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Rear Door issue - Need Advice

jdemers90

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united_states
Hi folks,
I just introduced myself to the forum over on the introductions thread.http://landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/56801-Hi-folks-I-m-Justin

My land cruisers is having some rear door trouble, specifically the hinge that limits the distance that the door may open has ripped out of the door itself on the driver's side. I see fatigue cracks forming on the passenger side rear door as well. This is a 2000, so 15 years of kids throwing doors open with wild abandon have taken their toll I suppose. I'm not 100% sure what I want to do about this. I've got a $700 quote from a body shop that will take doors off, sand and trim bad metal, weld in reinforcing bar onto door itself and then replace and reattach the door range limiter (not sure the precise term for this piece - if anyone can define, I'll start using the right term). Then, they will tac-weld the fatigue lines in the passenger door frame, and then repaint.

It sounds like the best option short of replacing the doors, which is what another body shop said was necessary for the $2k US.

Here's where you all come in, which path would you take on a truck with 210k miles on it? Any opinion is welcomed.First Photo is of the driver side rear door that has already pulled out - quite a bit worse now after not dealing with it for months. the second photo is of the passenger side rear door where there is fatigue cracking and will be easier to deal with.

thanks!

p.s. is it forum etiquette to post pictures this way or as attachments?
IMG_1353 (1).jpgIMG_1357.jpg
 

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For that sort of money could you get one from a breaker's yard? Just need to spray it. I've never seen cracks like that....makes you wonder how that has come about.
 
Welcome Justin.

Can't see the first picture.

With regard to the second picture I would suggest to make plates up to overlap the fatigue cracks top and bottom. One on inside and one on outside. If made from stainless steel they will not even need painting. Longer studs will probably be required. There is probably a shock absorber rubber which goes on the limit bar which may not be doing it's job. This helps the door from receiving a mechanical shock every time the limit of opening is reached.

If there is a relatively small hole in the other door a similar approach could be adopted. So cheap it could well be worth trying. You must have a shop near you doing up classic cars. They could easily make reinforcement plates for you.
 
Thanks SteveS. I bought it with 160k miles on it, so I'm not sure what other factors could have contributed to thrashing the door hinges so much. It's happening on both, which suggests to me that there was either (or both) a consistent pattern of wear by over enthusiastic kids coming and going with reckless abandon or some sort of production defect. My money's (literally) on the kids.
 
First picture now visible. A cheap repair as I suggested.

If you want it back to original specification and looks it's going to cost a lot. 2nd hand doors may be just about to crack?

If that door flies open in the wind it could well do body damage.
 
Thanks Frank, I reloaded the first image. I appreciate the advice.
 
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I can't imagine that being a common problem , maybe the previous owner was involved in something that had him driving about with the doors open ? . I would search the web for mention of similar faults and if i got few results i would replace with used doors .
 
Or was kept where it's very windy and they just let the doors fly open :think: you could phone a couple of breakers and maybe get them in the same colour and get a price and if too expensive go with the extra plates as your not going to see them when doors are shut.
 
I'd have some THICK plates made up and welded in place, they don't have to be anything special just drilled to match the mounting and main access holes for the door restraint.

A local workshop would do that for you for 1/4 that price I'd imagine, then simply prime, mask and rattle-can some color on.

It's not a visible panel (unless you do drive around with the doors open all the time Justin :lol:) so who cares if it looks a bit on the rough side. You never know, with care it could turn out quite a nice looking job.

I tore the end off my drivers door restraint and had to replace the whole restraint as a unit. Not much to it, but Mr T took about £60 equivalent off me for it IIRC :icon-rolleyes: I also had to pay to have the door straightened, it folded back against the wing and made a very impressive vertical "V" groove all the way up the door. Pesky trees, they just appear from nowhere, especially when reversing :whistle:

When doors open further than the restraint, it can do a load of damage to the door. Get them fixed and post some pics and we'll all be impressed with the outcome.

Your restraints look OK, so it's just a matter of welding a plate over IMO.

Good luck Justin.
 
I guess its the rear passenger doors (i can't see the last pic) i was thinking tailgate bouncing while ferrying equipment across the beach or something .
 
I guess its the rear passenger doors (i can't see the last pic) i was thinking tailgate bouncing while ferrying equipment across the beach or something .

Nah Shayne, it's the rear side doors.

Some trucks are civilized, they have 4 doors you know, so that you can sit in the back... They have seats and everything :whistle:
 
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Yes people carriers i call them perfect for the school run :icon-wink:
 
With welding there's a risk of burning the paint on the outside panel/ any rust proofing to the inner surface will be destroyed locally. I think those doors have a seam seal between the frame and skin which will defo be damaged.
 
With welding there's a risk of burning the paint on the outside panel/ any rust proofing to the inner surface will be destroyed locally. I think those doors have a seam seal between the frame and skin which will defo be damaged.

Certainly worth considering Frank. Good point. I don't know the 100 door configuration.

However, most welders these days should be able to limit the heat dissipation to some extent with care. It's the fabricator that should decide the most appropriate repar, really, after studying the engineering necessary in the circumstances.

My thoughts were limited, just to the approach really.
 
Probably worth making up a plate to go inside larger than the area and bolting it in place securely. No real need to weld it. Perhaps an inner and an outer, coat them well, even have them plated, then fit with a good sandwich of body panel mastic to keep any moisture out. Then refit the stay.

At least 4mm inside and 2mm outside should probably do the trick. Then thread the internal peace or better still use nutserts or weld nuts on the rear and countersink screws in the outer part. Radius any cut outs to avoid cracks starting.
 
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Hi Folks, Just wanted to close the loop on this thread. First, I appreciate all the feedback and advice. Second, for those of you who are happily married or otherwise committed, you'll understand that the 'strong' encouragement I received from my wife to get someone to fix this that knew what they were doing tipped the scales in favor having a shop weld up a plate inside the door frame and refinishing just like new...It cost me way more than I wanted to pay but it will pay dividends down the road in terms of delaying her demand to get a new car. $700 for the fix is well offset by a couple of months of not having a payment on a new car loan...

Thanks again for the advice.

P.s. I'll be spending a couple months in Europe this summer with my family (likely London, S. Sweden, Prague, Chamonix and Spain) if anyone has off the beaten track must-see recommendations, I'm all ears, and will post pictures if you'd be interested.
 
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