Transfer Low Range Front diff problems

[MarkW]

Told Ali about the Western Sahara. Don't want any problems there!

 

[MarkW]

Well it looks like the oil is cooked in the front diff. Ali's guys are just stripping it down for a better look.

 

[ByronJ]

Well it looks like the oil is cooked in the front diff. Ali's guys are just stripping it down for a better look.

With the mileage you do it was probably due a change anyway . Might be a good idea to change the rear diff oil as well as it is just been run in...

 

[MarkW]

Front diff is knackered. Being told they want to replace front and back with 43:11 ratio but I didn't know of anything other than 41:10 or 43:10 ratios

 

[Shayne]

I have R17 in my 1kz and R16 in my 1kd and i think the 1kd has the taller gearing if that's any help ?

A Hilux Surf diff is the same and might be easier to find out there ?

 

[MarkW]

R17 in mine as well. I've just had he rear rebuilt with new Toyota gears and haven't recovered from the shock of the cost yet.

They can get f&r 43:11 diffs here but its going to cost as much as the rear rebuild, theres a rebuilt front 43:10 on the bay at the moment for £450 but getting it here will take time. Garage are looking for a R17/43:10 front for me.

Supposed to be meeting the rest on Saturday, 2 days drive away............

 

[MarkW]

Well new diff has arrived which is pretty bloody impressive on the edge of the Sahara. Even more so when it took an English mechanic 3 weeks to do the rear

 

[AndyCook]

What trashed it, oil leak via a seal ?

 

[MarkW]

Heat from the explanation. Oil level was fine but smelt really bad (even for diff oil). Once stripped down there was thick metallic sludge on the on the drain plug and signs of overheating on the bearings.

Thinking about it there was a slight noise from the diff. Not enough to worry about but enough to keep an eye on.

I'm guessing that 200k miles and 6 trips to Morocco meant it was getting tired anyway and then a hot diff with a locked CDL just pushed it over the edge. It might if made the trip without anymore problems but the last place I need it going badly is the WS.

Out of curiosity what would be the 'get to safety option if there was problems in the back or beyond? Remove a drive shaft and run in 2wd?

 

[Shayne]

I was going to suggest dropping the prop for the 2 day drive if one of the guys could bring a diff out to you .

 

[diggerdave]

I was going to suggest dropping the prop for the 2 day drive if one of the guys could bring a diff out to you .

+1

Easy to get the prop off and LC would probably mange most things in 2wd (esp. if your rear diff lock works!)

Good luck and hope you get your diff sorted quickly

I've never tried it myself but they say that the best way to unstick a centre diff if the light won't go out by the usual tricks is to jack up a wheel and turn it backwards and forwards manually

 

[froggy Steve]

bugger! At least it was found before the WS! I cant believe they managed to get a replacement in a day! I hope someone isnt driving about without one!
Good luck on your trip

 

[Chris]

You drop the front prop and lock the centre in high. The front diff on a Collie does very little work normally. There isn't that much torque going through it which is why problems generally appear when you lock the centre for a 50/50 split. It then has to work which is where worn bearing suddenly show themselves. The 80 is different with the centre viscous coupling which provides drive all the time.

You can't run in 2wd with the rear diff locked unless you're in low range of course as the actuator has to detect low range first. They're pretty poor in rear only other than on tarmac where they're fine.

If the front was seized or clanking like a brick in a washing machine (remember it's still turning because of the wheels) you would need to pull the front drive shafts leaving the torpid joint in the diff.