Window rubber grease

[Lexie]

Which grease for the rubbers works best lads..

Thanks

 

[StarCruiser]

Complete replacement along with the mechanism. Rubbers are around the £30 mark each from Amayama and mechanisms around £80 each from Milners. Chris has done a write up. I've done everything to try and make mine better. Replacement rubbers only goes so far.

 

[Chris]

New motors work best. Once the rubber has gone hard, you can't really bring it back. You can pull them out and soak them in hot water, give them a clean and even try a bit of glycerine on them, but you're only postponing the inevitable. They might not even come out in one piece. If your windows are struggling then the motors are probably already a gonner. Worth noting that even in this very cold weather we're having, my windows are still whizzing up and down with ice on them thanks to the replacement mechanisms.

The window glass does run in the rubbers, sure but if you pull them out and operate them up and down, you might find them really slow despite not having the seals in there.

The motor has this little pinion gear that engages in the quadrant rack. Over the years the rack wears, the bush that the pinion shaft sits in also wears so that when you operate the motor there's so much play that it all binds up. Greasing doesn't change that I'm afraid.

 

[Chris]

Yep, what Rich said. Don't buy the motor, buy the whole mechanism. It's strangely cheaper.

 

[Lexie]

Just looking for grease type, got a small sample off a guy and made a dramatic difference.

 

[StarCruiser]

Well when you find it Lexie, do let us know as it would be great to find a cure for this particular trait of the 80 series. I've got loads of Ballistol and the seller's video on youtoob makes it look like a miracle cure but all it did was make my truck stink and I couldn't ope' the windows to let it out either.

 

[Towpack]

Any silicone based grease/spray will give a temporary improvement in window performance but that's all it is, temporary. Don't use any petroleum/oil based products. Grease especially just attracts dirt and debris particles and makes the issue worse over time. I used Halfords silicone rubber lube before I bit the bullit and fitted new rubbers.

 

[StarCruiser]

Tried that too TP. That rubber and nylon lube they do is good stuff mind.

 

[Lexie]

Wish i took a video before... window went down 3 to 4 inches then ground to a hault and needed a helpin hand.

Now goes up and down quiet well by itself. Vast improvement.

Granted grease wont solve the problem but the difference is day and night and if it needs a little clean and regrease in 3 months so be it

Edit.. got the name of it, its .. Honda Shin-Etsu

 

[StarCruiser]

Nice Lexie, as here but expensive according to one buyer.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/271430119116
Gotta be worth a try. Thanks for posting.

 

[Lexie]

Like i said my windows struggled 4 inches then stopped now they are workin well.

From what i gather its designed for window rubbers and seals

I used cotton buds for getting it right in to the rubber

 

[Ben Stratford]

3 of my windows go up and down fine in warm dry weather but struggle to go down half way in damp cold weather. Why is this?
Does the damp affect the motors?
Cant easily get spares as its a 60. Can motors be refurbed?

The drivers door had a new motor and flies up and down in all conditions. All have old rubbers. Drivers door mech runner and small plastic wheel all greased when new motor fitted but nothing done to rubber.

 

[Chris]

If you sort the rubbers before the mech is knackered then fantastic but most are too far gone by then
I’ve tried to fix motors (it’s the gears not the motor) and I got nowhere all I could do was take a pile of busted ones and swap bits to make the best out of them
The worn bits just couldn’t be fixed
And for the money it’s not worth it

 

[Ben Stratford]

If you sort the rubbers before the mech is knackered then fantastic but most are too far gone by then
I’ve tried to fix motors (it’s the gears not the motor) and I got nowhere all I could do was take a pile of busted ones and swap bits to make the best out of them
The worn bits just couldn’t be fixed
And for the money it’s not worth it

Thanks Chris, suspected that!!
Another costly order to cruiserworld needed then. But with plans to remove the back seats to allow more storage at least the rear windows no longer matter.

 

[StarCruiser]

Thanks Chris, suspected that!!
Another costly order to cruiserworld needed then. But with plans to remove the back seats to allow more storage at least the rear windows no longer matter.

I don't suppose there's any chance they are the same as the 80 series ones?

 

[StarCruiser]

3 of my windows go up and down fine in warm dry weather but struggle to go down half way in damp cold weather. Why is this?

I think it's that the rubber relaxes below the glass when the weather is warm and hardens in the cold, so the window glass struggles to push the sides apart as it goes down.

 

[David]

Funny enough my trucks windows are a lot faster since the Krown guy sprayed inside the doors

 

[Ben Stratford]

I think it's that the rubber relaxes below the glass when the weather is warm and hardens in the cold, so the window glass struggles to push the sides apart as it goes down.

Didnt think of that Rich. 24 Volt motors so 80 motors no good. Some parts off a 24V BJ74 fit but difficult to get.

 

[StarCruiser]

Didnt think of that Rich. 24 Volt motors so 80 motors no good. Some parts off a 24V BJ74 fit but difficult to get.

If it's just motors that need refurb then try Robson and Francis. However, if the gearing is worn like Chris has found then thats clearly not going to help. R&F could almost certainly rewind a 12v motor for 24v or a series resistor of the correct value could be inserted to give the motors correct voltage and current draw.

 

[Towpack]

The motors pull around 5A or 60W. That's one hell of a resistor to to get the required voltage drop/current. Better of using a couple of small 10A 24-12v converters.