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Who is doing what maintenance today?

Yeah removing the stick is very easy because the part holding it in is sat on a spring .
 
The shaft itself seems to be in two parts , or perhaps its just over engineered so flares like a skirt hiding a weaker more flexible length under a rubber insert ?
 
33530F

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Out of interest why are you bending the gearstick? There is a little bush in the end of the piece you indicated, and it wears out over time. A fix that was done by, I think Steve who used to have the red 'Fiery' 90, was what I used to solve the rattle that results from the worn bush.. drill the side and pump in industrial silicone adhesive
 
Body lift on my 80 had me cut interior trim so i could select reverse and now i have time to sort it out properly .

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Ah... I see.. carry on.. nothing to see here.
 
24 valve manual 80 stick is hardened steel by the way so it will snap before it bends , just to save anyone else trying .
 
Not perfect but it will take my weight if I put it between 2 bricks and stand on it so it’s never gonna snap changing gear

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Not perfect but it will take my weight if I put it between 2 bricks and stand on it so it’s never gonna snap changing gear
I had a completely unmodified gear stick snap above the ball and come off in my hand on my old S3 LR. It did have a tendancy to pop out of first so I was holding it in place coming down a very steep bank. That was exciting.
 
Because i wanted to turn it into a short shifter i did a fair bit of research and found a number weld fails , hence i hoped to bend it instead of cut it .

When it snapped i knew it was hardened steel which doesn't have the same ingredients as mild steel , or rather it does with extra's , so it doesn't take well to amateur welding .

All in there's about 6 hours welding shown in that stick over 2 days because i chose to weld until 2 inches glowed red ,let it cool naturally (NO WATER) . Grind it all off then weld again , over and over .

If i tried to snap it now i think it would bend instead .

Where skill fails patience wins :lol:

It was cut twice to get it exactly how i wanted , welded together then i cut a lengthways groove and filled it with weld , grind it all of turn and do it again .
 
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Bit late now could you have sleeved it after the work you have done for a bit more strength or split a tube and weld on the two halves or is would there be a clearance issue when assembled
 
Could have Steve but then i would have had to cut it again too close to weld without melting the rubber bush in the stick , it might not be obvious in the pic but its a slow curve . First cut was to bend and the second cut to twist .

And no way was i going to try tacking it where i wanted the knob to be whilst inside the truck not with near new black leather seats and having just refitted much of the dash after tarting it up with wrap and paint .
 
Another little something of nothing but apparently wrapped up like that and left overnight to soak in wd40 should rejuvenate that rubber strip for a tidier fit between consoles .
 

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Not much but fitted the missing rear light to the newly painted new bumper on the 120.

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Caused by wondering why the reverse bleeper was sounding 2 seconds before contact with Maria's Yaris.

New Toyota bumper, light and cost of repaint.
 
I ca me into contact with the Yaris in the middle of the drivers door, the wing mirror made a slight dint in the tailgate which I can live with .
Half an hour with the door card off pushed the skin out and straightened the electric window regulator and it was respectable again. It stayed like that till I sold it and the buyer never mentioned it.
In retrospect I should have attempted a decent repair with the hot stapler thing which I didn't know existed at the time I bought the bumper.
 
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