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A different approach to 80 series front axle rebuilds. Really?

Yes I an Clive, the stub axles were in a bit of a mess but they should be good now. I've been using these for years, especially on HGV rear axle cases but I have used them on other things.
( I think this tangent needs transfering to my other thread about the Trol.)

Andy

I think it fits the thread Andy, what more "different approach to rebuilding an 80 front axle" can you get, than rebuilding a trol front axle! :lol:
 
Not a great deal of detail to relate on this one, but I'll keep it rolling.

I was going to reuse the bearings in the wheel hub as they really did seem perfect. But as I cleaned the races down I spotted some erosion in one of them. A bit like BEBs. So I raided the spares box. One side had Timken bearings in and the other were unbranded. I hate odd things like this, it offends me. So I tapped them all out and put new ones in plus new rear seals. All went without a hitch including lathering them in my new Extra Heavy Duty bearing grease. Always felt that the commonly available greases like Comma were more like Vasaline than bearing grease.

Schlep the grease in.JPG

All new gaskets, thrust washers, locking tab washers etc and everything was back to normal. Managed to get the rear diff in this morning too. Damn that was a struggle. It really didn't want to go in. Locker all assembled on the bench so the unit went in as one.


Hub rebuilt.JPG

All three lockers fire perfectly now. The rear one slams in. It'll be quieter when I get the oil in there but given the appalling weather outside now, not sure when I'll get to that. I want to get the pops onto the bench too and give them a proper clean and inspect before putting them back on. When it's warmer, the brakes will get a full check over back and front, but they work so well, I think that all they really need is a cosmetic clean up.
 
Got the wheels back on today and went for a trundle to my local tyre shed to check the alignment. I swapped all for track ends and although I measured them before I swapped them out, I figured it still needed doing.

Hah. All measurements in the green would you believe. The steering wheel was off centre though so they did that. They loosened the lock clamps and turned the steering rod by hand. They were impressed. Camber has changed and the tyres are pretty much vertical. They said this wasn't a surprise given the gargantuan tyres and track. It only just fitted on the lift! Drives very nicely in the corners. But the front diff (I think) is really quite noisy. Before there was no diff whine on or off the power. Now there is. A lot. Both diffs felt really good when I selected them to go on and have had new bearings etc in there not that many miles ago. I'm not sure what causes that noise but wondered if a different oil might make a difference. Running EP90 in both ends. Might 80/90 be better? When I say noisy, I don't mean comparatively, I mean like MOD Landrover noisy.
 
Always felt that the commonly available greases like Comma were more like Vasaline than bearing grease.

Not alone in that thought. Silkolene Pro RG2 is my favourite. :thumbup:
 
I do like the new brake rotors Chris, it's time mine were changed...:think:
 
Not cheap. £180 from memory. They're from Nitrac. I have had them so long there was moss growing on them. Rob had some at the same time so might be able to give a longer term performance review.
 
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Just an observation Chris, I know you run trick birfields and shafts, any reason you don't have the 4030 drive flanges?
 
Check the oil level Chris. I had this after spending 1500 hours rebuilding a car in 1980. I remembered putting in the oil and checking the level..........but I had not put any oil in!!

Frank
 
Frank, trust me I really didn't forget to put the oil in.

This diff was noisy in the car it came out of too. JW gave it a full check over and I think we had new bearings etc in there too and it's still whiney. It feels like silk on the bench.

Rog, err 4030 drive flanges? Huh? Eh? What?

Only got Longfield CVs not the shafts btw.
 
Protocol Chris. Rule number one = check oil level. I clearly remembered putting oil in, that's the really weird thing. I misunderstood your post as you had said no noise before. When I took my drain plug out of said car paraffin steam came out! It was noisy ever after. I put a mixture of EP 90 + 5% molyslip. The car did 130,000 miles in Switzerland with the same dif so although damaged it lasted.
 
Sorry Frank unintentional mislead there. Diff wasn't noisy because it was a completely different diff. As per the thread really in gearing down for the 35's
Point of the question was really to find a solution to a noisy diff if it's not the bearings pretty load or wear
Which begs the question why the **** is it so noisy ? Would different oil or an additive make a difference
I think on a long trip this might make me crazy.
 
It's a while ago now but that one got new bearings, JD solid spacer, pattern was good according to my notes. If the bearings felt ok then either the contact is bad now for whatever reason or the gears are worn/damaged. Bring it back, or find someone who knows what they're doing :shifty:
 
Jon it's done nothing in terms of miles and as I said before looks and feels top notch. Just don't know why it's so noisy. The ring an pinion set have done less than 70k from new
Potential run to Scotland this weekend might swap the oil first and see if it's better at all.
Only way it's coming out is when new cvs go in
 
Ear defenders would be much more effective than different oil. Thinner oil would be louder. They can be very noisy if the gear surfaces have been scuffed due for example by using wrong oil, or no oil as in my case.
 
Grrr. Thought you might say that Frank. I do have another one but as I know it's not going to explode or anything, I shall live with it for the second. Real shame as the 3.7's that came out were whisper quiet.
 
I supposes as a temp you could use a really heavy weight oil like a 140 - or am I way out fellas?
 
It must be "EP", for hypoid gears, and I don't think they go up to 140. Or it must be one of the new oils which are not labelled "EP" but the text on the bottle says "suitable for hypoid rear axles".

Years ago sawdust did a very good job until the new owner found out.
 
Frank, I don't have any sawdust. Would cat litter work instead?
 
Crickey, described as "fluid chassis grease". I have some 140 grade oil and it IS like thin grease! I don't know if it would be suitable for Chriss' dif. I don't like straying that far from the factory recommendations. It is described as EP but it is a big step up in viscosity.

I think finding the cause of the noise is better than trying to cover it up.
 
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