Who is doing what maintenance today?

[warrenpfo]

Rebuilt all 4 brake callipers today. Not my most favoured of jobs but it's fine now and followed up with a full bleed of the system.

The rear

Now for a drive to test it all out

 

[clivehorridge]

A brave job there Warren. First I asked myself why, then when the insides were revealed, not nice. Well done

How was the drive?

 

[warrenpfo]

Drive was interesting...The brake pedal was too spongy for my liking. She stopped but on parking up and pumping the brake pedal the brake light came on at the dash and then went off as well as the pedal slowly loosing pressure and going to the floor.

I have had a brief look and am not loosing and fluid and the reservoir has not lost a drop so it can only be that i have not bled it properly. It may be my excuse to get a speed bleeder tomorrow but will take a look in the morning.

 

[joinerman]

Don't press your foot to the floor Warren or you risk rolling a seal in the master cylinder, just press it down to around it's normal travel

 

[Chris]

Or you have roughed up the seals in the master cylinder by pressing the pedal right to floor when bleeding it. These old trucks get a polished section in the MC where the seals never reach beyond and when you bleed them, they get pushed into new territory which buggers up the seals when they come back to the polished bit.

Could be that the MC isn't fully bled of course but air in then system at the wheels has the spongy feel but not that loss of pressure. Been there, done that, had new MC. Pressure bleeding is better for these but try and get a cap that fits the Yota without it pissing fluid everywhwere. I intend to machine one up at some point.

 

[warrenpfo]

Thanks chaps, you mention bleeding the MC, is there a bleed screw as i could not find one?

EDIT that i found it.

2. BLEED MASTER CYLINDER
HINT:
If the master cylinder has been disassembled or if the reservoir
becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder.
(a) Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.
(b) Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.
(c) Block off the outlet plugs with your fingers, and release
the brake pedal.
(d) Repeat (b) and (c) 3 or 4 times.

3. CONNECT VINYL TUBE TO BRAKE CALIPER BLEEDER
PLUG
Insert other end of the tube in a half-full container of brake fluid.
NOTICE:
Begin bleeding air from the brake caliper with the longest
hydraulic line.

4. BLEED BRAKE LINE
(a) Slowly depress the brake pedal several times.
(b) While an assistant depresses the pedal, loosen the
bleeder plug until fluid starts to run out. Then tighten the
bleeder plug.
(c) Repeat this procedure until there are no more air bubbles
in the fluid.
Bleeder plug tightening torque:
11 N·m (110 kgf·cm, 8 ft·lbf)

5. REPEAT PROCEDURE FOR EACH WHEEL

6. BLEED LSP & BV

 

[yogi]

Drive was interesting...The brake pedal was too spongy for my liking. She stopped but on parking up and pumping the brake pedal the brake light came on at the dash and then went off as well as the pedal slowly loosing pressure and going to the floor.

I have had a brief look and am not loosing and fluid and the reservoir has not lost a drop so it can only be that i have not bled it properly. It may be my excuse to get a speed bleeder tomorrow but will take a look in the morning.

That may well be your master cylinder already on its way out.

 

[warrenpfo]

May be but the brakes where fine prior to the rebuild so will try another bleed tomorrow and if not successful a rebuild of the MC or maybe a new one if required

 

[Chris]

Fine prior to the rebuild but not after? Where is Hercule Poirot when you need him?

It's bleeding them that shags up the MC seals Warren. Quite happy for nearly 20 years then you bleed then and suddenly no brakes?

I have a MC on the bench here that I pulled and you can run your finger down it and feel the point where it's honed. No point putting new seals straight in unless you pressure bleed. You'll just screw them up again

 

[warrenpfo]

Ok thanks, i will give it all another go tomorrow and if no luck pull the master cylinder to inspect the rubbers and go from there, finger crossed i have not buggered them up.

Any idea how much a new MC costs?

 

[Chris]

I was lucky enough to get a genuine OEM from Milner for £50. But it was the last one.

I'm not going to suggest fitting an aftermarket MC in case someone on here has a heart attack.

 

[MisterCruiser]

@Warrenpfo - That looks like a good job you done on the brake calipers, did you have a new kit for the seals, boots, etc or did you just clean everything up and reuse your original parts?

 

[warrenpfo]

New seal kits for both front and rear but same pots and calliper housings. FYI the kits dont come with the very small washers 4 in total that sit between the two halves of the front callipers and the copper washers that sit between the bolt and brake line banjos are all in the front kit so if you just bought the rear i am not sure what they expect you o do.

Both kits where from Toyota

 

[Gary820]

No truck maintenance (great not having to constantly fix something) done some repairs to my other off roader, the mountain bike lol. New rear wheel bearings, new seals in the brake calipers as one was leaking, new brake pads, new tyres and a clean up. Ready to hit the local trail centre during the week if this rain stops!

 

[warrenpfo]

Right just done another bleed inc the MC and then i did DR, PR, DF, PF, LSV but still no improvement. I did notice an air sucking noise coming from the bottom of the MC where it bolts to the black round pancake thing. I know there is a paper gasket in there but it sucks air on the return stroke of the brake pedal. Now this might not be a problem and its not leaking fluid but just thought i would ask. I will post a clip of the noise.

 

[David]

Put 882 front springs on and new nitro charger shocks to get rid of the droop from after fitting the big bumper



Bit of help needed here to get the bottom bolt in




How it sits now

 

[Towpack]

Right just done another bleed inc the MC and then i did DR, PR, DF, PF, LSV but still no improvement. I did notice an air sucking noise coming from the bottom of the MC where it bolts to the black round pancake thing. I know there is a paper gasket in there but it sucks air on the return stroke of the brake pedal. Now this might not be a problem and its not leaking fluid but just thought i would ask. I will post a clip of the noise.

The FSM says to bleed the brakes starting with the longest line first which would be PR, DR, PF, DF than the LSV. Don't know if this is the order you did them or if it's significant but just saying. The noise sounds like it could be an air leak from (into) the servo (black round pancake thing?). The paper gasket is just a dirt/dust seal but there is an airtight seal behind this in the front of the servo. Have you tested the servo for air tightness?

 

[warrenpfo]

Have not tested the servo. How would one do so

 

[warrenpfo]

Done this and all is good so it must be the seals which I will order up tomorrow for a rebuild ASAP.

Test 1
With the engine off, pump the brake pedal to remove any residual vacuum in the booster.
Hold pressure on the pedal while you start the engine. When the engine starts, the pedal should drop about a 1/4", this indicates that the booster is working properly.
Test 2


Run the engine a couple of minutes.
Turn the engine off and press the pedal several times slowly. The first pump should be fairly low. The second and third should become slightly firmer. This indicates an airtight booster.
Test 3
Start the engine and press the brake pedal, then stop the engine with the pedal still pressed. If the pedal does not drop after holding the pressure on the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is airtight.
Inspect the Check Valve
Disconnect the vacuum hose where it connects to the intake manifold. Do not disconnect the vacuum line from the booster. Air should not flow when pressure is applied, but should flow when suction is applied. If air flows in both directions or there is no air flow, the valve needs to be replaced.

 

[moggy1968]

drained the fuel sedimenter, but the light is still on. Also the battery charge light is on although the dash voltmeter is reading good charge, even under load. Any ideas anyone?