80 series gullwings rear windows

[Chris]

It's unfortunate, but even if they were combination locks, if someone wanted to get in they could use a battery angle grinder or a hammer, cordless drill ...

This is about the casual scrote and opportunist scumbag. Any determined bugger will get in and probably not with a master key.

 

[StarCruiser]

True. The locks on my Shogun were no match for the thieving -----s that stole my Shogun. I suppose the window rubbers could easily be cut out if so desired. I figured it was just acceptable but it's not just down to me. If the majority are ok with it, that's fine, I've done my bit by pointing it out.

I'll progress the order. The other thing, at £160 ish it's a huge chunk of the budget. I was wondering about making them in 4mm steel, as welding will be easier for things like hinges as they don't do them for ally and they will be stronger, possibly needing only one catch. After all, the car doors are anchored with just one lock and I could put strengthening pieces across the back easily as they will be part there anyway.

Again, views please.

 

[Chas]

Steel and only needing one catch would be a better option maybe.

 

[Chris]

Now don't take this the wrong way dear chap, but if I'd wanted them in steel, I'd have made them myself. It's the fact that you were offering them in aluminium that had me interested. I can't TIG ally you see?

Nope that doesn't mean I am pulling out. No. But it's a major point for discussion. Now whilst the outer frame needs to be the same thickness as the original glass to fit the rubbers, but it doesn't mean that the flap has to be does it. I'd say 4mm steel plate for the main panel would deflect small arms fire. That could be much thinner and as you say with strengtheners across the back they would be very strong indeed. One catch is fine with me, but I'd like it to lock (pull in) at two points and be easily adjustable for wear etc. The two locks gives you that with ease. If we go to one lock and it saves money but is secure and won't get the wind behind it on the motorway, it's good.

 

[StarCruiser]

I'm quite keen on doing them in ally, for many reasons. I'm pretty sure there's a way and yes, 4mm steel is A Team territory and weight is an issue. Just making sure I'm heading in the right direction is all.

 

[Chris]

Well you have our sincere gratitude for making the effort that's for sure. So, it's the hinges that cause the problem is it? Ferrous to non ferrous.

OK so could we - rivet them? No reason at all not to use that time honoured method. OR being a bit more modern, what about special adhesives? More than glue, but bonding them with the right thing would be easy and no holes.

 

[stumog]

have alook here there is lots to choose from. they do some very strong plastic hinges aswell.
http://www.wdsltd.co.uk/categories/68/hinges

 

[Chris]

Once again, a super find Stu. Tell you what, I think plastic would be perfect. I like the ones with the bonded studs. If and I say IF I ended up making my own because SC's head explodes, that's the way I'd go. No corrosion, perfect operation, easy to fit and replace, tough, easy to fit, smart - what's not to like?

 

[Chris]

That's a cracking site Stu. Never seen them before. Bookmarked for sure. Their latches are cheap! They have gas struts and all the hardware too. All that's missing is the ally sheet.

 

[stumog]

I am a engineering buyer for Rolls royce chris. My spend is over 1mil a year so i should know where to get the right items......

 

[Chas]

Way to go, we now have RR involved in this and I don't mean R*ver.

 

[Chris]

Ahh I always wondered what you did Stu. I knew it was for RR but didn't know that they paid you to flick through catalogues all day for a living.

Had to drive to Solihull today. Thought about hinges all the way!

 

[StarCruiser]

How awful for you. …[emoji53]

 

[frank rabbets]

Araldite sticks anything to glass especially if you just rub the glass with 500 grit paper first. I had a 2 year old car and the interior mirror fell off . I fixed it back on with araldite. After 5 years of being in the sun it was just as strong. I broke the windscreen and when the fitter and I pulled on the interior mirror in the end a square piece of glass came out of the screen with it. I had to saw a piece of the mounting stub off just short of the glass.

 

[Chris]

We're not sticking anything to glass Frank. But thanks for the tip. We're taking the whole glass out and replacing it with aluminium which we will stick with special molten aluminium glue.

 

[StarCruiser]

That's if we can find any flipping all ally hinges. I can only find ally and steel. And all Land Rover owners know what happens with that combination. [emoji22]

 

[Chris]

Did you not fancy the composite ones? I thought they were perfect. I'd certainly fit those myself. Dead easy. No rust, no electrolysis and no welding. One side sits on the window and the other on a small pad to compensate for the depth of the window bit.

 

[StarCruiser]

I'll have a look.

 

[StarCruiser]

Ok, here's what I've been doing today.

I've now mocked up the whole door in hardboard and timber.
Please excuse the crudeness of this as I haven't had a chance to paint it or complete the CGI interpretation or 3 D CAD drawings ([emoji6]).

First thing to say is that I knew the hinge mechs were wrong but I bought them a while back and I wanted to see just how wrong they are. Reasoning bring that they were readily available BMW parts and took care of the gas strut as well. I now know that I need to go with my plan 'B' for the hinges, which is external ones mounted at the top above the door seal line.

Other things to ignore are the braces across the back of the door, and the extension to the door template (I started with too small a piece of hardboard at the time [emoji36]). The door will just be a piece of ally with a curve to match the LC body, possibly braced with an internal frame of ally angle.

The obvious downside to these BMW boot hinges are that they cut down the available opening, and would dump any and all water into the compartment if opened in the rain. Not good. Plan B sorts this as the door tilts inwards by a few mm at the top on externally mounted concealed hinges, depositing the water around the top of the seal.

Photos so far.

Extending the door template to be the correct length.


Door extended and braced with the curve of the bodywork.



Cut out done, installing the seal.



Seal fitted, spare left for refitting to finished article.



Assembled and mocked up on a supporting board. Ignore the 4 bolts through the door, they are just for mock up.



Side view, showing from right to left, door, seal (black) frame that matches the glass, rear attachment frame for the attachment of the compartment (again mocked up with a bit of timber, would be 4mm (or so) ally all round.



Door open showing just how much the hinge mechs drop the door.



Underneath view, with hinge mechs.



And again.

As can be seen, the hinges are too restricting, they also foul the door into the frame on one side so they're for going back on EBay.

Not a complete waste of time though as mocking it up this way allows me to try different parts out. For instance, I cut the hatch hole too large for the seal to sit right, but with 4mm ally on edge instead of the 1/2" timber on the back, this should not be a problem.

Hopefully this gives an idea of the sort of thing I'm aiming for. It's fair to say I've not given myself an easy ride here, but then I never do!!

 

[wangjjang]

Might be interested in this. Recently almost placed an order for a single wing from http://www.emuwing.com.au/products/80-series-land-cruiser/ but i couldnt bring myself to pay the quoted shipping on top