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Turbo problems

Nobbymogs

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Jun 28, 2017
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wales
so had a few problems recently with black smoke so ordered a new turbo 125 on ebay and its ok tbh

but also bought a bigger actuator Baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad move even with a lower rated spring inside it is too much boost and spent a few hours trying to fettle to get it right and im still not happy with it tbh

so turbo has to come back off and put standard actuator on for peace of mind i will post a pic of dead turbo later
 
There's plenty of info on here about upping the boost and tuning the pump Nobby. @Shayne has done it along with a fair few others. Have a search on here, there's all the info you need to get it right.
 
Fit a boost gauge set the actuator to open at 14psi and turn the fuel up - i expect you will be very happy indeed with the result :thumbup:
 
the trouble is you have to bleed the map sensor then as it kicks in and splutters

i have a box on it now that gives it more fuel and it is hard otherwise to give it more fuel its not thats simple lol
 
A boost controller won't help if the actuator itself is pre-set at a higher PSI limit. So like you said, it's best to revert back to the original one, then get a controller and work upwards.

I can relate on the whole map sensor kicking in and splutters. I still get this under max load which is normally flooring it around 75mph -80mph, then it's fine until I hit triple digits
 
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I can relate on the whole map sensor kicking in and splutters. I still get this under max load which is normally flooring it around 75mph -80mph, then it's fine until I hit triple digits

I wonder if its exhaust back pressure Beau , your running well lean past 100 so the fuel cut stutter doesn't really add up ?
 
No idea, but this problem only came up after I ported the turbo manifold and head. Still can't find any logic behind it though. Although I'm running lean up top, it's boosting pretty much spot on 14psi if I ask for more and I imagine once it steps over to 14.1,14.2psi ect, the ecu then tries to cut the fuel which gives this splutter effect and cuts fuel. If you ease off the throttle, boost will back off ever so slightly and power will be back.

I should add, I was running the map bleeder a while back but ditched that because I felt like lower down the RPM band I was bleeding off too much boost and so power wasn't 100%. Up top it was fine though. Ideally a adjustable resistor inline to the map sensor is what's needed as it won't feedback the ECU anything more than what you program it for.
 
I didn't know you removed the boost bleed , at 14 you shouldn't be running out of spec lean :think: my guess is the bleed valve was less than accurate so how about using your gauge and the actuator washer mod to set the boost and then you can use the boost controller as a bleed valve instead ?

That said i won't be going over 14 unless i upgrade injectors , i just don't see the point when i have more than enough power already .
 
I have no washer mod and with the boost controller out, I'm still peaking boost around 14psi. With the boost controller on, the lowest setting isn't enough to lower boost as the actuator is set around 14psi. I wouldn't have a clue what I was boosting years ago, but only when I did the head work over a year ago I added the boost gauge and I've been seeing 14 psi max.
 
Ah i see so what you need is a boost controller that limits boost , my turbo smart hits around 12psi on its lowest setting , factory boost is around 6 or 7 is it not ?
 
Factory boost seems to vary across trucks, from about 6-12psi. I reckon I was on the 12psi end prior to my port work and some how I'm now at 14psi. Like you kind of mentioned maybe the exhaust is creating more back pressure on the turbo and it's forcing it to boost higher under load.
 
Of course we do Clive which is why we can advise your wooden chariot should be washed and thoroughly dried before applying a light coat of oil , the horses with appreciate it :icon-wink: :lol:
 
Of course we do Clive which is why we can advise your wooden chariot should be washed and thoroughly dried before applying a light coat of oil , the horses with appreciate it :icon-wink: :lol:

Ok, OK, no need to be cruel... :lol:

And as a quick edit, I think it's horse, in the singular...
 
A basic question from someone who's new to tuning:

When you're talking about boost level, does everyone measure it by the FSM method? By which I mean connect the boost gauge close to the MAP sensor and measure the boost with a wide open throttle without load?

I only ask because I get around 14-15 that way, but can hit 20 under load in 5th with no noticeable problems.
 
My boost gauge taps into the actuator vacuum pipe seen here
upload_2017-7-14_20-36-33.jpeg
 
and do you measure your boost by revving up to the redline while stationary Shayne?
 
No i took it out and floored it on a mild up hill gradient to see what i got then turned it up a notch , its still not bang on 14 but i can only peak boost for a moment unless i'm in top gear and the cheap gauge i use has no memory .
The fancy gauge i bought a few years ago is still in the box :icon-redface:
 
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