A few questions for you knowledgables on here on my new purchase???

[cbv8]

Hi All,
I collected my new purchase today bought blind off eblag i know a thing you should never do but was quite a way from my house so asked as much as i could before purchasing anyway here we go. 1, The car has starting issues ie will turn over about 20 times on the key until it fires it has has new glow plugs and there is power getting to them? 2,On the 90 mile journey back the temperature gauge hovered between the lower end of the gauge when driving around 40mph and then rises to almost the middle of the gauge at 70+ but never higher is this normal i checked the coolant which was up to the level? 3, I noticed the kickdown cable was stuck out on the throttle cam after spraying the cable end with wd 40 it has freed off how do i adjust the cable should the crimped bit stop on the threaded end or should there be a gap? i then checked the trans fluid which is a dark grey colour it didnt smell burnt just oily if that makes sense just hope it has no cooked the box And finally the steering wheel is off centre to the left and pulls to the right all the tyres are nearly new except the ofs front the ride was figity which i hope is down to tyre pressures being too high other than these faults/niggles the car drove great with no smoke or loss of power any help or advice very very much appreciated

 

[diggerdave]

The temperature gauge sounds normal. First port of call for the steering issue is get the tracking checked. I can't help with the auto trans.

The starting problem is quite likely to be a hole somewhere in the fuel line, which allows air into what should be a sealed system. This allows the diesel in the line to flow back into the tank, which means that when you start you are effectively re-priming the system each time.

Simple check: next time you come to start it after it's been left a while, lift the bonnet and manually prime the system using the primer above the fuel filter - if it starts straight away (rather than taking 20 turns as normal) then that's your problem.

You may be able to see a leak, but the usual place is where the fuel and return lines enter the top of the fuel tank (it's a grot trap) and if you can't see an obvious leak then it's probably there. You have to drop the tank on these (which can be tricky with all those corroded bolts to deal with), but at least the part is a separate part - on my old Trooper you had to buy a new tank!

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

Hi All,
I collected my new purchase today bought blind off eblag i know a thing you should never do but was quite a way from my house so asked as much as i could before purchasing anyway here we go. 1, The car has starting issues ie will turn over about 20 times on the key until it fires it has has new glow plugs and there is power getting to them? 2,On the 90 mile journey back the temperature gauge hovered between the lower end of the gauge when driving around 40mph and then rises to almost the middle of the gauge at 70+ but never higher is this normal i checked the coolant which was up to the level? 3, I noticed the kickdown cable was stuck out on the throttle cam after spraying the cable end with wd 40 it has freed off how do i adjust the cable should the crimped bit stop on the threaded end or should there be a gap? i then checked the trans fluid which is a dark grey colour it didnt smell burnt just oily if that makes sense just hope it has no cooked the box And finally the steering wheel is off centre to the left and pulls to the right all the tyres are nearly new except the ofs front the ride was figity which i hope is down to tyre pressures being too high other than these faults/niggles the car drove great with no smoke or loss of power any help or advice very very much appreciated

Buying a Collie blind, bravest guy on this forum.
Still Chas, there isn't anything which can't be mended. I've not much Collie experience with things going wrong but fundamentals say get that trans looked at, anything thats not clear red isn't good. Any Toyota Cruiser should start easily at any temp so there's something amiss there. I had a D4D but had no issues so I can't help there.
I hope you looked underneath and checked for rust issues and found it satisfactory.

 

[cbv8]

The temperature gauge sounds normal. First port of call for the steering issue is get the tracking checked. I can't help with the auto trans.

The starting problem is quite likely to be a hole somewhere in the fuel line, which allows air into what should be a sealed system. This allows the diesel in the line to flow back into the tank, which means that when you start you are effectively re-priming the system each time.

Simple check: next time you come to start it after it's been left a while, lift the bonnet and manually prime the system using the primer above the fuel filter - if it starts straight away (rather than taking 20 turns as normal) then that's your problem.

You may be able to see a leak, but the usual place is where the fuel and return lines enter the top of the fuel tank (it's a grot trap) and if you can't see an obvious leak then it's probably there. You have to drop the tank on these (which can be tricky with all those corroded bolts to deal with), but at least the part is a separate part - on my old Trooper you had to buy a new tank!

Thanks for that Dave nice one i will check what you suggested tomorrow

 

[cbv8]

Buying a Collie blind, bravest guy on this forum.
Still Chas, there isn't anything which can't be mended. I've not much Collie experience with things going wrong but fundamentals say get that trans looked at, anything thats not clear red isn't good. Any Toyota Cruiser should start easily at any temp so there's something amiss there. I had a D4D but had no issues so I can't help there.
I hope you looked underneath and checked for rust issues and found it satisfactory.

Hi Andy,
Thanks for the advice i think the first port of call is to replace the trans fluid asap i just hope "brave" dosent turn into stoopid

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

If you have got away with it invest in a remote cooler and have a Trans shop do a full flush, not just a change of fluid. It will cost more but it might just save your bacon.

 

[cbv8]

If you have got away with it invest in a remote cooler and have a Trans shop do a full flush, not just a change of fluid. It will cost more but it might just save your bacon.

I agree a separate cooler is the way to go but first things first to get the fluid changed asap i presume dexron II?

 

[nick_the_fish]

I know it's a simple thing, but if its pulling to the left check your tire pressures. It might be as simple as low pressure. You can check the inside tread of the front tires which, if they are more worn than the rest of the tread, could indicate your tracking is off.

Good luck. Can we see some photos?

 

[cbv8]

I know it's a simple thing, but if its pulling to the left check your tire pressures. It might be as simple as low pressure. You can check the inside tread of the front tires which, if they are more worn than the rest of the tread, could indicate your tracking is off.

Good luck. Can we see some photos?

Hi Nick,
Thanks for that its pulling to the right and the steering wheel is off centre to the left sorry to pedantic but it does really bug me

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

I agree a separate cooler is the way to go but first things first to get the fluid changed asap i presume dexron II?

I don't know what the exact spec is, I always use the stuff we use in the trucks and its had no adverse affects. I'll have a look tomorrow and see what it is.

 

[BobMurphy]

As DiggerDave says, your starting problems sound like a hole in the fuel line.

The usual place is in the steel pipes that come out of the top of the tank, they rust like this:

You may also find that the sock filter on the end of the pick-up pipe looks like this:

A new pick-up assembly saves all the hassle of repairing old, rusty parts. Note that the fuel level sender unit is separate :

Bob.

 

[cbv8]

As DiggerDave says, your starting problems sound like a hole in the fuel line.

The usual place is in the steel pipes that come out of the top of the tank, they rust like this:

View attachment 151607


You may also find that the sock filter on the end of the pick-up pipe looks like this:


View attachment 151608


A new pick-up assembly saves all the hassle of repairing old, rusty parts. Note that the fuel level sender unit is separate :


View attachment 151609

Bob.

Thanks for that Bob a picture speaks a thousand words quite frightening how they rot out

 

[cbv8]

I don't know what the exact spec is, I always use the stuff we use in the trucks and its had no adverse affects. I'll have a look tomorrow and see what it is.

 

[ren]

It's Dexron II but some others are OK as long as they meet or exceed the spec although whether it's worth paying extra is up for debate. Eurocarparts still have 50% off with the "BLACKFRIDAY" code at the checkout if ordering online or for click & collect just in case it helps. My auto transmission had a brake stick about a month after I got it near the end of a long trip meaning it could not reverse or change up out of lower gears in drive. I took the valve body out and found that one of the valves had stuck and another was not too free in movement. In my case I dismantled the VB and cleaned up & freed up everything (with copious pics of the VB for reassembly) but the brake damage had already been done & my efforts did not fix that so I had a full rebuild of the box. As you can imagine I would strongly recommend the preventative fluid change but maybe also remove the VB to check valve free movement & signs of water contamination. My fluid was a decent colour but there was evidence of paint coming off the springs in the VB which may have caused the stickiness of the valves and this may have been from a PO water contamination issue. A fair bit of hypothesizing in there but prevention is better than cure. As far as the
My Collie has the Northern Spec / Winter Pack so it has the heater fuel filter and my temp guage goes up very quickly to just below mid & stays but bear in mind these are normally damped guages with resistors so owners don't get scared of a wavering temperature guage. Yours may have been modded to give a more genuine reading so you get more warning of a real problem.
If you want me to take a photo of how my cable's are then let me know but I may not get the chance to until Tuesday. If my brain is working correctly I think yours will have the cable throttle and the cable to the valve body on the gearbox. Later ones very shortly after mine were more electronic.
Separate transmission cooler will definitely give peace of mind. I asked the transmission place I went to about it and they said they pressure checked the cooler built into the radiator and it was fine and also looked good condition and as I didn't do too much towing and it wasn't too heavy work so not to bother. They did give 12,000 mile 12 months warranty and presumably wanted to protect that. I still wonder about doing it anyway.
Good advice from the other members re the fuel pipes & pull.

 

[cbv8]

Ren thanks for the advice very much appreciated if you could take a picture of the cable it would be a great help i plan on replacing the trans fluid today sometime and do hope the box has not suffered too much thanks again

 

[ren]

My wife has a Daihatsu Auto & her ATF was a bit black at just under 100k miles. I periodically drained and flushed and around 15000 miles later it still works great. Hopefully your box is OK. I just mention it as I wouldn't want anyone else to have the issue I had if it was preventable. I will endeavour to take some picks but if I don't post up by Tuesday evening do feel free to give me a nudge.

 

[cbv8]

My wife has a Daihatsu Auto & her ATF was a bit black at just under 100k miles. I periodically drained and flushed and around 15000 miles later it still works great. Hopefully your box is OK. I just mention it as I wouldn't want anyone else to have the issue I had if it was preventable. I will endeavour to take some picks but if I don't post up by Tuesday evening do feel free to give me a nudge.

No rush i presume you mean the kickdown cable? do you know how to adjust the cable ?

 

[ren]

No rush i presume you mean the kickdown cable? do you know how to adjust the cable ?

I thought you meant the kickdown. The box end is not adjustable but only the engine end. I think I have a doc kicking about somewhere on my laptop. It may even be in manuals linked on this site. I'll take any pics I can legally get at.

 

[ren]

OK this this the best I can find at the moment. It is the A340E manual for Supras which is basically our box but without the transfer case. They refer to the cables as "accelerator" connected to the pedal & "throttle" connected to the box. Page 19 shows the adjustment of the throttle for the box but from the troubleshooting notes I think you would have other issues if yours was too far out. http://www.supras.org.nz/techinfo/TSRM/15_AT.pdf
I'll still take the pics of mine anyway.

 

[cbv8]

OK this this the best I can find at the moment. It is the A340E manual for Supras which is basically our box but without the transfer case. They refer to the cables as "accelerator" connected to the pedal & "throttle" connected to the box. Page 19 shows the adjustment of the throttle for the box but from the troubleshooting notes I think you would have other issues if yours was too far out. http://www.supras.org.nz/techinfo/TSRM/15_AT.pdf
I'll still take the pics of mine anyway.

Thanks Ren that's brilliant but unfortunately the rubber boot on mine is no more with only a little bit of it remaining so i have nothing to measure from unless you know the length of the rubber boot?