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A few questions for you knowledgables on here on my new purchase???

P.S i don't think my cable was too far out for long just stuck out due to a kink in the cable or gumming up i hop its not damaged the box :cry:
 
a dark grey colour
I've seen this before in the transfer box in a Hilux & it was water contamination.The auto box is plumed into the main rad & this can rot through.a good idea to check it by looking for contamination in the coolant at the same time
 
I've seen this before in the transfer box in a Hilux & it was water contamination.The auto box is plumed into the main rad & this can rot through.a good idea to check it by looking for contamination in the coolant at the same time
Thanks for that does anyone know the correct capacity I have handbook which says 2lots drain to fill yet I have just removed 4.5lts
 
Thanks for that does anyone know the correct capacity I have handbook which says 2lots drain to fill yet I have just removed 4.5lts

Just a tip, if you are re filling down the dipstick tube invest in a garden sprayer ( the pump up type) take off the spray head and put the hose down the tube and pump it up, the thinking mans way of doing it.
I don't know the capacity but I'd change it two or three times bit not before I'd got a remote cooler fitted otherwise you're wasting your time (if the rad cooler is porous that is)
 
Just a tip, if you are re filling down the dipstick tube invest in a garden sprayer ( the pump up type) take off the spray head and put the hose down the tube and pump it up, the thinking mans way of doing it.
I don't know the capacity but I'd change it two or three times bit not before I'd got a remote cooler fitted otherwise you're wasting your time (if the rad cooler is porous that is)
Good advice there Andy as it did take me ages dribbling the fluid in with a farty little tundish pipe and jug:thumbup:
 
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Search roughtrax kzj90 or 95 whatever oil and google should take you to their page that gives service intervals and fluid capacity

In fact its the same page for both so here you go http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/blog/land-cruiser-kzj90-kzj95-1996-2002-vehicle-specifications/
I'm seeing 2 lts drain sump only? but as previous i managed to get 4.5lts out dont know if it makes any difference but my drive is very steep would this have extracted more fluid or surely it couldn't have been 2.5lts overfull:?
 
If it fits in it will go in , maybe the last owner had a steep drive to . Jack the car up to change oils if you can't park flat .
 
Ok will thanks Shayne one last one the glow plug light on the dash stays on for one second only and I can hear the relay click off at the same time surely it should stay on longer I will be testing the glow plug feed tomorrow again any inof very much appreciated
 
Ok an update i managed to sort the steering out ie 45psi in nsf tyre and 26psi in osf and rear tyres :shock: set them all to 29psi and what a difference hardly any pulling to the right and much less figity :icon-biggrin: As for the gearbox i checked the level after filling back up with 4.5lts it goes to show that draining on an incline will empty more than 2lts aka the hand manual!! I still need to check the kickdown if anyone can advise?? as previous there is hardly any rubber boot left on mine to measure from :icon-sad: And to the starting issue i primed the fuel filter as advised which made no difference but saying that i don't know whether its priming as no difference in pressure was felt when priming:? so next job/s is to drop the tank and inspect then fit a transmission oil cooler thanks again all for the advice and info please keep it coming :text-thankyouyello:
 
IMG_20181127_150840.jpg


Sorry for the delay or if the pic is a bit big. That's what my cables look like at the engine end. I reckon that there is enough slack that the if you press the box inner cable in the centre of the span between the adjuster then there is about 2 to 3 mm deflection before it feels like there is tension to pull the inner cable. I don't recall ever adjusting this cable only disconnected at the box end however the auto box specialists (Suffolk Automatic Transmissions - who really knew their stuff and seemed very thorough) probably have set it as it is now (or at least checked it) about a year ago. If you want any other pics or measurements then please feel free to let me know.

Glad things seem to be sorting OK so far for you.

My Toyota Owners Manual states.
Coolant Diesel Auto with rear heater 11 litres.
Coolant Diesel Auto without rear heater 10 litres.
Toyota Long Life Coolant.
ATF Dexron II / Dexron III
Up to 2.0 litres for a drain & refill.

Roughtrax claims 10.1 litres from a dry rebuild. A full flush would be best. There is some Oz method on forums (probably prado point) where it is done by disconnecting the cooler hoses and pumping old out while sucking new in by starting the engine. You will see the colour change and will likely need more than the 10.1 litres as you will waste some in the flush. Without it operating you won't get it all out of the converter or the valves or other nooks & crannies.

Edit: I barely notice my glow plugs going on but it starts fast on first turn of the key. Just over 215,000 miles. Temps currently 5 to 10C here.
 
Ren thanks again i will adjust my kickdown tomorrow and see how we go forgot to mention i put a live feed to the glows plugs for a few secs and this made no difference so i presume/hope its down to fuel drain back somewhere :crazy:
 
Did you try the hand priming by repeatedly pressing the button on the fuel filter housing until hard like one of the other members suggested?
 
Did you try the hand priming by repeatedly pressing the button on the fuel filter housing until hard like one of the other members suggested?
Yes thats exactly what i did but not resistance was felt??
 
No resistance does suggest a fuel line leak being a high probability with the pipes from the tank corroding being quite likely or blocked tank pick up filter as earlier posters have suggested but others owners have had issues with porosity of the filter head too although this seems much less common.
 
No resistance does suggest a fuel line leak being a high probability with the pipes from the tank corroding being quite likely or blocked tank pick up filter as earlier posters have suggested but others owners have had issues with porosity of the filter head too although this seems much less common.
Thanks i will hopefully get to investigate tomorrow :thumbup:
 
Just an afterthought my drive is very steep which cannot be helping if as you say there is an air leak or drain back:cry:
 
Just an afterthought my drive is very steep which cannot be helping if as you say there is an air leak or drain back:cry:
Wouldn't let the slope bother you. Liquid will run downwards regardless of the slope without a vacuum and the tank is as far as it will go. The real cause is where the problem is. If it's a blocked pick up filter it may not make much difference. If it is a hole or leak then air will still get in and fuel get out. Hopefully your investigations tomorrow with go smoothly and show you the best long term solution.
 
These hand primers are pretty bad especially after couple decades uses. They won't draw any fuel if air is in the line very well therefore you won't feel any resistance.

Best bet I reckon is to put a clear line on the return side and visibly see if air is in the system after start up.

Regarding the temp gauge, could you be more specific to where the needle is? If it's visibly moving from the low side to the middle this could indicate a failed thermostat or just none there. What does the condition of the coolant look like? What type of smoke out of the back?
 
My hand primer gets well hard but it's a1999 & who knows whether it's been replaced at some time or not. Beau's knowledge on these vehicles is waaaay better than mine so learn from it as I do. The only other thing I could think of is an immobiliser fault but I'm not sure if yours would have one or not as I'm not sure when they were introduced. I had an intermittent immobilizer fault which thankfully hasn't been an issue for quite a while but the symptoms were a failure to start although it cranked over fine. Giving up removing the key and then trying again it would usually start no problem - I suspect the reinsertion of the key caused it to reattempt to read the transponder in it.
 
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