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10 with AHC...

uHu said:
Pretty sure your pressure is too high at the rear. New coils would fix that.
Up front, well, you have cranked the torsion bars, but hard to tell. One test you kan do is to but it in Low, then let the rest of the pressure out of the front bleeders to see how low it goes. From what I've seen, the front should go down to the bump stops, but only just. So you could crank the TBs until it is just over the stops, and then lower a bit again. If you are comfortable with doing the Active Test, you could just manually lower the front to the bottom instead of using the bleeders. Active Test works only up to m.y. 2003, or thereabouts.

At the rear, it should stop at about one small inch over the bump stops with zero hydraulic pressure. (Then, if it sits at, say, 1 cm instead, you could just lower the rear height to 1,5 cm under spec to compensate, and get the pressure right)

If your pressures are high, then new/adjusted springs could give you a bit longer life for the globes, and increase the fluid difference with a grad' or two, and thereby give a smoother ride, maybe.

All this is very non-scientific, - a distillation of observations on the garage floor, but confirmed by actually checking the pressures over several years.

Very educative :thumbup: ....I am much more comfortable with the bleeders than the Active Test :? so I will try that tomorrow....so, by lowering the front + bleed will make it possible to crank the TB's even more than I already did?

At the rear, in your theoretic example, the car would be lowered 1,5cm as a final result? -by adjusting the sensor position, that is?

I will see if I can confirm your non-scientific observations on the floor of my garage ;)
 
Lars Bo Kjeldstrom said:
....I am much more comfortable with the bleeders than the Active Test :? so I will try that tomorrow....so, by lowering the front + bleed will make it possible to crank the TB's even more than I already did?....
Might not, but it will make it possible to actually see the tension of your TBs without measuring the hydraulic pressure. Then, if you find out that it lowers hard on to the stops, you could crank them up a bit until it just touches the stops. Or you might have to lower a bit, if it doesn't go as low as (close to) the stops.

Comment: Active Test is easier than bleeding, and faster, if you have done it once.
See here: http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-crui ... ost1815560 and other posts in the same thread.
 
...uHu ston, we have a problem!!!

I tried to do the Active Test :roll: ...NG...I was not able to make the AHC "OFF" indicator flash....

After connecting (made 2 diff wires just in case)

Ignition on

Push HSS 5 or more times within 5 secs.......no flashing, repeted, closed doors, closed my eyes, held my breath ...nada :oops:

Did the less technical option....bleeded the front and lowered completely. Then bump stops were really close, in fact left side (drivers side :cool: ) was more than close.............look below:

DSC_0019.JPG


I was not able to crank the TB at all.

The right side (girly side :shifty: ) was showing a little distance. Here I was able to crank the TB 3 revs (mind you I cranked them both a week ago, both 3 revs!)

DSC_0018.JPG


Could it be that I should have some HD TB's to help lift the W&B?

Afterwards I raised the car to normal, but looks to me like the left TB is not helping/lifting enough?
 
The old problem - these cars are heavier on the left.
Do yo mean that the left TB is at the end of the threads?
If yes, then either re-index it, or change.
The ahc is not helping with left-right lean, except for when driving and you turn the st.wheel more than 30 deg.

If your cruiser is manufactured after a certain date, it doesn't have the active test feature. I think the date is 8/2002, but I can't find it documented right now. (It was the Down button you pressed 5 X ?)
 
Okay, heavier on the left -and not referring to my weight I hope :x ...

Yes, it is necessary to index it, I guess ...but I did see the thread on that once, on mud!

A friend of mine changed his TB's for HD. He has a 98' TD LE. Could it be that the TB's were weaker/thinner in the first years? My "crank bolts" are 30mm -and as IIRC from the TB-thread they were smaller dimension!?! (not 100% sure!)

Mine is registered 4/2001 (not checked the man.fact. date)

Yes I did push the down button, if it is the one you use to lower the car!

-and thanks for your replies :thumbup: I appreciate it a lot ...
 
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