rethread the hole using tap No 1?
If not, can you use a next size tap and a bigger bolt?
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80 (auto)
On Fri, Apr 18, 2008 at 1:52 PM, Peter Browning
<[Email address removed]> wrote:
 
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Everything is against me.
Not enough room to swing the tap handle, I can get 1/4 turn at most.
I was trying to get a smaller tap in and then gradually work up the tap
sizes. I don't have a small enough socket to fit the tap either, not that
using a wrench on a tap is a good idea anyway I suppose.
I've thawed out again now, I'm off back out now to see if there's anything I
can do.
Pete
 
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Pete,
Metric sockets usually don't fit anyway. You can use a correct size
open ended spanner but be very careful - if the tap brakes, you will
have an even bigger headache. Use oil to lubricate the tap, turn it
1/4 clockwise max then back out and turn right again. Do not be
tempted to use mole grips on the cutting section of the tap near the
hole.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80 (auto)
On Fri, Apr 18, 2008 at 2:06 PM, Peter Browning
<[Email address removed]> wrote:
 
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Pete,
Be careful trying to tap it, you don't want to cut a new thread
along with the old one, you have to pick up what is there. Also watch
for the tap picking up what is left of the stud and running it into
the hole.
Regards,
Clive Marks
Home: +44 1293 514600
Mobile: +44 7821 491897
Crawley, West Sussex, UK.
 
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Whe don't he just take that axle out so you have more room? 2 shocks
absorbers bolts, 1 break tube bolt, 2 trail arm bolts! Than you have
all the room of a king to work on the probleme!
2008/4/18, Clive Marks <[Email address removed]>:
 
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Hi Benoit
Mainly because I wanted it back together this evening and I do not have the
facilities here to remove axles.
Cheers
Pete
 
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Not that simple, brake lines both mechanical and hydraulic, plus the
axle breathers etc.
Regards,
Clive Marks
Home: +44 1293 514600
Mobile: +44 7821 491897
Crawley, West Sussex, UK.
 
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