MarkW
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Who is doing what maintenance today?
- Thread starter warrenpfo
- Start date
I was clearly being too subtle ... 
I went straight into the gutter with needing to fix the grooves on my shaft....
Never mind Chris. 3 weeks you say??
Never mind Chris. 3 weeks you say??
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I've used speedy sleeves in the past and they've always been excellent. Those grooves look like one metal on metal and the other looks like a standard lip seal groove. Should be better than new with the speedies on there making the seal a smidge tighter.
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Never mind that, get back to making those back windows! 
Don't think they're metal on metal grooves. That's not really possible. I think they're just the usual grooves you get but one was pre marr-tack and one post marr-tack, that's all.
Don't think they're metal on metal grooves. That's not really possible. I think they're just the usual grooves you get but one was pre marr-tack and one post marr-tack, that's all.
Scott
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Sorry to see that the 80 has given you a bit of grief Chris. You are right in what you have stated above I did the axle rebuild with Overland Cruisers back in late 2009 IIRC, at the same time the BEBs where swapped out. All genuine parts were used except for the CVs, these I think were Blue Point.
I don't recall call there being anything like that wear when we did the work, but she has covered a few miles since then doing the trips. Glad you got it all sorted, good work with the Speediseal sleeve, your a dab hand at all this these days! Hope you have many more miles and smiles in the Cruiser.
Edit: The CVs are reported to be good for atleast 30K, they have done that, so I'd be interested in how they are doing. At a fraction of the cost of genuine CVs it was worth the risk of slightly less longevity compared to genuine. At the price one can be carried in the spares kit for trips.
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Well there's no clicking Scott, but there was a little backlash in them. However there seemed to be no visible wear in the ball bearings or the cup. But there was some in the cage itself. It looked as though the edges were wearing a little. But all washed out and clean, they didn't rattle about and in fact trying to get the balls out wasn't easy. Still quite snug. Can't see them failing during my ownership. Questions is, do I pull the other side now....It looks dry enough for the moment. But ...
Hmm.
Hmm.
Replaced the AHC oil in the 100 this week, first time in my ownership (11 months), I have been meaning to do it for a while but other more important maintenance issues have taken priority.
I got 5 litres of genuine oil from Milners as it was cheaper than my local dealer, the job itself was very easy, it has been covered several times before I am sure so I wont go to in depth with a DIY "how to".
The only thing to add was a sprayed the bleed nipples with WD40 several times over a few day's prior to the job as they looked fairly rusty and untouched, they all undone fine weather this was down to the spray or not, but either way I felt more confident they would not shear off!
The old oil was grim it looked like a 50/50 mix of Bovril and hyd oil, where as the new oil looks like red diesel and was much thinner say like brake fluid.
The result was an hour well spent (could do it in about half that time once you have it in your head what's where etc) now the ride does indeed seem smoother and the suspension cycles up and down quicker too.
I got 5 litres of genuine oil from Milners as it was cheaper than my local dealer, the job itself was very easy, it has been covered several times before I am sure so I wont go to in depth with a DIY "how to".
The only thing to add was a sprayed the bleed nipples with WD40 several times over a few day's prior to the job as they looked fairly rusty and untouched, they all undone fine weather this was down to the spray or not, but either way I felt more confident they would not shear off!
The old oil was grim it looked like a 50/50 mix of Bovril and hyd oil, where as the new oil looks like red diesel and was much thinner say like brake fluid.
The result was an hour well spent (could do it in about half that time once you have it in your head what's where etc) now the ride does indeed seem smoother and the suspension cycles up and down quicker too.
MarkW
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Refurbed a couple of my wheels. Only planned to bring a tatty one up to the same as the rest but it ended up looking like new so now I need to do all of them
Before
Also started a refurb on my last lower suspension arm. Stripped out old bushes, wire brush, fertan rust treatment and paint with new bushes
Before
After
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Before
Also started a refurb on my last lower suspension arm. Stripped out old bushes, wire brush, fertan rust treatment and paint with new bushes
Before
After
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Just drained the soup out of my front axle (Green '93 80) after doing the inner axle oil seal. Scott you'd have wept mate. It was shocking. Put a clean fill in and will give it a week or so then drop it. At the same time I'll probably open up the other swivel and take a peek. I can replace the seal and do the shaft repair if necessary but hopefully won't be greeted by the same carnage as last week.
Chris, the metal on metal I was referring to was thinking the shaft had dropped out of centre of the shaft seal and rested on the metal ring that surrounds the seal, hence the seal letting by. Might be worth a look at the metal bit of the seal to see if it's polished at all. Just a thought, you're probably right.
No, I know what you meant mate, that's why I said not possible. The 80 isn't put together like that. The seal isn't supporting the shaft at all. The CV is held in the stub axle and the other end of the main shaft is pushed into the diff. Even if you didn't have a seal in there the shaft would still be central. it can't touch the sides. The shaft DOES move slightly both in and out and very slightly in a sort of weathervane round and round but only very slightly. It absolutely classic seal position wear. Once from new and then again in it's new fixed position due to the marr-tacking. Originally the shaft would move in and out of the seal spreading the wear when cornering. But in the straight ahead position it would settle in one place. When you eliminate that end float by tacking it, the seal has to run in the same place all the time and it's the CV that floats due to the lack of a snap ring inside the Birfiield joint.
Yes, I know the seal shouldn't be and is not designed to support the shaft. Heaven forbid! [emoji15] My point was if the bronze bushings became worn then the shaft could theoretically droop, causing the seal to oval with consequent leakage. As you say, with the tacking, the birfield will remain in the hub and should not droop. I would have expected my theory to have held a little more water if the birfield were allowed more movement. Perhaps it broke free at some point in its life and got tacked as a repair? Still, with it being a seal groove, that's ruled that out. Like I say, just my theory.
A Elk.
A Elk.
I have to confess that it is at this point I am running out of ways to say 'no'.
Sorry, but no. This is classic seal wear from 2 incarnations of the vehicle's history. It's not like it's rare. Nor actually even that bad. I've had much worse. You wouldn't marr-tack as a repair. That make no sense at all really. It's a very deliberate modification that was done by JV at Overland Cruisers.
If the bronze bushes wore to virtually nothing (which they couldn't really because of the fit of the CV in the stub axle) you still couldn't create contact with the inside of the axle seal seating. The grooves are smooth from miles or wear. If they were as a result of catastrophic failure they'd be different I am sure. The CV would be battering around like a brick in a cement mixer. And the seal seat would be battered to hell as well which it isn't.
Sorry, but no. This is classic seal wear from 2 incarnations of the vehicle's history. It's not like it's rare. Nor actually even that bad. I've had much worse. You wouldn't marr-tack as a repair. That make no sense at all really. It's a very deliberate modification that was done by JV at Overland Cruisers.
If the bronze bushes wore to virtually nothing (which they couldn't really because of the fit of the CV in the stub axle) you still couldn't create contact with the inside of the axle seal seating. The grooves are smooth from miles or wear. If they were as a result of catastrophic failure they'd be different I am sure. The CV would be battering around like a brick in a cement mixer. And the seal seat would be battered to hell as well which it isn't.
