the creep and go 80 refurb thread.

[chapel gate]

became the owner of this last summer.

 

[chapel gate]

as is the title i will be working on this when time and money permit.
its a 12 valve auto, so will complement my 24 valve manual nicely. it will be a civilised build so nothing exciting. TBH it will be pretty boring but will document some of the more mundane jobs that come with 80 ownership.

as you can see body work needs tidying up, the rear inner arches need some welding. the gaffer tape is covering up holes left from removing a rear wheel carrier fitted by the PO.

 

[chapel gate]

One of the reasons I bought it is the underside is pretty damn good..
given it a good coating of lanoguard.

 

[frank rabbets]

They've made a nice shiny job on the rust lol.

 

[chapel gate]

Dash lights up like a Christmas tree.

Oh the engine is low on compression on a couple of cylinders. Lots of back pressure and smokes badly. Will need a rebuild.

I rebuilt this over winter to replace it.

 

[chapel gate]

Yum...

 

[chapel gate]

They've made a nice shiny job on the rust lol.

Come up well hasn't it Frank.

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Surprising how tidy some of these old 80's are underneath, even if they haven't had a lot of care. Mine's similar, and also a 12v auto, so probably similar era. I do wonder if there was a sweet spot in the production timeline for whatever coatings the body got.

 

[chapel gate]

Surprising how tidy some of these old 80's are underneath, even if they haven't had a lot of care. Mine's similar, and also a 12v auto, so probably similar era. I do wonder if there was a sweat spot in the production timeline for whatever coatings the body got.

i know what you mean, some of the 24 valve 80s ive had in seem to be in much worse condition than some of the earlier 12 valves. must be a coincidence...?? surely..

or maybe toyota were gearing up towards the rust buckets that are the 100, 120 and 200 series...

 

[Iwan]

Maybe this truck's former owner didn't like going out in the cold and it saved the truck from the salted roads, or even the previous owner had a winter retreat in the south of Europe..
Guessing it comes down to where it was registered preferably originates south east of England and has had a lucky strike which has prevented the rust from forming.
It's a great example of the importance of good underside and not such a problem of upper body condition as in scrapes etc.

I bought the lanoguard kit a month or so ago but can't decide whether to treat the rust then paint then lanoguard?? Just worry if it's used first then to paint later, would the paint adere to the previous coat.. keeping in mind the lanoguard is recommended to re apply annually.

Well found!!

 

[chapel gate]

no paint will adhere to lanoguard.

ime you will use the most on the first couple of applications. after that its a matter of topping up the more wear prone areas. it works well but does need regular re application. as its so clean and easy to apply this isnt a problem ime. any time i do any work on the 80 or have it on the ramps i give it a quick squirt with the hand sprayer.

i know what you mean, clean off rust mechanically and apply epoxy resin paint or use a product like lanoguard, the former will look better and do the job but requires much more work. im confident the latter will do the job if applied correctly.

i have the same nightmares..

 

[frank rabbets]

You can leave a completely dry car outside on a high humidity day and see beads of water forming, especially underneath. These taste of salt so corrosion is going on almost permanently. Getting the salt off is almost impossible especially under flaky rust. I've even sand blasted parts to bar metal and have them bead up later in humid conditions.

 

[chapel gate]

Using lanoguard for a number of years now, I've noticed it seems to soften up the flakey rust and pushes it off if applied often.
It also softens old wax oil.

 

[Towpack]

The ONLY 100% guaranteed method of stopping rust IMO is to remove it completely back to clean bare metal, then prime and paint it with a quality finish. This approach is not only impractical but virtually impossible without completely stripping the whole vehicle and media blasting/dipping everything. Anything applied to existing rust, including rust "converter" is going to require reapplication at some point. The biggest mistake I made when I bought the Cruiser 18 years ago was to clean and dry the underside and plaster it with black waxoyl which I'm gradually removing as it flakes off and treating with the Aquasteel and also motorcycle chain lube which sticks like STAB and doesn't harden and flake off.

 

[frank rabbets]

Back in the day I built a Range Rover using all new panels etc. I diluted waxoil and high pressure sprayed it in to all the body cavities. Like new 5 years later. Anything applied over rust just seels the salt in the metal.

 

[Iwan]

Ohhh I'm gettin worried now! My cruiser has enough rust and don't like the sound of it going further down this route!

 

[Towpack]

Any coating applied to existing rust is best kept fairly thin so any sign of the rust getting worse can be spotted easily and dealt with. As all on here will know, a thick blanket of underseal can hide untold horrors beneath. I like the look of Lanoguard stuff as it's transparent and you can see what's going on underneath.

 

[Iwan]

Any coating applied to existing rust is best kept fairly thin so any sign of the rust getting worse can be spotted easily and dealt with. As all on here will know, a thick blanket of underseal can hide untold horrors beneath. I like the look of Lanoguard stuff as it's transparent and you can see what's going on underneath.

Indeed TP it's a bit like going into the local shop with no covering on the under carriage, but with a thin covering over it would be more acceptable when going through checkout!

 

[flint]

Surprising how tidy some of these old 80's are underneath, even if they haven't had a lot of care. Mine's similar, and also a 12v auto, so probably similar era. I do wonder if there was a sweat spot in the production timeline for whatever coatings the body got.

The Kobe steel problem might have some bearing on the rust problems, not sure what the outcome of this was:
us-kobe-steel-scandal-lawsuit-idUSKCN1GI2OI

Lanoguard seems to be helping on my 81, easy to apply too.

 

[frank rabbets]

The Japanese chairman tried to take the honorable way out by committing suicide but his samurai sword was rusty and blunt.