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a few questions

McLean Racing

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Jan 8, 2014
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uk
Hi guys, just a quick one, on a colorado, is the clock supposed to be backlit or not (as mine isnt)?

Also, im getting no sound from my drivers front speaker, have tried another speaker i know works and still nothing, it has an aftermarket cd player fitted, is this a common thing or am i gonna have to go chasing wires?

Also, when running the standard 265/70r/16 tyres ( Bridgestone Dualers ) what sort of tyre pressure would you guys recommend, the car only see's the road, ive been putting 28psi it looks like too low pressure to me?

And lastly

on the rear load bias valve, it seems all the way pushed in on mine, is this normal? I.e. when u wiggle the lever it moves up and down freely with no resistance.

Many thanks
 
Last edited:
Yes, your bulb has probably blown.

Is this common? Yes, all Colorados have broken driver's side speakers, the factory deliberately cut the wires under the dash :laughing-rolling:

Chances are you've got a broken/disconnected wire or the headunit has had it.

I ran about 34psi for hardpack tyres on mine.
 
Yes, your bulb has probably blown.

Is this common? Yes, all Colorados have broken driver's side speakers, the factory deliberately cut the wires under the dash :laughing-rolling:

Chances are you've got a broken/disconnected wire or the headunit has had it.

I ran about 34psi for hardpack tyres on mine.

Lol what i meant by common was that ive had some cars were fitting an aftermarket unit has meant sometimes the rear speakers havent worked, i just didnt know if this was common on a LC and i needed to swap some wires round or something lol
 
There's two bulbs in the clock , they are 1.2w capless that go into the green twist fittings. It's up to you whether you put the green caps on them. Can be gotten in any factors

As for the speaker, I have seen some aftermarket stereos hacked into cars, so most likely a wire misplaced at the back of the head unit. Colorados are so easy to work on for this though. No common fault that I know of.
 
The wiring on my 80 is a complete mess due to the negligence of POs.

The "trusted" auto electrician I used to replace the audio system in my truck, said he'd never seen such a bodge as the installation he removed. Consequently, for the first time, I'm pleased with the sound coming from mine and I'm more relaxed that the truck is less likely to catch fire (again :icon-rolleyes:).
 
Rite, 2 new bulbs in the clock and thats all sorted..... got the headunit out and had a poke around the untouched wiring loom and it turned out to be the aftermarket ISO converter lead has a broken wire, so ive sorted that now. Thanks for the advice guys.

just need some more info on tyre pressures and the rear brake load bias valve if you please. Muchos gracias :)
 
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I run my tyres at 35 psi empty, and if I'm carrying some heavy stuff I'll up it to 40... Can't be of any help on the load bias I'm afraid.
 
34psi. I was running it at 30psi and have seen an increase in mpg, i reckon at least 32 needed.
 
I run 34psi (empty) too. 32psi generally in normal cars.
 
Your brake load bias valve sounds like mine, and that might be correct behaviour. I've read that the rod inside the valve will be extended by brake fluid pressure when the brakes are activated. The external lever and spring push back against the rod, and the resulting position of the rod determines the brake bias.

Of course, I read about it on the Internet, so it might be wrong. :icon-biggrin:

Regarding tyre pressure, I started out with the recommended 28psi but that seemed mushy on the road. I went to the other end of the scale, 38psi, and it's a lot firmer but a bit harsh on rough roads. I'm going to drop it down a bit and see how that goes.
 
Cheers for the info guys. I too was running the recommended 28psi and i always felt that seemed low. Ive raised it to 35psi now and it feels much better on the road, i may even go up to 38psi and try that

Dave, what your saying seems consistant to what ive seen on my bias valve, altho the rod doesnt tend to push out too far, unless i have air in the system and need to bleed the system through??? Brakes seem ok but i have had a few "O SHIT!!!" braking moments were my foot has gone to the floor and the ABS hasnt kicked in lol i think i may need to bleed it lol
 
When running as high as 38 it's worth keeping an eye on the tread in the centre of your tyres. If over inflated it will balloon out and wear prematurely. I'm not sure if 38 unloaded is quite high enough for this to happen though.
 
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