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Stop / Hinder Rust from the inside out

I always seem to sound like Uncle Albert (Fools and Horses) but years ago... (not durin' the wowa!) my 1955 A30 was wired as Austin intended +ve earth. Most cars of that age were the same, but there was a trend, which continued, towards -ve earth, and I was led to believe the change was intended to reduce rusting. Can there be any truth in that? The theory as explained to me was that the atmosphere naturally had a -ve charge, thus a positively charged car body would be permanently under ionic attack.

I have no idea whether there's any sense in that or whether I was told a load of BS, anyway that's what came to mind reading this thread, although there's no relevance there is a "connection". Ouch!, what a lousy pun... :doh:
 
I always seem to sound like Uncle Albert (Fools and Horses) but years ago... (not durin' the wowa!) my 1955 A30 was wired as Austin intended +ve earth. Most cars of that age were the same, but there was a trend, which continued, towards -ve earth, and I was led to believe the change was intended to reduce rusting. Can there be any truth in that? The theory as explained to me was that the atmosphere naturally had a -ve charge, thus a positively charged car body would be permanently under ionic attack.




I have no idea whether there's any sense in that or whether I was told a load of BS, anyway that's what came to mind reading this thread, although there's no relevance there is a "connection". Ouch!, what a lousy pun... :doh:

I think this may be a bit of a red herring. The charge in the atmosphere will vary, weather being a major factor. Besides, a car body will only carry a charge (pos or neg) in relation to the opposite pole of it's battery, not necessarily to that of the surrounding atmosphere. JMO
 
Sounds logical. I wonder what the change from +ve earth to -ve earth was all about then? I don't think there's a car on the market now with +ve earth. In reality either or neither can be better or worse that the other. :think:
 
I won't even try to pretend to understand the science of it all but as i'm reading this i am wondering why battery terminals and connections corrode ?
 
I seem to remember systems like this many many years ago, if they worked then :think: why did they not become known about and more popular, . . . . my opinion, it's snake oil. :thumbdown:
 
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I won't even try to pretend to understand the science of it all but as i'm reading this i am wondering why battery terminals and connections corrode ?

Keeping out moisture is the key to corrosion free battery terminals and connections. If it gets into connections it can act as an electrolyte between the two metal surfaces causing corrosion, much worse if it's salty water.
 
So keeping things dry with say a protective coating is the best way to prevent rust eh - who would have thought that :whistle:
 
I think this may be a bit of a red herring. The charge in the atmosphere will vary, weather being a major factor. Besides, a car body will only carry a charge (pos or neg) in relation to the opposite pole of it's battery, not necessarily to that of the surrounding atmosphere. JMO

We could all strap some red herrings to our filler pipes, and claim better fuel consumption! :lol:
 
So keeping things dry with say a protective coating is the best way to prevent rust eh - who would have thought that :whistle:

You were remarking/asking about battery terminals. Batt terminal corrosion isn't rust.
 
Sorry Towpack it was a dig at the product i meant to put forward rather than anything else . I have little or no faith in the whole electical anodes thing the ones on my boat are sacrificial supposedly to prevent wear on bronze propellers and stainless steel shafts and it is assumed by all they work because they wear out and disintegrate while the prop and shaft don't . Seems to me the same results can be seen if i were to leave a soft nail and a hard nail sticking out of my hull being dragged through the water at 15 knots day in and day out , both will wear away one will just go much quicker than the other .
 
Ha Ha Lazz ;) I'm still eBaying my butt off :) Nothing's stopping that
Forgot to take picture but will tonight
The proof is surely my anodes showing signs of corrosion. Not sure how else to gauge.

I have some of that sperm whale ATF oil in my truck and am not sure if there's a difference lol, so who knows! All these magic oils! :)
 
Anodes corroding doesn't necessarily mean they are stopping it happening elsewhere.
 
I've done some research on the interweb and IMHO I'm of a mind to consider anodes, magnets and red herrings to be just red herrings and a good money spinner for the vendors of these "snake oils".

Let's resume this post in 10 years' time and hope that those who have invested have shiny 30 year old trucks and are mega rich from all the fuel savings! :lol:
 
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I guess the more effective way would be to buy £80 of ACF 50 and give the underneath a good spraying on a regular basis. Its been highly effective on my motorbike over the last fer years.
I'm not convinced about the effectiveness of the RS-5 over a long period of time with no concrete evidence to prove they work on vehicles, and for that reason, I am out.:icon-biggrin:

Andy
 
The ACF50 Corrosion Block is a slightly different product to the 'standard' ACF. It's was developed for marine applications and is supposed to stay active longer. It's also green instead of purple and smells different. It's not as widely available for some reason but around the same price.
 
Thanks for that info, I will look into the "ACF 50 Corrosion Block" later. One thing though, all the treatments one religiously carries out to prevent corrosion and rust will benefit the next owner more than you!!.

Andy
 
Shipping issues

I went there and asked about it. Turns out they can't even ship their rx100 outside of the country! I wound up trying another product called Hinderrust, it worked out really well!
 
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