80, which year is best?

[4x3Steve]

i just re-red my post, i ment i thought 24v were not as good as the 12v
but tuning will be something i will be doing, as i have tinkered with the hilux i have now, 24v it is then. so back to this gearbox thing

so its a 80 4.2vx 24v auto? lol

 

[Chris]

Sounds like the 24 volt, early 91 manual (3 speed) with the fourth row of seats and cooled cup holder is the one for you. For sure.

Choices choices.

You know the best 80 out there? Manual? Auto?, 24 valve?

It's the one that has good body work, clean chassis, pulls well and stops dead. And is blue of course.

They're all great. Different but great. Finding one in worthy condition is the trick. Forget spec, buy the first good one that you see. Honestly. Time is running out to be too choosy. Andy L and I looked at an R plate together. If the chassis had been for sale on is own I'd have bought it. But it had been crashed and nothing lined up. I have seen L platers with immaculate interiors and paint peeling off. P plates where you could tear lumps out of the chassis with your hands. A good one is a good one. End of story.

I have a 12v auto and a 24v manual and frankly if we did a drag race, I'm not sure which would win. A well running 12v is a heck of a thing.

Hey I could charge for test drives!

 

[karl webster]

I agree with Chris.
Whatever 80 you buy as long as its solid and good and engine etc is good you can't go wrong. If running gear is a little tired ie suspension bushes ect I wouldn't be to concerned as most change these bits anyway.
the choice is simple a auto or manual.
If you want leather etc this can be bought after.

 

[Dave2000]

I have never had the opportunity to race a 24 valve but have raced against someone's 12v auto and although mine was quicker there was not much in it, probably three to four cars lengths over a 1/4 mile? Both had similar 200,000 ish miles on the clock

On one occasion I had the needle of the speedo hitting the trip reset button, how accurate that was I do not know but the old 12v oil burners can move if pushed. of course I am bragging here and would never REALLY do that speed..........

Ah....perhaps that's how I broke the transmission

regards

Dave

 

[hopeless wanderer]

Sounds like the 24 volt, early 91 manual (3 speed) with the fourth row of seats and cooled cup holder is the one for you. For sure.

Choices choices.

You know the best 80 out there? Manual? Auto?, 24 valve?

It's the one that has good body work, clean chassis, pulls well and stops dead. And is blue of course.

They're all great. Different but great. Finding one in worthy condition is the trick. Forget spec, buy the first good one that you see. Honestly. Time is running out to be too choosy. Andy L and I looked at an R plate together. If the chassis had been for sale on is own I'd have bought it. But it had been crashed and nothing lined up. I have seen L platers with immaculate interiors and paint peeling off. P plates where you could tear lumps out of the chassis with your hands. A good one is a good one. End of story.

I have a 12v auto and a 24v manual and frankly if we did a drag race, I'm not sure which would win. A well running 12v is a heck of a thing.

Hey I could charge for test drives!

I second that about the blue ;-)

 

[clivehorridge]

I second that about the blue ;-)

 

[4x3Steve]

excellent replies guys, all good advise, and well worth saying, altho no forum stranger i am a total cruiser virgin, so its all good info for me, ok so one last question, unless its a weird spec they all come with front/rear/cent lockers

 

[karl webster]

Only uk spec.

if you go with a 24valve auto you wouldn't get lockers.