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Aircon struggling

I thought that was the point of having aircon in the UK given it's not very often it's hot enough to need it for cooling :lol:
 
Just in case anyone is unaware, you can use the aircon in winter with the heating on to rapidly dry the air in the car and de-fog the windows. Works a treat.

our subaru turns on aircon automatically when blowers set to windscreen mode
 
.... The condenser and dryer joints are the first place I'd look for leaks on an 80 as so many have needed new o-rings and cleaned up joins there. Mine needed one new pipe and new o-rings but could really have done with another pipe changing but a bit of sealant did the job :icon-cool:
Just had a look on ToyoDIY and can't see the 'O' rings listed Jon.... any idea where I can find the part numbers?

Might be worth me getting any remaining gas vacced out and then replacing the 'O' rings before getting her refilled....
 
You should be able to pick the O rings up from any air con specialist or parts supplier. Our local place gave me a selection of them in different sizes FOC when I bought a new condensor from them but they can't cost that much to buy.
 
AFAIK Toyota don't sell the o-rings on their own, you have to buy the pipe and those come with the o-rings fitted. I bought a box of assorted size aircon o-rings and that covered the sizes I needed. The joints themselves were a bit oxidized and in need of a clean and polish.
 
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Hi Bat
You probably now have UV dye in the system after your recharge. If you look in the sightglass you will see a green oil to confirm. You will be able to check for leaks with a UV torch. I bought one off ebay and it was stunningly efficient. My problem was a corroded pipe along the bulkhead behind the engine. Time perhaps to recondition the aircon system. If there is no dye you may have to waste a recharge cost. But then you will be able to see the leak. After that strip all the joints and check them and change the o rings. The dryer will need changing so if the condeser may as well be changed if it looks old. Also change corroded pipes. The one at the back of the engine is prone to corrossion and also the joints on the front parts.

Frank
 
Did you know chaps that there is a fusible plug on our compressors to avoid cooking the pump if the other overheating safegurds fail? It is on top of the pump and looks like the top of a bolt with a hexagonal head.

Frank
 
Hmmmm :think:

Okay, I think a recharge with UV dye and a good checking over with a UV lamp is needed..... just been pricing these pipes up :wtf: not cheep are they.... one of them looks to be around £400 :doh:
 
You may have UV already. Many places just put it in as a matter of course on a recharge. I spent about £300 on a bulkhead pipe, drier and condenser. Best to recon the whole thing and it should last years. Also you don't have the annoyance of no aircon all of a sudden.

Frank.
 
Where did you source the bits from Frank, a genuine condenser looks like it's around £600.

Yes suddenly loosing the aircon on one of our Morocco trips would be a real 'spoiler' :doh:
 
My mechanic that did the air con got the condenser from Euro Car Parts, I was there when they delivered it. I cant remember how much it cost, it all came to about a grand with new condenser, 2 genuine pipes, drier, system flush and brand new Denso compressor.
 
Toyota don't make their own condensors. I got a 'genuine', as used by Toyota, condensor for £150 from Autorads in Sheffield so there must be other suppliers who can offer similar.
 
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I got my pats from a place in Birmingham but they are not parts suppliers. A friend knew them so they did me a favour.

Jon's parts seam OK.

Frank
 
As mine is a 1992 model it used to have the now banned R12 gas, the drop in replacement now being R426A.

If I'm going to do a major overhaul, might now be a wise time to move to the newer R134A gas? If so what parts will I HAVE to change to drop this gas in?

I'm guessing the parts Jon has listed for the 93> model will 'physically' fit my system, but it might mean replacing the compressor too if I want to move to the later gas?
 
As mine is a 1992 model it used to have the now banned R12 gas, the drop in replacement now being R426A.

If I'm going to do a major overhaul, might now be a wise time to move to the newer R134A gas? If so what parts will I HAVE to change to drop this gas in?

I'm guessing the parts Jon has listed for the 93> model will 'physically' fit my system, but it might mean replacing the compressor too if I want to move to the later gas?

Bat21,

Sorry, I am joining the conversion a little late.

I have a 1991 LC VX (HDJ81) and I am having similar issues like that ones described in this thread. I imported the vehicle into Mozambique with the intention of taking it back to the States when I left Africa.

A few weeks after it arrived in Mozambique, the AC started to fail. So I took it to a Swiss mechanic and he sold me a the R134A conversion. His conversion kit was about ~$100 USD and included the gas and oil and some additional replacement parts. After about a week the AC stopped working but my console fridge was working great. I also noticed freezing pipes like in the pictures you posted. Also my AC controls don't work. The AC runs all the time, regardless of the temperature sliding control and the AC button position.

So I took it back and he fiddled with it. It would work for a while then fail again. I repeated this a few more times. In the end it works but not well when it is hot outside. I decided to let it be until I got back to Texas. At the moment my LC 80 is on its way to the States. So I am hoping to get the AC straightened out. I gather from the posts on this and other forums that the oil from the AC conversion has likely gummed up some of my AC components.

But I can't figure out the AC control issue. I am wondering if you ever solved ours. Did you have to replace the AC compressor/clutch on your vehicle? Also what advice do you have regarding my conversion issues?
 
Hi Bat, it sounds to me like you could have some sort of blockage, possibly moisture in the system freezing in the expansion valve. The cure is to recover the gas, change the filter drier, flush with dry nitrogen, Put it on vacuum for a minimum of an hour, ideally longer, then weigh in the correct amount of gas. The continuous running sounds odd though and could point to a relay with welded contacts or too much gas not allowing it to cycle on pressure. A proper refrigeration engineer should be able to sort it out for you. I expect you'll find one or two in the states. :) just get a good one that works on anything not just vehicles or at least one that's recommended.
 
Hi Bat, it sounds to me like you could have some sort of blockage, possibly moisture in the system freezing in the expansion valve. The cure is to recover the gas, change the filter drier, flush with dry nitrogen, Put it on vacuum for a minimum of an hour, ideally longer, then weigh in the correct amount of gas. The continuous running sounds odd though and could point to a relay with welded contacts or too much gas not allowing it to cycle on pressure. A proper refrigeration engineer should be able to sort it out for you. I expect you'll find one or two in the states. :) just get a good one that works on anything not just vehicles or at least one that's recommended.

StarCruiser - Ok. When I settle on an engineer I'll relay your advice. Thanks.
 
StarCruiser - Ok. When I settle on an engineer I'll relay your advice. Thanks.
It's one possible, and always tricky diagnosing from afar but if the guy is any good he should tell you before you tell him.
 
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