Who is doing what maintenance today?

[tonytoyota]

Hi Andy wee will .

 

[BobMurphy]

Its '100 tailgate time' . . .. Oh Joy !

I can't ignore the dangling number plate lights any longer .




I peeled off the "Toyota Lansdcruiser Amazon" sticker to reveal another hole.




Some work with angle grinder, cut-off saw & power file opened up the rear. I then made a cardboard template and transferred that to some 1.6mm plate.

Not much to weld to but spot welding with the MIG had it clinging on.



I used 'Gorilla Epoxy' to seal the top edge to the rusty edge of the outer skin, then filed/ground everything flat before using body filler to make it respectable.

Some red primer to help preserve it (for how long though) .



The outer skin doesn't look to bad now (it will need a new sticker to hide the repair, I'll be giving Simon a call).




A couple of coats of 'Toyota 3N2" from Pro Aerosols hides my sins .




I have now finished it off with clear lacquer and some edging, removed the masking tape from the handle and replaced the handle bolts with some nice shiny stainless jobbies. It looks Ok for a rush amateur job.

MOT next Monday, I'll be cleaning out the handbrake drums later today (what a rubbish system). I have checked all the lights, wheel bearings, brake hoses and so on. New wiper blades bought this morning.

We shall see.

Bob.

 

[Charlie]

New shocks, springs and discs fitted of the last couple of days.

 

[Bob]

Getting in a bit of early prep for this years summer trip. Fitted my bespoke (read: homemade) awning unit to the roof bars. The awning itself will need new material, but wanted to check how it was after 4 years in storage (No camping = sad Bob, but house move gobbled up time and funds). Doing a car boot sale tomorrow so a good excuse to stick it up

 

[BobMurphy]

My work bench is a 10ft Farmhouse kitchen table, very sturdy and large enough for most jobs. Unfortunately it is also large enough to be an ideal dumping ground for all those half-completed jobs, broken toys for repair, ice cream cartons full of bits that I can't bear to throw away and so on. Some of the stuff has been there for 10 years !
Enough. Time for a clean-out .

I came across a pair of '90' companion flanges from a Transfer box I'd re-built some years ago. They had lost their studs and Toyota don't sell them separately so the box got new flanges. These old ones are heavily grooved by dirt caught in the oil seal and I had bought a pair of 'Speedisleeves' with which to repair them.

I finally got around to fitting the sleeves. Unfortunately I didn't think about taking pictures until I was almost finished.

Each sleeve has a top-hat flange and comes with a tin cap that is used to press them on. I used my large floor press but they didn't need much force - the gauge didn't move! Once on one is supposed to snip the flange and peel it off, there being a groove around the sleeve where it separates.

On the Companion flange the sleeve butts up against the shoulder where the dust shield fits, making snipping and peeling very difficult. My solution was to put the flange into the lathe and turn the end parallel to the main sleeve. The tin flange then pops off .

The groove where it was supposed to be separated is too far back to bother the oil seal.

The result:




Here, you can see where I turned the tin flange off, leaving the separating groove in place.




With the dust shield re-fitted, the groove is well out of the way of the oil seal.




A pair of (hopefully) leak-free flanges. I don't need them at the moment so they are in the spares box.



I'll be interested to see how they perform, if they ever get used. In the meantime they represent a quick, easy and cheap fix for perpetually-leaking oil seals.

I wish I had taken pictures of them when I started as the front one was particularly badly scored and corroded. You get a hint of what is under the sleeve here:




'DiggerDave' can explain how it got to be in this state .

I used a pair of SKF 40mm (39.85 - 40.01 mm) Part No. CR99153. Mine came from "DT Seals Ltd." ([email protected]).

Also available on e-Bay here:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKF-Spee...m592b3e6992:g:cFIAAOSwB6Bc7aaM&frcectupt=true

I thought I'd post it for interest.

Bob.

 

[Josh Tagg]

Got a dreaded phone call earlier whilst en route to the gym "come back home the roof is leaking", so I shot back home and investigated. Found a bloody tile cracked, after talking to a roofer he said fill it with foam and stick the felt back up. As this is our first bought house all this DIY is a bit new to me but as the saying goes you live and you learn

 

[karl webster]

ive never heard that josh.

It wants the tile replacing.Filling with foam and sticking the felt back isnt right.

 

[chapel gate]

My work bench is a 10ft Farmhouse kitchen table, very sturdy and large enough for most jobs. Unfortunately it is also large enough to be an ideal dumping ground for all those half-completed jobs, broken toys for repair, ice cream cartons full of bits that I can't bear to throw away and so on. Some of the stuff has been there for 10 years !
Enough. Time for a clean-out .

I came across a pair of '90' companion flanges from a Transfer box I'd re-built some years ago. They had lost their studs and Toyota don't sell them separately so the box got new flanges. These old ones are heavily grooved by dirt caught in the oil seal and I had bought a pair of 'Speedisleeves' with which to repair them.

I finally got around to fitting the sleeves. Unfortunately I didn't think about taking pictures until I was almost finished.

Each sleeve has a top-hat flange and comes with a tin cap that is used to press them on. I used my large floor press but they didn't need much force - the gauge didn't move! Once on one is supposed to snip the flange and peel it off, there being a groove around the sleeve where it separates.

On the Companion flange the sleeve butts up against the shoulder where the dust shield fits, making snipping and peeling very difficult. My solution was to put the flange into the lathe and turn the end parallel to the main sleeve. The tin flange then pops off .

The groove where it was supposed to be separated is too far back to bother the oil seal.

The result:

View attachment 156617


Here, you can see where I turned the tin flange off, leaving the separating groove in place.

View attachment 156618


With the dust shield re-fitted, the groove is well out of the way of the oil seal.

View attachment 156619


A pair of (hopefully) leak-free flanges. I don't need them at the moment so they are in the spares box.

View attachment 156620

I'll be interested to see how they perform, if they ever get used. In the meantime they represent a quick, easy and cheap fix for perpetually-leaking oil seals.

I wish I had taken pictures of them when I started as the front one was particularly badly scored and corroded. You get a hint of what is under the sleeve here:

View attachment 156621


'DiggerDave' can explain how it got to be in this state .

I used a pair of SKF 40mm (39.85 - 40.01 mm) Part No. CR99153. Mine came from "DT Seals Ltd." ([email protected]).

Also available on e-Bay here:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKF-Spee...m592b3e6992:g:cFIAAOSwB6Bc7aaM&frcectupt=true

I thought I'd post it for interest.

Bob.

Speedisleeves work great, I use them on front half shafts.

 

[flint]

Found a bloody tile cracked,

As a temporary fix you could fill the crack with silicone, but as said, a new tile is needed. Foam not a good idea, it sticks like the proverbial and will trap any damp.

 

[Shayne]

Got a dreaded phone call earlier whilst en route to the gym "come back home the roof is leaking", so I shot back home and investigated. Found a bloody tile cracked, after talking to a roofer he said fill it with foam and stick the felt back up. As this is our first bought house all this DIY is a bit new to me but as the saying goes you live and you learn


Get up on the roof pull the broke tile out , nail a strip of lead to the wood under , slip a new tile it and fold the lead over it like a hook to hold it in place . Roofs are not silicone seal water tight they just allow water to run off like overlapping leafs

 

[Josh Tagg]

I didn't think it would be a permanent fixture but for now a lot better than water pouring through the roof. It didn't half rain yesterday!

 

[Chris]

Flushed the power steering fluid out. Not a job I'd done before but had been on the list for years. The fluid looked OK on the dipstick but being over 20 years old it surely needed changing. I can't recall who'd posted how they'd done it, but it involved sucking out the excess in the reservoir to below the level of the return pipe on the side. At this point I began to realise how filthy it was. I stuck some hose on the return pipe and hung it over a bowl as well as blocking off the pipe on the reservoir. I fired up the engine and let the pump squirt the fluid into the bowl. Once that had stopped I began pouring new fluid in. Eventually this pushed more old fluid out until the pipe began to run with fresh PS fluid. OK it's not perhaps the same as unbolting unions and draining it, but in terms of refreshing the fluid in under 10 mins it worked pretty well. I then topped up the fluid after replacing the hose back onto the reservoir. Trolley jack under the axle, wheels off the ground a few turns lock to lock and it was all done. The old fluid looked like tar. I suspect that this could be approached like the auto box. Purge what you can, run for a bit then repeat the process and the newer fluid will wash out the system to the point that it's as good a full replacement.

 

[Bob]

That's a job I have in my list before heading to France in a few weeks. Did it make any difference to the steering feel. I might be imagining it, but mine seems a tiny bit heavier lately

 

[Chris]

Not driven it yet Bob. I doubt it really will make a difference but I'll feel better.

 

[Shayne]

That's a job I have in my list before heading to France in a few weeks. Did it make any difference to the steering feel. I might be imagining it, but mine seems a tiny bit heavier lately

On the 90 just unbolt the pipes at the rack leave the filler cap off and let it drain , the system doesn't take much to fill so you might drain , fill and bleed 3 times with a litre bottle if memory serves though im not 100% on that , it was a while ago .

New fluid is good for the seals but i don't recall it making much difference so if steering is stiff i'd be looking at the outer tie rods or the ball joints .

 

[Bob]

To be honest it's probably my imagination Shayne..

What's not my imagination is 3 stupid rounded Allen head bolts that hold in the suction control valves in my pump. The valves haven't failed, but I have had a bit of hesitation once or twice over the last couple of months. Now it may be down to diesel quality, but I said I'd pick up a pair and put them in before heading to France to be sure. (truck is driving perfect with plenty of power for a month or more - 2000 miles or so)

So today I went about changing them. Not a difficult job... Until...

One bolt on the red valve came out ok. But the other 3 just rounded as soon as I tried to turn them with the Allen socket. Normally I'd punch in a torx or something and use some welly, but these are in a fairly tight spot, and I'm not taking out the pump... I tried a mini vise-grip but it can't get a good hold of the head. Can't drill them out, how would I get the rest of the thread out

Any suggestions?

 

[Michael Montgomery]

Not an expert Bob two options comes to mind....firstly with a shape straight edge to hit and cut into the bolt thus easing it round to release or wielding onto it with another piece depending on access and reaching ability.

 

[Beau]

I think for the amount of time and effort you'd spend getting those bolts out, you're far better off removing the pump and dealing with it on the Bench. It's not a difficult job getting the pump out. Question is, do you continue driving it until they fail, or deal with it when you have some spare time?

 

[Bob]

Thanks for the suggestions.. I'm just wary of removing the pump as I've never dealt with high pressure common rail units..

Obviously it would be an easier job on the bench. As it happens I have spare time now. I wanted to change them for peace of mind heading abroad. Hmmm..

 

[Allan M]

It's definitely worth changing them. It transformed the truck when I did mine.