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120 Series Suspension Upgrade...

Sam

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Dec 12, 2011
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506
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The single best investment you can make upgrading a 120 is toughening up the suspension...
I cant remember who said it because I've literally read hundreds of pages of stuff over the last few weeks - but it sounded kinda plausible to me. Loading it up to the max and finding lots of bumps to play on through the pyrenees isn't exactly the same kind of action Mr T had in mind for the school run mum - I'm guessing.

So, armed with this insight, off I went to the electric interweb to start learning.

Many dizzying hours later, and after a somewhat surreal detour into emu farming, I'm here to ask for your opinions.

I'm yet to fully understand the benefits of lift.. there seems to be a lot of debate about the issue for a 120.. if nothing else there just isn't the same "damn sexy looking" benefits you get with an 80/90/100.

So I'll start simple. If I want to make it tougher should I look at taming an Emu?
 
Many options here to play with - especially on an LC3 or 4 as you've got springs all round.

OME is always a good bet, but expensive. I run ToughDog / King Springs, but expensive. You may want to investigate Bilstein / Koni shocks on either IronMan or OME springs? Depends very much on what you want and what your budget is - do you want masses of travel? Or load-carrying ability? Or just a better ride? Or just a 50mm lift? Will you ever go with a winch bumper and winch? Bigger tyres? Sliders?? All adds weight that needs to be supported ...

You should also consider going with slightly softer rear springs and fit poly air bags from Firestone or similar to aid in load-carrying when you want it without altering performance too much (i.e. no harsh ride when you have no load).

HTH

Cheers
 
I put OME springs and shocks on all corners and fine the ride a bit harsher. The OEM shocks absorbed missing tar, small pothole etc while the OMEs let you know. There is a lot less wallow though (good thing) and turning in corners has a lot less roll.


(dyslexics, please note the difference between OME AND OEM and not to be confused with EOM which is a town in Denmark)
 
I would recommend the OME kit as does transform your vehicle, it will firm up the factory suspension ride and will reduce body roll to more like a normal car.

The other advantage is that you can correct any permanent weighting changes such as a winch and winch bumper will add nearly 100kg to the nose and this can be correct by the right spring selection, conversely if you run fully loaded all the time you can select springs accordingly.

You will need to talk to TBR as they are the uk importer.

They are expensive, the kit is about £1k and my local Toyota dealer fitted them for about £250

Do not try and fit the springs yourself, unless you have a serious spring compressor. Some of the other members I know have bent their compressors trying.

You will also need to get your tracking done at the same time and it is good to check it again after a couple of thousand miles once the suspension settled.

You will also need to tell your insurance company as you have now modified your vehicle, so your insurance will go up too for good measure!
 
Well you really have to also throw West Coast 4x4 into the ring also.

Foe a 50mm lift, springs and shocks,
Fitted in a mornings work at WC 4x4 for a princley sum of around £495.00

iT SOUNDS A STEAL.
And no dirty or cut knuckles either.
Them boys up Southport know their way around tha Land Cruisers blind folded.

Gra.
 
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I also note nobody has explained the benefits of a lift kit, these are typically:

Improved ground clearance for the belly and improved break over angle (eg top of a sand dune or bank)

Improved approach and departure angles (bodywork clearance at the front and back when going up or down a ramp)

They can improve the space the wheels have for articulation on rough terrain

They can lift the door seals, axle and box breathers a couple of vital inches on river crossings
 
Thanks for the tips chaps - I'm off to speak to the Emus.
 
AndrewT said:
I also note nobody has explained the benefits of a lift kit, these are typically:

.....

They can improve the space the wheels have for articulation on rough terrain

They can lift the door seals, axle and box breathers a couple of vital inches on river crossings

On the IFS the extra droop you get up front is fairly limited if you only do a 2" lift, and anything else you start get harsh angles on CVs etc, and may need a diff-drop, which will then lower the clearances again ... For the rear, on the beam axle, yes, there is a benefit, But if A-TRC or lockers are not working, it isn't going to help a lot, really.

I'd also extend the breathers on the diffs, trfr and cog-box if you were going to do a lot of water-based excursions - I have, simply for peace of mind. I'd not want to rely on a measly 2" lift to keep breathers out of trouble, even though they're supposed to close-up and prevent ingress of water etc.

And I do think a lifted 120 looks better than a standard one!

before:

IntheSnow.jpg


Then (not a good photo really)
DSC00187.jpg


Some travel in the back
DSC000361.jpg


and more articulation
DSC00238-1.jpg


And droop-limit up front ...
DSC00239.jpg


Note that the tyres went up a notch, from 265/65 to 265/70 Coopers, with miles more tread-depth than the standard Dunlops ...
 
wow - thanks for the time and info Gary...

I agree.. looks a lot better than I thought ;)

Am I right in thinking yours is lifted 2" by an emu then?
 
No worries. Will check before and after measurements up front on Saturday, when the ARB Sahara bumper and winch go on - I expect it'll drop a bit :cool:
 
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