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Underbody protection, transfer case

Ecky Thump said:
I wondered how long it would take for someone to spot the leak. It's only extremely slight at the moment with no visible sign of the level dropping. Planned for a couple of months time as finances allow together with the dreaded BEBs but at the moment I can't afford the time to take it off the road.
Cost of bearing from Ian and the seal (bought from Mr T before I knew Ian could supply) was around £35 in total.
 
Cheers for that Andrew

I'll have a chat with Ian about the bits i need.
 
Oi, you keep that grinder in its case buddy, else there goes your warranty :lol: If you do carve it up, the paint code is RAL 9005 (I think) & you can get it in a spray can from Hard Hat/Rustoleum or in a can for painting

Nice to see one fitted up Les - thanks for posting the pic :)

Now take your leaky transfer case & make your own thread up :lol: :lol:

;)
 
I think i will cut the plastic cover, as i have done with the plastic TC cover to make way for my sliders. They don't have that much strength in then, they are there to ensure that box doesn't get caught on a rock and just slides off so cutting them wont affect their functionality IMO.
 
Does that mean you've managed to get round to fitting the kit Rob?

PS: If you are looking to sell your rack, first dibs called ;-)
 
No i havent, its still in london :evil:

Gavlad said:
PS: If you are looking to sell your rack, first dibs called ;-)
Will let you know when i decide to let it go ;)
 
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Plate is on :D

Had to take off the large guard in front of it to get it on, any plans to put one there too :cool:
 
I thought you would have done that yesterday Paul, obviously the shopping took up too much time :twisted:

Thanks for your assistance by the way ;) Tommo has your mole grips safely stowed away. Trouble with him though, is remembering where he stowed them :lol:
 
No worries, the shopping didn't take that much time but had loads of runs to the tip, does anyone want some flat pack bookshelves and desks, too good to throw away.

Anyway, just been for a run in the truck and had really bad vibrations and road noise, thought it might have something to do with the removal of the two plastic guards as they have some substantial sound proofing on them but it turned out to be the little tin guard on the rear of the gearbox contacting the bolt of the bash plate fixing. I toyed with removing the tin guard but it is needed to secure the harness on the other side to as it now hangs out in the air as the bigger plastic guard is removed. Tryed to loosen bolts and move it all a little but it is sitting where it wants to and is snug, so now just bent the tin out of the way. Shorter bolt or grind off guard will work too.

GetAttachment-1.jpg
 
Hi Paul, glad you got that turkey on ok - soory to hear about the interference with the bolt & the other bit of tin... Would it help to slide the bracket forwards/backwards to match up with the other set of slotted holes on the guard plate or do they not line up?? Failing that, a swift bit of hacksaw action on the bolt would look to solve that. I tend to go long on bolt lengths as its easier to remove rather than add length!!! Fnarr, fnarr!!!

Paul said:
Had to take off the large guard in front of it to get it on, any plans to put one there too
What age/box is your truck? Mines a '94 auto & the only plate there was the tiny ickle one as per a previous photo... You want another plate up front, you tell me where & I'll build you one!!! No snags - it'll go nicely with Les's steering guard ;-)

Good luck finding your mole grips ;-)
 
I did try sliding it around a bit and could have used the other set of holes but would have put it near the exhaust that loops over in that area and wanted the furthest back holes for best support of the plate. Like you say its easy to shorten the bolt which i will do tomorrow, the water was running accross the driveway from the rain so really just wanted to make sure all was ok, will nip a little off the bolt tomorrow.
Apart from that a really good bash plate and well worth it.

Mine is a 1995 24v manual.

Wait for the news, some warship will be in trouble soon and the day will be saved due to the molegrips sitting in the bottom of someones kitbag ;)
 
if you do make a main gearbox plate then it would be gearbox specific (auto/manual ) ;)
 
Gavlad said:
What age/box is your truck? Mines a '94 auto & the only plate there was the tiny ickle one as per a previous photo... You want another plate up front, you tell me where & I'll build you one!!! No snags - it'll go nicely with Les's steering guard ;-)
I guess the easiest thing would be to simply copy the OEM guard? Mine is the same as Les' - it would need to be modified not to contact with the t/case plate...

Cheers,
 
Hmmm, posted a reply to Paul an hour ago... It no show...

Anyhoo, no sign of a Royal Navy ship in crisis on CNN to date so I suspect the mole grips are still not found ;-)

Ref a gearbox plate, would be happy to copy OEM stuff except my OEM don't have one to copy :(

Regarding manual vs auto, I think don't think adrianr would mind being a guinea pig for the manuals... ;-)

Its stipped raining now Paul - good time to nip out & whip that bolt out ;-)

Cheers gringos
Gav
 
i might be going a little further...........

I have some bolts with a pan head and hex holes that will do the job too ;)

If you all hang on a bit i can take some piccies of the guard i took off, unfortunatly i broke one of the bolts holding it on, lucky it wasn't one that needed the hole for the new guard.
 
Gavlad said:
bolts with a pan head and hex holes
I nearly supplied that type of bolt in place of the hex head ones I did supply. I would be happy to do so if folk prefer them but I did wonder about the location under the truck incase they ever needed removing - a couple of years of crud build up in the hex hole would make removal interesting...
 
Paul, Would it be better to turn the bolt arround so its facing down, also if it came loose you are likely to only loose the nut.
 
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