80 series stub axle upgrade

[AndyCook]

I use copper slip on my bashplate bolts
what other grease would one use for bolts like that if not copperslip?

 

[Chris]

I wouldn't grease them. But if I did, I'd just use grease. Proper grease for greasing things.
As I said the grease in Copper slip is not good grease. In fact I don't know if it's even grease at all. It's just a carrier for the copper fines. To be heated and melted away.

Everyone is of course free to use whatever they wish, especially if it works for them. I'd just hate to see someone grease up a wheel bearing with it thinking it was something special.

That's all. Not a one man crusade against the stuff. If I was doing an exhaust manifold, I would be slapping it on all over.


Chris

 

[Ecoman]

I agree with you there Chris, if its a bolt or nut then you can't beat good old grease to stop it seizing. Copper slip has its uses in extreme heat applications such as manifolds where ordinary grease would just burn away and be of no use.

Julian, I hear what your saying about it rotting out rubber seals and I know that can be an issue when someone slaps it about like they are icing a cake but when I use copper slip I put a very thin smear on the back of the pads and on the ends where its metal to metal contact. If the rubber seals were to come into contact with the grease then it would be such a small amount that its doubtful it would do much damage to the seals and even if there was, the damage would be picked up at the next service and rectified.

I would never use it in an area like the rear caliper sliders as it would rot the seals. The best thing to use there IMO is a silicone based grease.

 

[Chris]

Rots rubber? Strewth I didn't know that. True evil then.

Chris

 

[BobMurphy]

I use copper slip on my bashplate bolts
what other grease would one use for bolts like that if not copperslip?

I've started using 'Optimol' which comes in two grades:

Optimol T - White paste.

Optimol TA - Anti-sieze paste (looks like thick silver paint).

I get it here:

http://www.motobins.co.uk/displayfinal.php?q=Optimol Paste&s=1

BMW use the 'TA'; I find it on my motorcycles. Its difficult to remove from your hands so has very good 'cling' properties.

Its supposed to be better than 'Copper Slip' on clutch splines as it doesn't get flung about.

Bob.

 

[Julian Voelcker]

Julian, I hear what your saying about it rotting out rubber seals and I know that can be an issue when someone slaps it about like they are icing a cake but when I use copper slip I put a very thin smear on the back of the pads and on the ends where its metal to metal contact. If the rubber seals were to come into contact with the grease then it would be such a small amount that its doubtful it would do much damage to the seals and even if there was, the damage would be picked up at the next service and rectified.

Some people get a bit slap happy with it - I have a truck here that has been relatively well maintained, however all the callipers will need the seals replacing because the have rotted.

Once the seals start to go it doesn't take long for the rust to start.

 

[Ecoman]

Well its now official....I'm now totally skint till next month. So its beans on toast till then!

I didn't realise when you bought the HDK Birfields that you also had to buy the hubs to match. I went onto Milners and I saw a note on the parts description and so I rang up to enquire what the meaning was and was told that the web was correct and the ABS type Birfields needed the updated hub too if the vehicle was manufactured before 1994. So that added an extra £60+VAT to the cost of the parts.

All in, with all the parts I will/ may need it has just come to £422

Aah well at least it will be done and I will have piece of mind

 

[Brett]

Out of interest, how much are Milners charging for the HDK CV's?

I imported mine from Australia before Milners started doing them.

 

[Ecoman]

They are £69.60 inc VAT each for the ABS type

 

[Ecoman]

All my bits turned up about 20 minutes ago. How is that for service, 24 hours after I ordered and they arrive at my door.

I now, hopefully, have everything to rebuild my front hubs. Pending disasters and possibly needing stub axles etc, there is nothing stopping work commencing. So, hopefully I will get it started on Monday (I need the LC on Sunday for my 4x4 Response training).

Fingers crossed and thanks for the tips and advice

 

[adrianr]

Well done fella - good luck with the work!!

 

[Chris]

When you say 'hubs' did you mean drive flanges? Not sure why anything else would be different.

Get ready with that paper towel buddy. And we expect an epic photo shoot worth of one of Ben's posts.

Chris

 

[Ecoman]

When you say 'hubs' did you mean drive flanges? Not sure why anything else would be different.

Get ready with that paper towel buddy. And we expect an epic photo shoot worth of one of Ben's posts.

Chris

Thanks Adrianr. After recently finding out that the last person to do work on the brakes had omitted to put sealing washers beside the banjo bolt but instead had opted for the "horse it up till it stops leaking" approach, I'm a bit worried what I'm going to find

Yes thats the part Chris. Toyota describe it as "Flange Front Axle Outer Shaft" but yes as it is splined I'm assuming its a drive component. I take it the HDK Birfields are the sames as the ones fitted to the 1994> 80s and this was the only component different?

I have charged my camera ready for a few pictures of the work. I will try to remember to take a series so I can do a write up but as has happened before I get so engrossed in the work I forget.

I have a whole roll of blue towel at the ready so hopefully I won't run out

 

[Ecoman]

Well thats the job done, 4 whole days in the workshop and I completely forgot to take any photos

Thanks for all the advice guys. It was very much appreciated.