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Who is doing what maintenance today?
- Thread starter warrenpfo
- Start date
After adjusting the rear handbrake again I turned my attention to getting one of the TPMS senders off the tyre valve. It clearly didn't like the Moroccan salt and the sender body was welded onto the stem thread. And I mean welded. In the end in a clumsy moment I went and damaged the stem. Yes another of those 5 minute jobs that goes ass up.
Well with air pissing out (Moroccan air actually) I really had no choice but to change the valve. I have never done one of these before but knew what to do. Whipped the wheel off, used the high lift bead breaker adapt or at the valve location and in no time at all, had the old stem cut off and pulled out. I had spare valves and a puller but it seemed that my new stems were slightly fatter than the originals. I had read there were different sizes. I ripped two to bits trying to seat them but in the end popped one in with a proper slathering of grease.
Hit the lever on the airline with the built in tank and "pop" the bead was seated and the wheel back on.
All good. Then I found another one crusted on. Grrrrrr. Morocco still biting me in the ass.
Soaking this one in Penoil first for a few days before getting the mole grips out.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Well with air pissing out (Moroccan air actually) I really had no choice but to change the valve. I have never done one of these before but knew what to do. Whipped the wheel off, used the high lift bead breaker adapt or at the valve location and in no time at all, had the old stem cut off and pulled out. I had spare valves and a puller but it seemed that my new stems were slightly fatter than the originals. I had read there were different sizes. I ripped two to bits trying to seat them but in the end popped one in with a proper slathering of grease.
Hit the lever on the airline with the built in tank and "pop" the bead was seated and the wheel back on.
All good. Then I found another one crusted on. Grrrrrr. Morocco still biting me in the ass.
Soaking this one in Penoil first for a few days before getting the mole grips out.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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chadr
Well-Known Member
After seeing LED instrument bulbs on Chris' 80 build thread, I ordered and received some LED instrument bulbs (specific kit for a "Prado J90 1996-2002") from Oz a few days ago.
So today I got around to taking the instrument binnacle apart to fit the new bulbs..............now this in itself is a bit of a departure for me; I usually sit on new parts for at least 12-18 months or until the originals break, before I get off my butt to do anything. However today I thought, "let's end the year on a high!". Anyway enough about my lack of inertia.........
Out of the 5(? or so) "illumination" bulbs on the binnacle, 4 of them are of the T10/501 variety (i.e. those used in most sidelights etc.) and only 1 of them is the smaller (whatever) version. The LED kit I have been provided just has 6 of these smaller bulbs.
I've emailed the supplier and am waiting for a response. That'll teach me for getting too eager!
Oh well, better put my feet up and have another beer
Add : Just ordered some LED T10/501/W5W bulbs off the bay, which looked OK. Hopefully get them in the next few days and complete this "little" job.
So today I got around to taking the instrument binnacle apart to fit the new bulbs..............now this in itself is a bit of a departure for me; I usually sit on new parts for at least 12-18 months or until the originals break, before I get off my butt to do anything. However today I thought, "let's end the year on a high!". Anyway enough about my lack of inertia.........
Out of the 5(? or so) "illumination" bulbs on the binnacle, 4 of them are of the T10/501 variety (i.e. those used in most sidelights etc.) and only 1 of them is the smaller (whatever) version. The LED kit I have been provided just has 6 of these smaller bulbs.
I've emailed the supplier and am waiting for a response. That'll teach me for getting too eager!
Oh well, better put my feet up and have another beer
Add : Just ordered some LED T10/501/W5W bulbs off the bay, which looked OK. Hopefully get them in the next few days and complete this "little" job.
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Towpack
Well-Known Member
Finally got the rear window replaced today by Autowindscreens. 3rd time luck after they brought the wrong glass the first time and missed a 2nd appointment. The rubber came off perfectly and undamaged revealing a bit of rust on the lower lip which I did know about so treated it while the guy was cleaning up the rubber. Just need some sealer (Arbomast or similar) to fully seal the rubber to the body. The fitter had none left. Perfect working HRW now.
- Joined
- May 20, 2010
- Messages
- 5,809
Takes two min Chris. Flat screw driver from the inside. Feed rubber over the tailgate rim and leave that screwdriver there. Get another flat driver and do the same again an inch away. Then repeat until rubbers external all the way round.
- Joined
- May 20, 2010
- Messages
- 5,809
It's not so tricky just DONT USE ARBOMAST unless you want it to leak.
This stuff is similar to what Toyota used (not identical, but close)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/221384238072
And remains like blu tak. Really pleased with how it has sealed my windscreen which leaked EVERY time Autoglass did it (4 times). I've kept a blob of it in the garage since fitting the screen and it is still flexible though has gone a lot firmer than it was in the tube.
When I took my rear window out I cleaned up the rubber completely and used bitumastic gutter seal. Had I come across this sooner, I would have used the butyl stuff instead.
With no sealant on your rubber you should be able to get the glass out quite easily working from one of the top corners gently down the top and side. I put gaffer tape over a paint scraper to help fold back the rubber and used plastic 4mm packers like they use for double glazing to fold it back further, leaving them in as I went, though the ridges on these make things a bit more tricky.
This stuff is similar to what Toyota used (not identical, but close)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/221384238072
And remains like blu tak. Really pleased with how it has sealed my windscreen which leaked EVERY time Autoglass did it (4 times). I've kept a blob of it in the garage since fitting the screen and it is still flexible though has gone a lot firmer than it was in the tube.
When I took my rear window out I cleaned up the rubber completely and used bitumastic gutter seal. Had I come across this sooner, I would have used the butyl stuff instead.
With no sealant on your rubber you should be able to get the glass out quite easily working from one of the top corners gently down the top and side. I put gaffer tape over a paint scraper to help fold back the rubber and used plastic 4mm packers like they use for double glazing to fold it back further, leaving them in as I went, though the ridges on these make things a bit more tricky.
Without, mine leaked after it was pulled out and refitted after being tinted. The stuff I show has been so good I wouldn't personally dream of doing glass without it.
Good idea Chris…[emoji4]
Towpack
Well-Known Member
After having seen a pro do it I'd have no hesitation in trying it myself in future, windscreen excluded. Starting in the middle of the seals top run, inside, just prise the rubber over the lip to around 3/4 of the way down each side and the glass pops out. The fitter recommended/uses Arbomast but Wickes sell a Unbond butyl based gutter sealer that looks very similar if not exactly the same. The guy also said on NO account use silicone RTV type sealer. Will probably use the Unibond stuff if I can't get any Arbomast locally tomorrow. Pretty certain mine was the original glass so they must've used sealer on the production line.
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Paddler Ed
Well-Known Member
Did some washing today (albeit not of the 4Runner):
Washed 3 out of the 4 bikes we have, and I decided the easiest way to dry mine was to hang it up to dry...
Washed 3 out of the 4 bikes we have, and I decided the easiest way to dry mine was to hang it up to dry...
