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Slow Windows (voltage drop)

warrenpfo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2010
Messages
2,895
Hi all i have new window rubbers and have removed the window mechanism over the weekend to make sure it was operating as it should but the window motor really does strain to push the window up. The drivers door cluster has been checked and cleaned so not sure where to go to next.

Could it be poor wiring and just not enough current getting to the motor? I was wondering if anyone has rewired the window motors and experienced improved window motor speed.
 
I have not done any replacement parts on the 80 and some days the Windows hardly work with a little help

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I have supplemented the wires to the switch cluster with 2.5mm panel wire in addition to the original loom. TBH, there was very little improvement. Mine have the new rubbers and even with them, they are slow, especially with lower temperatures. It really is a case that the motors are not man enough I believe.

I think some have had better results by servicing the mechanism but I don't thinking was anything striking.

I am looking at the possibility of rewinding these to give a little more power. It won't be a lot more, perhaps in the region of 10% or so.

Anyone interested?
 
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Warren, slow windows can be a combo of issues. Rubbers, switches, connections etc. But I have found a major issue is wear in the drive pinion. There is a small cog that engages with the quadrant on the regulator. This, instead of spinning perfectly in its axis, it weathervanes around all wobbly like and it effectively jams itself causing massive drag. I've had several in bits trying to work out if I could make repair kits and the truth is, no. The components are not really replaceable. I have made half decent ones up from busted one and seen an improvement but that's about all. Milner now sell motors at better than dealer price.
 
Are the Milner motors any better at the job?
 
Are Milner motors better than a broken OEM motor? I'd hope they would be Rich. For at least a week.
 
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Yes, but are they any better than a mechanically good OEM motor that's still on a go slow?
 
I don't know how you expect me to answer that really. It's just that I haven't come across a poor performing one that wasn't down to wear in the pinion.

Incidentally, if you took a worn pinion motor and ramped up it's torque, I'd think you'd most likely incur quite a bit of damage. I'm sure you wouldn't do that on a warn motor of course. Now if you can do a gear rebuild on motors, I'm sure you'd have a queue. I think you could, but it's a volume thing. They're dead easy to take to bits and drop new bits in, if you have new bits. The motors are really strong.
 
Just from a quick glance point of view. When my windows do the 'slow thing' (which ONLY happens in the winter cold), I have tried closing ALL the passenger door windows from the drivers switch panel, and then from the individual doors. Each and every one went up faster, not much but perhaps 50% faster? And no I am not going to get out a stopwatch but they are quicker. The cold weather speed is the window rubbers but the reduction in speed from the drivers door, is a direct result of voltage drop and nothing else. If you can replicate this and the windows work well when they are warm (park in warm garage overnight to test), then perhaps new switch gear, cables etc.

regards

Dave
 
Warren, another point of resistance is the nylon roller in the bottom channel, it seizes up so will not just roll along the channel which also fills with water & in winter can freeze, i drilled a couple of holes in mine to let water drain then a good dollop of grease in there & free off the wheel, made a huge difference to mine.
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Can't believe it's a wiring cable size issue as they must've been OK when new. If you have a substantial voltage drop at the motor under load it's almost certainly a dodgy connector, including the switch itself IMO. The contacts in the DD switch seem to erode and burn readily causing HR. As you'll have noticed, the contacts for the driver's window are a more substantial, spring contact affair but still succumb to spark erosion. I experimented with a zener diode wired in to quench the spark which worked for a while but it soon burned out. Maybe a different value/rating would work? New rubbers certainly improved mine, cold or hot. They are noticeably slower though when operated with the intake air heater still connected immediately after a cold start which definitely is due to voltage drop.
 
Mine seem to be bad first thing and in cold weather or until she has been running half hour or so

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Rain is the thing that slows mine down. Hot or cold they operate at a slow but tolerable speed, but in the wet, winter or summer, they grind almost to a halt at best, and stop 1/2 way at worst.

They're still the old 21 yr old rubbers, mind.
 
I changed my 21yr old rubbers for new and it didn't make a fantastic difference, I used some lubricant stuff called Bisidol (or something like that) which did make quite an improvement.
 
You have mentioned this product before quite some time ago Chas and i would like to try it but have never found it , well apart from bisodol indigestion tablets :|

All my searches suggest silicone spray is what should be used on window rubber so might the stuff you used just be glorified wd40 ?
 
I've noticed on my 90 that if winding up 2 or more windows together, it slows them all down... but individually it's faster. The difference in speed is marginal but enough to notice. Would this be a case of voltage drop?
 
I definitely have a voltage drop problem with my windows that I haven't put the effort in to trace down yet. Well it's more a voltage drop problem full stop. I have new window rubbers and one new (non oem) regulator and motor. Still slow.

Next on the list is to clean up the earth from the batteries.
 
I used Wickes Silicon Lubricant

David replaced the rubbers, were fine until cold winter mornings slowed them down a bit, they're still a bit slow in the cold but now it doesn't sound like the motor is labouring.
 
You have mentioned this product before quite some time ago Chas and i would like to try it but have never found it , well apart from bisodol indigestion tablets :|

All my searches suggest silicone spray is what should be used on window rubber so might the stuff you used just be glorified wd40 ?

Actually I got the name wrong :oops:, it's Ballistol, here's a small can http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ballistol...775292?hash=item4d3fcb61fc:g:QrkAAOSwKtVWx4oC
or a larger one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ballistol...270812?hash=item1c5e6cc49c:g:qrMAAOSwSdZWc7NG
 
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