Which torque converter for kzj95 with A343F automatic transmission?

[poze]

Hi,

need to replace torque converter on LC95 3.0TD 1996. Found that Dacco torque converter TO-56 and TO-61 could fit A343F automatic transmission. Does anybody know exactly which one will fit and which one should I purchase?

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thanks

 

[wobbly]

Dont know, but interested to know the answer when you find out !

What makes you want to change it, and what mileage had you done?

Pete

 

[poze]

Almost no acceleration, 0-100 in over 20+ seconds, increased fuel consumption, at oil overheating after two oil flushes and filter change. Odometer says 270k km, but it's more likely it has over 400k km. However trans looks fine, shifting it relatively smooth and in time, both shifting up and down...

It seems that no one knows for sure so I will have to risk on this one

 

[wobbly]

This is the first one ive heard of being changed - normally its antifreeze in the coolant issues, but sounds like youve covered that already.

Would a 2nd hand box not be just as easy?

Pete

 

[Duvs]

the TO-61 is listed on amazon as being for the A343F.
this page has a whole load of specs on the 90 series, says your transfer is a 'VF3B'. lots of info like ratios there too.

if you need to find donor bits this lists toyota transmissions and the models they were installed in

these guys in Oz specialise in ATs and torque converter bits n upgrades - may have parts or ideas of interest to you
as to these guys in US.

 

[poze]

Ordered that one from ebay (floridatorque), TO61, seems the most affordable. Others either require that I send them broken converter first or shippning is absurdly high.


Thanks for infos!

 

[jbecks]

Dis you carry out a stall test?

 

[poze]

No, but I bet it would be off the chart.

 

[poze]

This is the first one ive heard of being changed - normally its antifreeze in the coolant issues, but sounds like youve covered that already.

Would a 2nd hand box not be just as easy?

Pete

Complete second hand at transmission costs in $3k range. Managed to get converter for under $350.

 

[poze]

Done stall test, over 2300rpm

 

[jbecks]

well, the manual says stall range should be on the 1kzte;

2350 (+/- 150)

same values for Reverse

 

[poze]

Interesting... I've read that stall speed should be around 700rpm less than rpm on which engine gives top torque? According to that I assumed that stall speed should be around 1300rpm. Can you share manual please?

 

[jbecks]

cant remember where I got the manual from, but its in the RM517E manual, which is applicable for the KZJ90/95 body and chassis. Where about did you get your figures from?

 

[poze]

Googled it a bit and found that stall speed should be around 700rpm lower than rpm on which engine delivers max torque. Well I allready got new converter, waiting for new rad, will change atf oil and do couple more things (replace o rings etc) and see how it works after all that. ATF oil is really in bad state, so I suspect there is leaking in rad.

Thanks for this scan

 

[jbecks]

If you pm me your email address I'll send you the whole manual, I was going to suggest cleaning out the rad etc

 

[wobbly]

There are a series of clutchs within the auto box that may have been contaminated by the coolant, I guess pulling the box and examining it will be the way ahead.

I dont remember ever reading of an auto transmission fault that wasnt due to the coul in the rad failing, I suspect yours will ultimately be the same cause.

One of the few weaknesses with an otherwise brilliant design (sensitive heads being the other )

Keep us updated.

Pete

 

[poze]

We'll see how whole thing will look like after rad, converter and oil are changed and replaced. Didn't drive it much after I noticed that at fluid is in bad state so hopefully trans is still in relatively good shape (right now it shifts up and down really nicely, no bangs or anything similar).

 

[poze]

Ok, here's update. If you need new converter for kzj95 right one is http://www.ebay.com/itm/251592268116?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT (seller is great). After replacing rad and oil I noticed that there was no oil overheating anymore. Then did first try with converter replacement - was wrong one. Then oil started leaking from bell... got second, right converter, new front seal, replaced everything but transmission is still leaking oil. Was driving car with this leak, noticed huge improvement after converter replacement, however it seems that transmission was not downshifting well, when in D car was accelerating poorly, revs were high and I had to change to L in order to get right acceleration. I guess this might be sympthom of low oil level and leakage. After speding a fortune, I've decided to get manual transmission and make conversion.

My mistake was that when I first got car I had to replace oil (with good brand like Mobil), filter and seal. I think none of the problems would happen if this was done on time.


Does anyone has any idea where (or what or how) might be leaking if front oil seal on transmission is a brand new one, toyota origial?

 

[poze]

Replaced it with another lc95 with manual transmission, so no more worries about trans