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Who is doing what maintenance today?
- Thread starter warrenpfo
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- Mar 1, 2010
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moggy, people on here have solved your problem by cleaning the contacts on the alternator and its plug. Close them up a bit as well. I had a moment of these symptoms so took the alternator off, stripped it and cleaned it in addition to the former.
moggy1968
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- Jun 12, 2013
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I drained the fuel sedimenter but the light was still on. After doing that I had a grope round the top (ooeer missus) and found the rubber cap on top was off so refitted that. I guess thats where the water got in. After driving about 5 miles the light went off so I think the float must have got stuck. About the same time the battery light suddenly went off as well and the voltmeter went from about half way to it's normal 30 or so volts. Looks like it might be a bad connection then so stripping and cleaning could well be an option. Might be from being laid up so long.
warrenpfo
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- Jul 21, 2010
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Busy day today having striped and replaced the timing belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, thermostat, top and bottom radiator hoses and a full flush of the system.
Apart from the belt most of the parts looked original so for peace of mind I have done the above and kept the old water pump, thermostat, top and bottom rad hoses, tensioner and idler as spares given they would get me out of trouble if needed. All parts are OEM (Toyota) for peace of mind.
Here goes.....
First undo the 4 12mm bolts holding the from brush guard and slide it out to one side. Next place a bucket able to take a good 11l+ under the right side if the radiator looking from the front and undo the drain at the bottom right corner.
Next unbolt the power steering reservoir, it's 3 12mm bolts and pull to the left out of the way.
Unbolt the timing belt covers 3 10mm bolts along the bottom edge and the three clips at the top and remove.
This is what lies underneath
The idler and tensioner below
Here is the top dead centre mark you need to use to line the pulley with later.
Next crack off the 12mm retaining bolt that holds the alternator in place and undo the tensioning bolt to then swing the alternator in so you release tension on the belts so they can be removed. If you can't move the alternator you might need to crack off the alternator pivot bolt it's a 14mm bolt at the base accessed from underneath.
Here is the 12mm bolt mentioned above just above the belts
And the alternator pivot bolt pictured from below
Next I removed the top and bottom radiator hoses along with radiator cowling which is held on by 2 12mm bolt at the top.
At the same time as removing the cowling I unbolted the fan an viscous coupling and pulled it all out together. The coupling and fan are help on by 4 12mm nuts and it bolts to the water pump.
Above is the water pump which you can see and the 4 studs the fan bolts too.
Next with a 32mm socket rotate the crank clockwise to line up the TDC mark on the case and pulley.
With the mark lined up grab the belt with one hand and with a 19mm socket you can "shock" the pulley bolt loose. By this I mean wack it with you hand fast to loosen it up but don't let the pulley move.
With the bolt loose but still in place remove the tensioner and idler you need a 10mm socket and 8mm Allen key.
The belt can then be removed
The old belt still in good condition
Now remove the pulley bolt and the pulley but careful not to loos the key for the pulley
What it looks like all removed
Now you can remove the cover held on by 12mm bolts.
You can now access the water pump and it's 8 12mm bolts that holt it on
2 of the 8 bolts are 14mm actually and hold the alternator tensioner in place
Pump removed but don't forget the gasket
Next I removed the ac compressor by undoing the 4 12mm bolts and pulled it to one side do I could access the alternator and I removed that too so I could get to the thermostat. You could gain access from the bottom but I like working from the top.
Undo the 3 12mm bolts to remove the down pipe housing the thermostat
On removing the pipe you can lever out the thermostat
I now removed the bucket and grabbed the hose to flush the engine out until the water runs clear
Next I cleaned up the pipe and alu plate as it had some gasket maker on it.
Dived into the parts bin and took out what I need to put it all back together and the torque wrench
New pump going in
Some gasket sealer as required on the plate
Next bolt up the plate and install the key, pulley and bolt along with timing belt new tensioner and idler
Above you can see the new tensioner and pin that holds the piston in place until bolted in place and then you pull the pin out
After that it was time to put all the other bits back but I left out the thermostat to run a flush through the system but the light faded on me so that's for tomorrow after which I will install the new thermostat
Will post more on the flush tomorrow for those interested in the results
Apart from the belt most of the parts looked original so for peace of mind I have done the above and kept the old water pump, thermostat, top and bottom rad hoses, tensioner and idler as spares given they would get me out of trouble if needed. All parts are OEM (Toyota) for peace of mind.
Here goes.....
First undo the 4 12mm bolts holding the from brush guard and slide it out to one side. Next place a bucket able to take a good 11l+ under the right side if the radiator looking from the front and undo the drain at the bottom right corner.
Next unbolt the power steering reservoir, it's 3 12mm bolts and pull to the left out of the way.
Unbolt the timing belt covers 3 10mm bolts along the bottom edge and the three clips at the top and remove.
This is what lies underneath
The idler and tensioner below
Here is the top dead centre mark you need to use to line the pulley with later.
Next crack off the 12mm retaining bolt that holds the alternator in place and undo the tensioning bolt to then swing the alternator in so you release tension on the belts so they can be removed. If you can't move the alternator you might need to crack off the alternator pivot bolt it's a 14mm bolt at the base accessed from underneath.
Here is the 12mm bolt mentioned above just above the belts
And the alternator pivot bolt pictured from below
Next I removed the top and bottom radiator hoses along with radiator cowling which is held on by 2 12mm bolt at the top.
At the same time as removing the cowling I unbolted the fan an viscous coupling and pulled it all out together. The coupling and fan are help on by 4 12mm nuts and it bolts to the water pump.
Above is the water pump which you can see and the 4 studs the fan bolts too.
Next with a 32mm socket rotate the crank clockwise to line up the TDC mark on the case and pulley.
With the mark lined up grab the belt with one hand and with a 19mm socket you can "shock" the pulley bolt loose. By this I mean wack it with you hand fast to loosen it up but don't let the pulley move.
With the bolt loose but still in place remove the tensioner and idler you need a 10mm socket and 8mm Allen key.
The belt can then be removed
The old belt still in good condition
Now remove the pulley bolt and the pulley but careful not to loos the key for the pulley
What it looks like all removed
Now you can remove the cover held on by 12mm bolts.
You can now access the water pump and it's 8 12mm bolts that holt it on
2 of the 8 bolts are 14mm actually and hold the alternator tensioner in place
Pump removed but don't forget the gasket
Next I removed the ac compressor by undoing the 4 12mm bolts and pulled it to one side do I could access the alternator and I removed that too so I could get to the thermostat. You could gain access from the bottom but I like working from the top.
Undo the 3 12mm bolts to remove the down pipe housing the thermostat
On removing the pipe you can lever out the thermostat
I now removed the bucket and grabbed the hose to flush the engine out until the water runs clear
Next I cleaned up the pipe and alu plate as it had some gasket maker on it.
Dived into the parts bin and took out what I need to put it all back together and the torque wrench
New pump going in
Some gasket sealer as required on the plate
Next bolt up the plate and install the key, pulley and bolt along with timing belt new tensioner and idler
Above you can see the new tensioner and pin that holds the piston in place until bolted in place and then you pull the pin out
After that it was time to put all the other bits back but I left out the thermostat to run a flush through the system but the light faded on me so that's for tomorrow after which I will install the new thermostat
Will post more on the flush tomorrow for those interested in the results
Last edited:
moggy1968
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- Jun 12, 2013
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well, thats a bit wierd, both lights back on again, then off again after about 4 miles. too much of a coincidence now they both go on and off at the same time. do they share a circuit?
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MisterCruiser
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@Warrenpfo - That's a quality post you made there on the water pump and timing belt, please do post more on the coolant flush when you get time, something I must get round to doing soon. Very clear pictures aswell, fair play to you.
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- Mar 7, 2010
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Not really maintenance, more of a repair, but stripped my transfer box right down after it 'died' whilst boarding the ferry to Spain for a quick morocco trip earlier this year: found that the selector fork that moves between h & low had cracked & not allowing the cogs to properly engage, hence the horrendous graunching noises & no drive. Will rebuild this box & refit it as time permits. At least I have found the problem & there doesn't appear to be any other damage inside the box.
see thi post:!
I am sitting in a restaurant here in marracech, just finished a fantastic tajine & the first wifi for a few days, spending a couple of days here to recover from a non stop drive from calais that was only possible thanks to the hero of the day, our own Mr Webster!
I was actually on the ferry from Poole, going up the internal ramp to the upper deck when my transfer box gave up the ghost in a big way last Wednesday night.
I caused chaos as they had to turn around all the cars & caravans behind me & drag me off.
AA recovery back home, well pissed off! (At least it was dark though!)
phoned Karl next morning, he had another box on its way to me & delivered to Eastbourne at 4.30pm the same day.......absolute hero!
got it fitted on the drive straight away, but no ferris to Spain available on Good Friday, the only other option was the tunnel ( other than lose a week in morocco).
so a 2500kilometer blast in the cruiser to algecerias, ferry to tangier & here I am in sunny marracech about to start some fun off road.
thanks again Karl
Andy
see thi post:!
I am sitting in a restaurant here in marracech, just finished a fantastic tajine & the first wifi for a few days, spending a couple of days here to recover from a non stop drive from calais that was only possible thanks to the hero of the day, our own Mr Webster!
I was actually on the ferry from Poole, going up the internal ramp to the upper deck when my transfer box gave up the ghost in a big way last Wednesday night.
I caused chaos as they had to turn around all the cars & caravans behind me & drag me off.
AA recovery back home, well pissed off! (At least it was dark though!)
phoned Karl next morning, he had another box on its way to me & delivered to Eastbourne at 4.30pm the same day.......absolute hero!
got it fitted on the drive straight away, but no ferris to Spain available on Good Friday, the only other option was the tunnel ( other than lose a week in morocco).
so a 2500kilometer blast in the cruiser to algecerias, ferry to tangier & here I am in sunny marracech about to start some fun off road.
thanks again Karl
Andy
Last edited:
You did Calais to Marrakech non-stop. You're a better man than me Gunga Din, respect.
That's still one hell of a drive. When I went to Morocco I did it in three days.
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- Jun 30, 2011
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Replaced the UJ on the rear propshaft of the cruiser. Had been getting some vibration and heat in the drivetrain..
The end on the left show the worst of the problem, seal had gone in the cap, no more rollers inside. A lot of wear!
New cap on the right, ordinary used cap in the middle, on the left the cap was on the brink of failure.. Glad that didn't happen in Italy las month..
Will be doing all of my own maintenance from here, as the UJs were supposed to be greased by the mech.. not so by the looks of it
The end on the left show the worst of the problem, seal had gone in the cap, no more rollers inside. A lot of wear!
New cap on the right, ordinary used cap in the middle, on the left the cap was on the brink of failure.. Glad that didn't happen in Italy las month..
Will be doing all of my own maintenance from here, as the UJs were supposed to be greased by the mech.. not so by the looks of it
Towpack
Well-Known Member
Not really maintenance but more of an upgrade I guess. Had a dead H4 bulb on one side so decided to invest in some LED bulbs. Been eyeing them up for a while. They're 30w, 5000K, 2600LM low, 2800LM high beam and a big improvement on the Philips Extreme halogens they replaced although not quite as bright as the 35W HID's I have in the inboard main beam light units. The big plus is the beam pattern looks identical to the halogen filament bulbs, due I guess to the fact that the light source from the diodes is in the same position, relative to the reflector, that the filaments are in the standard bulbs. I've tried HID, H4 replacements previously and the beam scatter was horrendous, bordering on dangerous so never fitted them. Also the light from the LED's is instant, quicker even than the halogens and way quicker than HID's. A downside could be icing of the light lenses in very cold or snowy weather as the there is virtually zero heat radiated forwards as with the halogens and HID's but we shall see. Not particularly cheap but well worth the money IMO. Also fitted some Cree LED reversing light bulbs and these are great, throwing out much more light so you can actually see what you're reversing into! These WERE cheap.
"...A downside could be icing of the light lenses in very cold or snowy weather as the there is virtually zero heat radiated forwards as with the halogens and HID's but we shall see...."
My experience with HIDs is the same. I stopped in the winter on the motorway 'cos I had no lights, and found 2" of slush had built up on the headlamps
Hot-wash to be fitted on the H/L jets, methinks...
My experience with HIDs is the same. I stopped in the winter on the motorway 'cos I had no lights, and found 2" of slush had built up on the headlamps
Hot-wash to be fitted on the H/L jets, methinks...
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Link to these bulbs? Please
Towpack
Well-Known Member
They look the same, or very similar to the one's I bought from this UK seller:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H4-CREE-L...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
There are cheaper and even supposedly more powerful (higher lumen) kits available but look poor quality. The build quality on these is very good. The 'problem' with high power LED's is the heat generated at the base of the emitter at the back of the lamp, hence the need for the large fan cooled heat sink on the back. There are some kit's available with no fan and some with no ballasts but, after much inet searching I decided on these as they have good reviews.
Original quote BOB "Will be doing all of my own maintenance from here, as the UJs were supposed to be greased by the mech.. not so by the looks of it."
Looking at that UJ, it's been a fair while since a grease gun has been clamped onto that nipple.
I had the same problem with my service shop, and they're normally very good. Gave them a row for letting my front/front UJ go dry. Caught it just in time...
Looking at that UJ, it's been a fair while since a grease gun has been clamped onto that nipple.
I had the same problem with my service shop, and they're normally very good. Gave them a row for letting my front/front UJ go dry. Caught it just in time...
Beau
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- Jan 28, 2011
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Original quote BOB "Will be doing all of my own maintenance from here, as the UJs were supposed to be greased by the mech.. not so by the looks of it."
View attachment 14806
Looking at that UJ, it's been a fair while since a grease gun has been clamped onto that nipple.
I had the same problem with my service shop, and they're normally very good. Gave them a row for letting my front/front UJ go dry. Caught it just in time...
Looks like some wear you've got there! Good thing you caught it before it got more serious.
Since Birth I've always greased the UJ's twice a year, cheap maintenance really, doesn't take a lot to push the old grease out. Be careful with the long prop one, it can be easy to over grease.
