Smokin Clutch or something else????

[Rob Johnson]

Hi folks,

I was doing a bit of laning at the weekend in my 95 and was sat in some deep ruts which were becoming deeper and the terrain becoming steeper so I decided I needed to be out of them. I switched from 'High' to 'High Locked' and tried to climb out of the side but this wasn't working so like a bit of an EEEJUT I had to gun it a bit. I thought the wheels were spinning but then was shocked when smoke (and stench) started pouring from under the body. I switched the engine off, had a little reassess of the situation and then drove out properly with no problems.

I can only assume by the smell and smoke that the clutch was slipping and it has had a little judder on pull away for a while, the bite of the clutch seems to have got a bit lower (but that could be just in my head) and I have tried some big hill starts on road with no problems at all.

Before I order a clutch, have any of you folk got any thoughts?

Cheers Rob

:character-beavisbutthead:

 

[BobMurphy]

It certainly sounds like an overheated clutch - that "burning ferodo" smell is unmistakable

Last winter, in deep snow, I had to pull a large van out of the car park at the back of my Father-in-Law's flat so that we could get an Ambulance in to attend to him. I ended-up with my new clutch smoking and stinking. It now shudders when it gets hot and I need to find time to replace it again.

Its not a job I'm looking forward to, but I suppose it gets easier with practice .

Will you be fixing it yourself ??

Bob.

 

[Rob Johnson]

To be honest I like to do smaller jobs myself, but when it comes to stuff I class as 'big' jobs, I tend to be a 'payer' rather than a 'doer'

Is it a difficult one?

Milners list a clutch kit for £154, is that all I need or is there anything else? Are uprated clutches available?

 

[Crispin]

I've made the tyres smoke a lot, very different smell to clutch though. Could it have been one of the tyres now that it was locked and forced to spin?

Sent from TapaTalk

 

[Chris]

The clutch swap is not technically complex, but it is hugely heavy and not a quick job. My neighbour had there's done on their D4D Colorado only last week. Including the plate that got it done for less than £400 at a local garage. The plate was from Milner made by Exedy. Having done one myslef, on my own, it is NOT something I'd do again. With a lift or pit and transmission jacks - sure I would but otherwise, I'd be raiding the piggy bank thank you very much. Have you done a stall test? In gear, foot hard on brake clutch up, see if it slips or stalls.

It's also a lot easier if you have done a body lift so that you can get to the bell housing bolts.

Chris

 

[Rob Johnson]

I think it sounds like a job for somebody else!

I haven't tried testing the clutch with the footbrake, I will give it a go tonight.

I did try steep hill starts on road inc. rolling backwards and pulling away in first w/out using brakes and all seemed fine. I also tried holding on handbrake and pulling away and the power easily broke past my (recently serviced but still dire) handbrake.

Perhaps I have shortened the clutches life but still got enough left to use. I may be being overcautious but I just don't want to be stuck somewhere in the middle of nowhere with no drive!

 

[sae70]

...........I was doing a bit of laning at the weekend in my 95 and was sat in some deep ruts which were becoming deeper and the terrain becoming steeper so I decided I needed to be out of them. I switched from 'High' to 'High Locked' and tried to climb out of the side but this wasn't working so like a bit of an EEEJUT I had to gun it a bit. I thought the wheels were spinning but then was shocked when smoke (and stench) started pouring from under the body. I switched the engine off, had a little reassess of the situation and then drove out properly with no problems

Why didn't you use your Low Ratio gears?

 

[Rob Johnson]

I didn't really think it warranted it tbh. I tend to start off in lower gears escalating as required to centre diff locked, then low ratio, then rear diff locked with the front diff locking being my last resort before the winch comes out (which it never has had to make an appearance)

It was a bit of an impromptu route and there was only two of us in my vehicle with no other vehicles for support so I did try and blast it a bit and keep the momentum going!

 

[Chris]

You have a front diff lock?

That's a pretty exclusive club.


Chris

 

[Rob Johnson]

Yeah, it has ARB front and back, they were on when I bought it.

It was built/prepared by Nene Overland for a doctor who was going to work in Africa, It fell through and my mate bought it off Nene, ran it for a few years then sold it to me.

I'll try and put a couple of pics on here. Been meaning to since I joined.

 

[Chris]

Excellent. Although I found that the front locker didn't ad that much extra. But I did a short wheelbase Colorado. I think the LWB might just have the edge.

Chris

 

[BobMurphy]

Milners list a clutch kit for £154, is that all I need or is there anything else? Are uprated clutches available?

Milners have two types of clutch - one for vehicles with the completely flat flywheel and the other where the flywheel has a rim around the edge.

Naturally I got the wrong one the first time around

The VIN details don't seem to help in determining which type you have - I supplied Milners with all the details but the clutch didn't match the flywheel.

I haven't seen a heavy duty clutch anywhere, maybe others can help ?

Changing it yourself is not too difficult if you have reasonable facilities and you don't mind a few bruises .

Remove the centre console, gear lever and transfer lever from inside the car.

Put the car up on axel stands (both ends) to give plenty of room underneath.

Remove the plastic under trays.

Drain the gearbox and transfer box oil and remove the front and rear propshafts from the Transfer box, and the front propshaft from the diff flange.

Support the gearbox.

Disconnect all the electrical connections (speedo drive, centre diff lock and low box detector switches) and remove the cross member under the Transfer Box.

Disconnect the forward exhaust from the header downpipe and centre section (to allow the motor to tilt back).

Remove the transfer box bolts while supporting the transfer box. Its an awkward shape and a transmission jack won't fit it. I put a couple of sacks over my knees and hold it with my knees whilst lying on my back. This is where the bruises come from

With everythying free, use your knees to work the transfer box free. You may have to lower the gearbox & rear of the motor with your free hand ( ).

The transfer box will now be lying in your lap, it weighs 50 kilos so shouldn't kill you. you can crawl out from under the car in order to remove it safely. Its not a good idea to drop it onto a concrete floor .

With the transfer box removed, Undo and lower the front anti-roll bar. This will allow the gearbox to be separated from the motor.

Clamp-off the clutch flexi-hose and undo the hose from the slave cylinder. I remove the slave cylinder and plumbing from the bell housing, but isn't strictly necessary.

With every socket extension you've got (you will need about one metre), plus a 17mm socket, undo the bolts holding the gearbox to the motor. I support the box on a scissor transmission jack whilst doing this. It is necessary to lower the rear of the box to get (long reach) access to the upper bolts. There is one nut - on the starter motor mounting.

With everything loose, the gearbox can be worked back and twisted to clear the steering rack and front diff companion flange. Its a bit of a pain, but it will come free.

Carefully lower the gearbox to the ground. I have sacks all around it in case it falls (it has ).

Changing the clutch is straightforward. It might be an idea to change the spigot bearing while you're at it. I made up a slide hammer from a 12mm rawlbolt to remove it from the crankshaft.

Putting it all back together is a bit tricky as you can't see where the input shaft is going. Sometimes it just pops back in, sometimes it doesn't.

Maybe spending £400 isn't such a bad idea

Unless you enjoy a challenge .

Bob.

 

[Rob Johnson]

Wow!!!

Cheers for the concise instructions, I had a 'sweat on' reading them!!

I think it is defo a job for a professional or at least someone with better facilities/kit than me!

I tried the suggested 'stall test' last night, holding on brakes and letting clutch out, the beast shook it's head in retaliation then stalled with no signs of slippage!! I'll carry on using it for a bit but it's niggling in my mind that a clutch change is coming up!

Cheers

 

[Andrew Prince]

Rob, if that doesn't convince you that £400 is cheap at the price, then nothing ever will

 

[BobMurphy]

Rob, if that doesn't convince you that £400 is cheap at the price, then nothing ever will

Its a pig of a job (but I like to take my time, clean everything up and check for other problems while I'm under there ).

I wasn't trying to over-sell the idea

Bob.