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split charge options

paulm

Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2011
Messages
172
whats the general consensus for running auxillary batteries on the 80?

is it best to leave the main and aux batteries alone to do their thing, and then run a third battery in another location?
something like the national luna portable power pack? this way you can still run all your gubbins off this third battery and have the full 24v from the main two to start the vehicle again...

many thanks

Paul
 
This is what I use & have done for the last 6 years with no problems, simple to install & operate

http://ibs-tech.ch/en/products/dual-battery-system.html

There are other systems or you can make up your own, doubtless somebody else here will advise of the alternatives

I also use two auxillary batteries for all of my accessories, winch / fridge / lighting etc etc and leave the 2 engine batteries for just the engine & stuff

Andy
 
Many thanks Andy,
That looks like a really good system, and I like the option to backfeed the main battery in cases of emergency.
Which system would be most suitable? the IBS-DBR with microprocessor - 12v?
Presumably one side of the display would show the two main batteries, then the other side would show the auxillary? And then if you wanted to run a 4th battery you would run this in parallel with the 3rd?

Where is the best place to buy this kit?

Thanks
 
If you want an incredibly simple system that's cheap and does what it says on the packet, you can just use something like this. It will simply charge, and keep topped, up a spare battery which frankly is all you need.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Victron-Battery-C ... 3cb6cb4b6f

I had the IBS and loved it. The ability to use combine the batteries was handy on the Colorado as one of the batteries was failing a bit. But on an 80 it's 24v anyway and has two new batteries. I went with the really big brother of the Cyrix Victron system which is 400 amp connected with 50mm cable. You can override to charge the stater if you want, but I haven't. Works fantastically well. Dunno if anyone out there has a spare one. We bought a load but everyone fitted theirs.

IMGP4169.jpg


Chris
 
There was an IBS for sale in the classifieds a little while ago :shifty:
 
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Why, Jon do you know, I believe there was.

Good gadge. I liked mine. This new system doesn't have flashy lights, but it will handle big currents and when I come to power my rear winch I might just come straight from the rear battery. Big reserve but being supplied from the alternator too.

OK, got to get me a rear winch first. Now where did Mrs Chris hide my credit card? :violin:
 
paulm said:
did it find itself a home?
I believe it is being used as a spare / backup and is still available :whistle: it's here

The units with voltage sensing built into the solenoid like Chris has are good, pretty much fit and forget and no control box to install just the solenoid so a simpler install. The benefit of the IBS is having the display really and the voltage warnings i.e. if your solenoid fails it will notice and beep likewise there's a low battery warning and the charge voltage display.

There's also the gadget I'm using that has made my IBS surplus if you're up for something more complicated :)
 
as much as i would love to do that, i've got far too much to sort out on the vehicle already, and i'd get carried away with the shiny spangly display screen project!
 
The 'gadget' is why you didn't have a call from me on the IBS... :mrgreen:
 
Hve a google for "adverc". Great value, no nonsense. I've had one in my Landrover for two years and it's ideal. I can also flip to the aux battery for starting in the event of a problem by just holding a momentary switch. They're far cheaper than nat Luna etc
 
ok, the IBS arrived today, cheers Jon :D

quick question. should i fuse the power going to the IBS before the relay? I have the fuse available and can chuck in anything from 150A to 300A. i think the IBS is rated at 200A - does that mean its got built in protection, or it will just go pop?
i was thinking of putting a fuse between the battery and the IBS relay, then running my 0-gauge straight to the battery in the boot. so the IBS relay will be within the engine bay.

also, where should i take the power cable from? i have a battery terminal to take it directly from the battery if needs be, but which battery should i use? im not too sure on which battery does what at the front...

thanks :)
 
The IBS solenoid doesn't (AFAIK) have any built in overload protection. You need a fuse as close as is practical to the battery at each end so not just the front battery but your aux battery as well and I would use 150amp so you have a margin for safety and will know if you are approaching the limits if those fuses start blowing. Can't help you with which battery to connect to at the front because my memory is fading on that.
 
Chris said:
I went with the really big brother of the Cyrix Victron system which is 400 amp connected with 50mm cable. You can override to charge the stater if you want, but I haven't. Works fantastically well. Dunno if anyone out there has a spare one. We bought a load but everyone fitted theirs.

Chris

The Cyrix Victron system has worked well for me, and was really useful in the winter when my main starter battery packed-in on one -20 morning when i had driven to the dentist. Came out of dentist and starter battery flat, so i used the override system to start the vehicle off the auxillary battery.
 
I am going another route altogether. I am removing the 24v starter and replacing with a 12v version. I will then fit a dual sense split charger to the now 'spare' battery which will be used for the winch/fridge ect, the starter arrived in the country yesterday which once it arrives will be rebuilt before fitting hopefully the last week in this month.

regards

Dave
 
No ability to EDIT but I have since done the conversion to 12 volt starting and all is well at the moment.

regards

Dave
 
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