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24v vs 12v 80 series ...

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These are the only set I've ever changed. They are out of my first 80 which I'd had since 2 years old.It was a 95 12V. I changed the oil every 4.5K and used semi synth. These came out at 148k. TBH they were good enough to go back.
This is identical to my experience with my shells looking good enough to go back in.

Mine spent its first 60,000 or so miles in Japan so had Japanese oil and would have had around 90,000 mikes on UK oil. Isn’t it to do with the UK oils having something in them that was not present in the Japanese oil that reacted with the shells causing deterioration?
 
Any signs on the 24v shells Dave? I know other people have done this as a precaution and some time back, one set did show signs.

Very slight marking only, no real wear to be honest - I suspect if we'd not changed them they'd still be fine now.
 
Well, there does seem to be legend, myth, mystery and lies on this subject. The story WAS that it was all about oil and the difference between EU based spec and Asian spec oils. The calcium or magnesium (whatever) was being leached out of the white metal. From my background in metals I can tell you that this is entirely plausible if not actually the case in this instance. It goes on to say that Toyota recognised this and changed the specs of the shells and it was no longer an issue hence the 24 valvers not suffering. Some people have debunked this theory in more recent times, but it matters little. Any 12v that hasn't been changed that comes to live on my drive will have the BEBs done before anything else.

If and I say IF the story about oil spec were true, probably the worst thing you could do would be to change your oil more regularly. As the metal dissolves into the oil, the concentration goes up and leaching would presumably slow down. Fresh oil would therefore be more aggressive.

Hey, I dunno. Without some accurate oil analysis it's all supposition. But something caused it that's for sure and now it doesn't. End of. Someone did post some actual facts once IIRC.
 
mine at 150,000 miles.
cruiserbearings001.JPG
 
Obvious point (I think?) 12v suffer this, 24v don't (as much). Cant see the engine head/valve amends making any difference so it must have been a change in the manufacturing at Yota (or their suppliers). My gut feel is the oil thing is a red herring, and it was actually a manufacturing defect that MrT doesn't want to recognise/admit?
 
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