Shock absorber- stopping the rotation when changing?

[Trevor]

I'm in the middle of changing the rear shocks and springs on the 100, as it has AHC there is only just enough room to get a spanner onto the top nut.

Sustained turning force is needed to shift it but the top section of the shock turns with it so no undo possible at the minute.

I've exposed the rod and welded some runs to allow mole grips to grip but still the shock rotates a little thwarting the efforts to undo the top nut.

So how do other people manage to grip the shock to stop it turning?

Any techniques that have worked please post up, getting rather frustrated after today.

 

[Mblinko]

Often you can't Stop the rotation unless you have giant water pump type grips or similar. Even so, mine still turned and I had to grind and split them to get the nuts off.

 

[Shayne]

I would tie a rope to the tow bar wrap it 4 times around the shock and have someone keep weight on it . Like using a drum end winch .

 

[Trevor]

We tried similar with a ratchet strap but there is still just enough movement to bugger the job up. I've thought about grinding a couple of flats into the rod but not convinced it'll do the job, we'll find a way I'm sure but hoping an solution might pop here.

 

[Tommy345]

Stilsons

 

[Chris]

Small grinder, thin disc Trevor. Go in where the rubbers are and just cut straight through it all. I have long since stopped trying to get dampers off any other way. Or one of those power hacksaws.

Brrrrsssszzzzt. Done in 10 seconds.

 

[Julian T]

I bought one of these, much easier to remove stubborn bolts or nuts.
Mere moments in most cases and its undone.
And yes my shocks fought with me when I used sockets or spanners but with that I replaced 4 shock absorber's in about 30 minutes.

 

[Trevor]

I've not got the space to get one of those in from above, would have been off easy peasy with that. Chris, cracking idea as I have both, I'll see if I can squeeze either in tomorrow.

The cut has to be as close to the underside of the top bracket as there is minimal space to pull the reminder of the shock upward and clear the underbody.

Cutting above the top bracket is nigh on impossible plus the AHC pipe is too close for comfort. I'll smile again once it's all done.

 

[Julian T]

I assume the top of the shock with no space is the rear one, on the 80 it is held with a bracket you unbolt from below, the front shock absorbers have plenty of room.

 

[Trevor]

The rear on the 100 doesn't have the removable bracket, the space available is very tight indeed. Not the best thought out plan by the designers for doing maintenance and it was 28 degrees in the workshop today which really didn't help my mood

 

[Julian T]

it was 28 degrees in the workshop today which really didn't help my mood

That I can believe, I was finishing off a garden fence today.
I started hydrating before I even started work lol.

Sometimes you just wonder what the designer was thinking when he designed the equipment you are trying to maintain.

 

[Beau]

I know on some shocks, there's a allen key slot on the top, to stop the actual shock spinning when trying to undo the bolt. I imagine this isn't the case with the 100 series shocks...

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

Cut a hole above it in the floor to access it from above is the only successful way anyone I've ever known do it. Stick a plate back on with Tiger Seal.

 

[StarCruiser]

Is it not possible to wedge the spanner against something while on the nut and use grips or a strap wrench to turn the shock? Not something I've had to do as mines an 80 with the removable plate so don't know much about this one.

 

[StarCruiser]

Cut a hole above it in the floor to access it from above is the only successful way anyone I've ever known do it. Stick a plate back on with Tiger Seal.

If you drill the hole with a 25mm hole saw, an electrical blind grommet would bung the hole back up again easily. That's if a 25 mm hole could be drilled accurately enough and be big enough for the socket. Just a thought.

 

[silvercruiser]

Its the same on the colorado. i tried undoing etc. but the only way i got in was with the air hacksaw.

this is what i used
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cat118-sabre-saw

only because i had it from a previous job but it did work well.

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

Three times I have been asked by local garages on this subject and the ' hole from above ' is the only way. If anyone knows better I would like to be enlightened.

 

[Chris]

I'd still cut them off. Even if I had to chop bits of the damper shroud off, I'd just cut through the stem every time. Even if you only nick it, you can bend back and forth til it snaps. For me, and I have seen it done, cutting the floor would be the absolute last resort.

 

[Tommy345]

Normally we end up cutting them off, even cutting them off is a nasty job on the 100, I carn't remember how many I have changed suspension on, not once have I ever had to cut a hole in the floor, it's not a last resort it's not even an option in my eyes

 

[frank rabbets]

I used a large pair of water pump pliers on the ram bodies and forced their handles together with a pair of mole grips. Managed to get both sides off without any damage. The nuts are accessible from the wheel arch where there is gap between the body and chassis. Did the 80 the same way apart from not needing to access from the wheel arch. Once the nuts were loose it was not too bad just time consuming.