Rear diff lock 80 series 4.2td 1996

[Garrry]

hi all right I have just bought it and the rear diff lock doesn't want to work are there relays and where might they be located I have had it on the ramp and played about I have put power to the motor and it did spin it is very corroded so I reckon it is going to need a new actuator but would like to test the relays first to see what is happening many thanks for any info provided and sorry if it's a repeated post

 

[karl webster]

There's a relay in the ns footwell. It's the 4wd control relay.

 

[Richard Turner]

Does the centre diff lock light come on? Do the red diff lock ligit's flash red? Do the front and rear ones make any noise if you have it in low range with the ignition on?

They are like a motor that winds up a spring, that then pushes a pin into the diff when the holes are lined up. If you have no noise from the motors though they will more than likely need replacing I think.

I don't have the manual for the diesel - this is from the petrol, but hopefully some help.

 

[Richard Turner]

On my rear diff lock the housing was so corroded that it jammed the pin. There is an inspection cover with a sensor in it that you can take off and use a lever bar to slide the pin in and out of the diff. I took the actuator off, broke away the corrosion and refitted it, it is still working at the moment. But I could hear the motor working on mine.

 

[Garrry]

Was in low and diff lock light flashes front is working fine and centre just rear not working cannot hear the motors running hence wanting to check the relays have had a look in the back it is pretty corroded so think I am going to end up buying a new one just wanted to rule out the relay

 

[Garrry]

So is it best to do it with the wheels moving or can it be done with just the ignition on and in low box?

 

[Richard Turner]

I did it with the back axle jacked up and just turning the wheels by hand. Sometimes it takes ages for it to engage by driving around. Unless you have one wheel slipping and one with grip. It has to line up in the diff.

 

[Garrry]

Will try tomorrow as it's still on the ramp

 

[Firewout]

when I bought mine, the actuator was jammed, cable loom partially melted and a relay int the cpu was burnt. New actuator. torn apart the cable loom on the rear axle, repaired it and put it back together. replaced the relay in the cpu. it's a commonly available relay, so only a bit of soldering and ready. new actuator is expensive !

 

[Garrry]

when I bought mine, the actuator was jammed, cable loom partially melted and a relay int the cpu was burnt. New actuator. torn apart the cable loom on the rear axle, repaired it and put it back together. replaced the relay in the cpu. it's a commonly available relay, so only a bit of soldering and ready. new actuator is expensive !

Where can I buy the relays if needed? Thanks

 

[Gav missin]

Where can I buy the relays if needed? Thanks

You have Karl on here or Garry 80 breakers at wisbech for parts. Chapel gate has new lockers for sale on here also.

Where can I buy the relays if needed? Thanks

 

[Firewout]

they are omron relays. I googled the code that was printed on them and easily found a replacement in my local electronic shop. I don't have the full size photo anymore.

 

[Lexie]

Maybe am stateing the obvious here but if the motor dont make a sound are they easy fixed or replaced

 

[nielsc]

You can open them up and clean them. On mine the magnets from the electric motor came loose, very common to happen with them.
I just glued them back in the motor cap.

 

[Garrry]

I put power to the motor and it did spin up so reckon the problem is somewhere else

 

[nielsc]

I put power to the motor and it did spin up so reckon the problem is somewhere else

Then I would check the wiring and the position switch as in the manual above.

 

[Garrry]

Position switch was working ok took it out and checked that so was going to check relays

 

[IRLGW]

I thought the front didn't engage unless the rear and centre were engaged first so it would appear you have a very special truck..

p.s you might be safer driving it in reverse with that configuration

 

[Chris]

Pretty sure the front will lock without the back one going in. We had a truck in the air the other week with no life in the rear lock, but the new front motor whizzed up just fine. Obviously the centre has to be engaged first.

 

[clivehorridge]

Pretty sure the front will lock without the back one going in. We had a truck in the air the other week with no life in the rear lock, but the new front motor whizzed up just fine. Obviously the centre has to be engaged first.

With you on that Chris.

My rear locker has always worked but the connectors on the wire from the indent switch to the panel (to confirm it’s locked) rotted away years ago, and the front has always worked.

A few weeks ago, the rear locker stopped working due to corrosion inside the main feed connector block at the locker, but the front continued to work.

A quick clean-up of the connector block got the rear going again, all fine now ... still no lock-out lights on the dash though... but who cares?

They’re engaged when switched on and not when not. I can’t ask for much more than that.