Starter Motor

[guyc]

Just popped into Tesco to pick up some bits and when I returned to the truck, it wouldn't turn over. There was a faint click from what I assume was a solenoid and then nothing. I left it a bit and tried again. This time a loud ticka - ticka - ticka - ticka and definitely something spinning. After a short pause turning the key did nothing but a quiet whine. Each time I turned the key I got one of the responses above.

I rang the AA who eventually arrived and clobbered the starter motor with his jack handle but to no avail.

Eventually I was recovered to my local garage.

Looking at past threads, starter motors seem to be a weak link relatively speaking.

Options appear to either be a starter motor repair kit or a new starter motor.

Does anyone have any other ideas?

 

[Firewout]

The contacts in the starter motor also wear. They are easy and not expensive to replace when the starter motor is out.

 

[Chris]

Sorry to hear that Guy. I think that may well be the original so it's done incredibly well. First job would certainly to be to look at the contacts.

 

[StarCruiser]

As above Guy, undo three screws off the back of the starter motor and have a look at the contacts. There's a repair kit available with wider contacts and a plunger. Quite straightforward to do but do put some low strength stud loc on the screws when they go back. Sometimes the contacts stick and run the starter motor disengaged which flattens the batteries.

 

[Roger]

Looking at past threads, starter motors seem to be a weak link relatively speaking.

Guy, what the others have said is good info, the strip down and rebuild is really not that difficult and the rebuild kit is a sensible price.

I feel the need to defend our 80's on a point you make. Even relatively speaking the 80 starters are dammed good!

Mine is the original unit, started the motor for about 200,000 miles over 25 years - has been full of mud and crap at least 6 times per year but still responds to a strip down and clean up as necessary.

With hand on heart I can tell you that Lucas (or incarnations of) on any LandRover V8 cannot take 10% of that level of abuse, the closest to be being a strong unit was the Marrinelli one, but even they failed and really didnt like a DIY strip down. I have spent £££ on LR starters - my first run of putting Megasquirt on a v8 (before the internet caught up with instructions and procedure) saw off 4 starter motors

I used to own a Unimog also, guess what was a genuine weak link on that - the starter and it was eye wateringly expensive to have rebuilt.

Although you have got me thinking what is a genuine weak link on them - perhaps I am too sympathetic but Im struggling to give anything of note, perhaps the diff lock actuators - but then its mainly salt and corrosion that kills them.

 

[guyc]

Would anyone be able to tell me whether this is the correct repair kit please?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-T...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

Whilst it lists an 80 as being one of the compatible vehicles in the description, the description also mentions a 2.7kW starter.

Looking at the Service Specifications in RM172E, it lists the 24V starter as being 4.5kW.

Apologies for the questions but I'm surreptitiously trying to sort it out whilst at work so I can give the garage a steer.

 

[Roger]

That should be fine Guy and serve the 24v one fine.

 

[StarCruiser]

I'm not certain on that one Guy. Give Mike at Robson and Francis a call. 020 7733 2353 He should be able to get you sorted with the correct kit and the uprated bigger contacts.
Tell him Richard sent you.

 

[madmanmart]

Check the starter relay

 

[karl webster]

I was thinking the same way mart. Doesn't have to be an issue with the starter. Dud batteries could also be a place to look

 

[Chris]

OK all good points but having owned the vehicle I can tell you that I never had the starter apart so it's probably really worth a look in any case. It might not be the cause, but don't let that be the next thing. It's an easy job and worth a look-see.

 

[madmanmart]

I'd be checking the simple things before pulling the starter to pieces.

 

[Chris]

It's preventative maintenance matey. Hardly 'pulling the starter to pieces'. There's three small machine screws holding the cover on. Quick look see inside and look at the contacts which we all know burn out over time. There's only one nut and a bolt holding the thing on. I've had one off in under 10 minutes.

One of the simple things to do, is check the engine earth strap. Take a jump lead, earth it onto one of the engine lifting hooks with the other end to the chassis / body and turn the key. The engine only earths through one strap on the block.

The other one mentioned was batteries. I happen to know they're good batteries. However, batteries as we know can fail without warning so worth having them checked. The 24 volt set up is a funny beast. You can have a smallish fault with one cell and it just knocks the starter system right out. That's why I went to 12volt. It's more complicated than it needs to be, but we've already debated that long and hard in the past.

 

[Billy Williams]

I'd be checking the simple things before pulling the starter to pieces.

good advice

 

[Chris]

And these simple things are ......

 

[Firewout]

I had to replace the starter motor contacts in both the hzj75 (at 200k) and the hdj80. (At 360k kms) so imho I would check them anyway.
Afaik they are both the same 4.5 kw 24v startermotors

 

[StarCruiser]

And these simple things are ......

A multimeter set to volts placed:-

1. across the main (big) starter solenoid contacts,
2. across the starter supply cable to block and
3. from the solenoid coil (little) contact to block.

Three simple tests that should all be done at rest then with someone turning the key to the start position. Results of good tests are:-

1. 12v then 0v
2. 12v then 24v
3. 0v then 12v

Voltages are approximate within a few volts.
No1 is likely to go 12v then 24v if you have failed contacts. Anything different, report findings here.

First rule of troubleshooting- 'thou shalt not assume'.

 

[Chris]

I remember when we had the issue with Byron's 80 in Morocco. We tried everything. Even two sets of jump leads to the batteries and it just would not fire. The spanner monkeys worked on it for hours. They even resorted to checking the washer fluid. Just nothing worked. They they dropped another battery on the passenger side and hey presto we were off. But nothing we did showed a battery fault.

 

[frank rabbets]

You can test each battery in turn by connecting a voltmeter accross each in turn and turning the starter. Voltage should not drop dramatically. If you get a click then 2 volts it's a dead battery.

2 earth straps on my standard spec 1995. one each side of the block.

 

[StarCruiser]

You can test each battery in turn by connecting a voltmeter accross each in turn and turning the starter. Voltage should not drop dramatically. If you get a click then 2 volts it's a dead battery.

…as until the key is turned to start, the batteries are connected in parallel so will (dependent on battery fault) register the voltage of the good battery.

My tests above will also show this.